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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 3:42 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 19, 2014 7:39 am
Posts: 52
I built a kayak cart for storing my Hobie based on pics I saw here on the forum.
What other goodies do you guys have for me? Anything and everything - tackle, anchors, line, ice boxes, mounts, decorations, trolling,sails, etc etc.

Let's see 'em. Cold adult beverage to the best DIY pic posted (we'll figure out how to drink it one of these days).


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 3:59 pm 
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I made a carrying handle for my Torqeedo battery..
Does that count? :lol:

Image


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 6:29 pm 
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Here's a cart modified I did when I owned a Pro Angler. Made moving it so much easier. It centered the cart so the kayak was equal weight front and back.

viewtopic.php?f=78&t=47290&hilit=Cart


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 12:57 am 
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So this is the rod holder i made up. Used ideas off what many others have done but wanted mine to go around the back of my "vittles vault style" live well.

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My livewell has two outflow tubes (the ones to the rear) because initially the bottom one would do the trick but upgraded pump and needed more outflow so added the top one. hoses are because the i watched a guy with the hobie livewell outflow running into the rear well area and the 8" hatch leaked and he almost sank it so i am avoiding th seal failing and ran em out of the yak. the pump suction cups to the side/bottom of the yak. i may switch out to the scupper style pump but for now this one does great. Keeps my opelu (slimy mackerel i think) alive and they are super fragile.

Image

Image

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 6:05 am 
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In addition to be totally awesome, it also looks like something from the Blue Man Group... :)

Nice work, amigo.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 10:57 am 
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Cool rod holders,how did you flare the pipe??


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 8:47 pm 
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Well ya see the wife is a wino.... lmao wine bottle worked for me, same can be said with a beer bottle or any other glass bottle (just to make sure you don't melt the two together) a few videos of how it is done but the basics are use a heating device (torch/heat gun) and heat up the area to mold. just be careful to not over heat it. with the flaring, it is quite easy to not mess it up.
That is 1 1/2 " PVC as i use offshore rods with bigger butts on them so need the room but then you run into the hobie rod holder holes are just a bit smaller than that so i just heated the end up and forced it in. This is a bit trickier but not much. Just heat enough of it up to fit down into the hobie hole and give it a twist while shoving it in. the balance between too hot (will kinda squish out instead of going into the hole) or not hot enough (pushing in but not getting anywhere) is the most delicate part. once again youtube is a great source!

I will say the best feature, and one you don't really think about, is that "Union connector". That was something used by one of the you tube videos and if you put everything together and were to glue it there would be no easy way to get the rod holders back out. the angle of the hobie rod holders point back and out so the PVC would be locked in there unless you really pulled apart on it. The rest is just making it work around my livewell. I gotta give 90% of credit to the folks that have done all this before me and shared the info with all of us! Mahalos!

It gives me room to put 9 things in there and that for me on a normal outing is 5 rods, the lil bat, a light, and then my gaf and Kage. There is room in front of the livewell for my battery to go (currently a jetski size batter to run the livewell all day) and should be big enough to put a normal size trolling motor battery in a box there.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 9:21 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2014 9:32 pm
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Location: Hillsborough, Nj
Before I built a Harbor Freight trailer for my PA12, I car-topped the Hobie, and I needed a stand to get it off the garage floor when working on it.
The stands that you see at every Kayak Dealer cost well over $100 depending on the type. I took some measurements at the Dealer's and went to the local Home Depot.
I spent a little over $30 for 1½" PVC pieces; had some cement and a can of red spray paint at home, so a couple of hours of "work" solved the problem... and it really works well! It's strong enough for the PA12.
I had a couple of carpet pieces laying around, so I tie-wrapped them on to prevent the possibility of scratching the bottom of the hull. The black is simply electrical tape to "snazzy" it up a bit!
So, a length of PVC, 4 elbows, 8 "T"-pieces, and 4 end caps.... That's it!
Everything's (PVC) cemented together, EXCEPT I didn't cement the elbows where they connect to the vertical pieces.
The elbows however ARE cemented to the horizontal (carpeted) pieces. I press the elbows onto the the vertical pieces when I want to use the stand. This way I can disassemble the stand flat and it takes up much less space.

Image
Image

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"A wet bird never flies at night"


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 8:45 am 
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Nice work!
Amazing what a little ingenuity and PVC pipe can accomplish. Not to mention some snazzy electrical tape... ;)


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 10:23 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 01, 2009 11:59 am
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YOu might like to review this site as well. It will cover more than Hobie Yaks, but a lot of good ideas that will also work on your yak. Good Luck

<http://www.texaskayakfisherman.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=53&sid=fc73c3e256eee272a74eeeb7e174e1c0>


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 6:37 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2012 11:35 am
Posts: 247
Location: Ogden, Utah
Here's a quick and cheap anchor trolley setup. I used hardware store pulleys (for freshwater only) and some household copper wire. Just bend the wire around the handle bolts and tighten. Voila!

Rear:

Image

And front:

Image

Complete with some rope, short piece of bungee. and two carabiners. Two carabiners allow you to clip your anchor or drift chute line to the one closest to the pulley for almost straight-on tension.

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Pro Angler-14 owner


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 4:21 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 11, 2015 7:20 am
Posts: 24
Location: Malta
NINCO1 wrote:
Before I built a Harbor Freight trailer for my PA12, I car-topped the Hobie, and I needed a stand to get it off the garage floor when working on it.
The stands that you see at every Kayak Dealer cost well over $100 depending on the type. I took some measurements at the Dealer's and went to the local Home Depot.
I spent a little over $30 for 1½" PVC pieces; had some cement and a can of red spray paint at home, so a couple of hours of "work" solved the problem... and it really works well! It's strong enough for the PA12.
I had a couple of carpet pieces laying around, so I tie-wrapped them on to prevent the possibility of scratching the bottom of the hull. The black is simply electrical tape to "snazzy" it up a bit!
So, a length of PVC, 4 elbows, 8 "T"-pieces, and 4 end caps.... That's it!
Everything's (PVC) cemented together, EXCEPT I didn't cement the elbows where they connect to the vertical pieces.
The elbows however ARE cemented to the horizontal (carpeted) pieces. I press the elbows onto the the vertical pieces when I want to use the stand. This way I can disassemble the stand flat and it takes up much less space.

Image
Image


This is an awesome and simple idea, my weekend is going to busy building one of these for my PA14 which is on its way over here.....

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 5:09 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 31, 2015 5:53 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Melbourne FL
Bought a used PA14 and spent the weekend adding a bimini top.

Image
Image


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 7:26 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2014 1:23 am
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Location: MA
z06 wrote:
Bought a used PA14 and spent the weekend adding a bimini top.

Image
Image



Very nice.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2015 1:40 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 27, 2011 2:54 pm
Posts: 89
MikeHeurope wrote:
NINCO1 wrote:
Before I built a Harbor Freight trailer for my PA12, I car-topped the Hobie, and I needed a stand to get it off the garage floor when working on it.
The stands that you see at every Kayak Dealer cost well over $100 depending on the type. I took some measurements at the Dealer's and went to the local Home Depot.
I spent a little over $30 for 1½" PVC pieces; had some cement and a can of red spray paint at home, so a couple of hours of "work" solved the problem... and it really works well! It's strong enough for the PA12.
I had a couple of carpet pieces laying around, so I tie-wrapped them on to prevent the possibility of scratching the bottom of the hull. The black is simply electrical tape to "snazzy" it up a bit!
So, a length of PVC, 4 elbows, 8 "T"-pieces, and 4 end caps.... That's it!
Everything's (PVC) cemented together, EXCEPT I didn't cement the elbows where they connect to the vertical pieces.
The elbows however ARE cemented to the horizontal (carpeted) pieces. I press the elbows onto the the vertical pieces when I want to use the stand. This way I can disassemble the stand flat and it takes up much less space.

Image
Image


This is an awesome and simple idea, my weekend is going to busy building one of these for my PA14 which is on its way over here.....


care to share the dimensions of the pipe sections?
Nice clean build!


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