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PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2015 4:25 pm 
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I seemed to come up with a fix for the skeg after removing and inspecting all area's of the skeg and area's that the cord runs for lowering and raising the Skeg I found it is also wearing the inside of the kayak as well where it rubs on hull its self,I also removed the line from the skeg and also found small pieces of plastic or debris on the hole that the cord runs through where it doubles back to the mounting bracket .
To fix this problem I used a piece of 1/4" cyn flex air line that is used on DOT airbrake systems as a guide for the cord , I cut a piece about 16" and slid it over the line pushed it through the hull into just past the rear hatch then pushed about four inches through the hole for the skeg and adjusted it so the skeg did not hit it when in the up position and tied the cord directly to the skeg instead of doubling it back to the skeg bracket and it is by far easier to lift and lower with less pull on the cord unfortunately I can not post pictures and I plan to go out this week end to see how it does


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2015 4:52 pm 
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RobertM wrote:
I seemed to come up with a fix for the skeg after removing and inspecting all area's of the skeg and area's that the cord runs for lowering and raising the Skeg I found it is also wearing the inside of the kayak as well where it rubs on hull its self,I also removed the line from the skeg and also found small pieces of plastic or debris on the hole that the cord runs through where it doubles back to the mounting bracket .
To fix this problem I used a piece of 1/4" cyn flex air line that is used on DOT airbrake systems as a guide for the cord , I cut a piece about 16" and slid it over the line pushed it through the hull into just past the rear hatch then pushed about four inches through the hole for the skeg and adjusted it so the skeg did not hit it when in the up position and tied the cord directly to the skeg instead of doubling it back to the skeg bracket and it is by far easier to lift and lower with less pull on the cord unfortunately I can not post pictures and I plan to go out this week end to see how it does


here's how to post pictures: http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=8574 - sounds like a good idea - love to see your setup

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 6:45 am 
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Still no fix video?


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 8:08 am 
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Yak9107 wrote:
Still no fix video?


Once we have announced the line re-route instructions to our dealers we can share it. The area reps have seen the link - but it' won't go public until after all our dealers have been notified, since folks will be contacting dealers to get the kits, they need to be up to speed on it first.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 9:25 am 
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So parts are needed? Or just instructions? Thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 11:46 am 
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You will need parts... There is a kit that has to be made up, so will take some time too.

It is a short tube for a new hole location and a small plug for the original hole location.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 11:53 am 
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RobertM wrote:
I seemed to come up with a fix for the skeg after removing and inspecting all area's of the skeg and area's that the cord runs for lowering and raising the Skeg I found it is also wearing the inside of the kayak as well where it rubs on hull its self,I also removed the line from the skeg and also found small pieces of plastic or debris on the hole that the cord runs through where it doubles back to the mounting bracket .
To fix this problem I used a piece of 1/4" cyn flex air line that is used on DOT airbrake systems as a guide for the cord , I cut a piece about 16" and slid it over the line pushed it through the hull into just past the rear hatch then pushed about four inches through the hole for the skeg and adjusted it so the skeg did not hit it when in the up position and tied the cord directly to the skeg instead of doubling it back to the skeg bracket and it is by far easier to lift and lower with less pull on the cord unfortunately I can not post pictures and I plan to go out this week end to see how it does


Need some pics....


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 7:00 pm 
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Saw this on Pro Angler Facebook page. Looks like the video of the fix is out.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=you ... vqJSXlqKks


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 11:47 pm 
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I purchased my PA through ACK. Called Hobie and they said go through the dealer for the warranty part. Called ACK and they took down my hull number and said they would be contacting Hobie to request the part today. Looks like a pretty easy do it yourself fix.

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2015 PA12


Last edited by Cory5129 on Thu Apr 30, 2015 8:57 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 2:24 am 
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well this is what i got from the facebook page "hobie pro angler owners"
I don't take any responsebility for it's correctness.

Hobie Cat Dealer Bulletin
2015 Pro Angler 12/14 Tracking Skeg Issue
We have discovered a problem with the routing of the tracking skeg’s up-control line in the 2015 Pro Angler 12 and 14. The line has excessive friction at it’s exit point within the steering drum area, under the black plate. We have received some reports of lines cutting into the exit grommet. This affects 2015 model serial numbers ending in 415 as well as A515, B515, C515 and possibly a few boats in D515. The issue was corrected on the assembly line April 2nd.
If your boat has this issue you will see the grommet forward of the drum as shown:
We have created a kit and instructions for re-routing this line. The video below explains the fix. It should take about 10-15 minutes to complete. Kits should be ordered through warranty.

That said, i got a early 2015 PA12 (snr. 415) and my cable is already on the (new corrected) place ??? th only thing is that i am missing the white liner in the feedthru.

gtz


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 9:41 am 
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Quote:
i got a early 2015 PA12 (snr. 415) and my cable is already on the (new corrected) place ??? th only thing is that i am missing the white liner in the feedthru.


I am a bit baffled at why an early boat has the correct location, but the white tube is more durable and should be used there I believe. Any wear showing on yours?

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 9:46 am 
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All warranty claims are handled by your dealer... Contact your dealer if you have the following issue.

Not all 2015 boats have this issue, read the detail concerning the differences.

We have discovered a problem with the routing of the tracking skeg's up-control line in some 2015 Pro Angler 12 and 14. The line has excessive friction at it's exit point within the steering drum area, under the black plate. We have received some reports of lines cutting into the exit grommet. This affects 2015 model serial numbers ending in 415 as well as A515, B515, C515 and possibly a few boats in D515. The issue was corrected on the assembly line April 2nd.

If your boat has this issue you will see the grommet forward of the drum as shown:

Image

We have created a kit and instructions for re-routing this line. The video below explains the fix. It should take about 10-15 minutes to complete. Kits should be ordered through warranty.

84610122 PA SKEG LINE KIT
The kit contains a 5/16 panel rivet and a short line tube with end grommet.

Image

Instructions: https://static.hobiecat.com/item_attachments/84610122z148.pdf

Video: http://www.hobiecat.com/skeg-line



This is not a safety issue. No leaking is caused but function of the tracking skeg could be compromised.

Owners wishing to do the update should contact their dealer to file a warranty claim.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 11:20 am 
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I'm curious how that location changes much of anything? Its still going to rub the underside of the tank well when tension is pulled on it and that tube aimed out the side with the cord comeing from the front is going to fold pretty hard. Also curious why the 180* turn at the skeg wasn't eliminated? As someone already pointed out including myself, it makes a difference...


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 11:35 am 
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My serial number ends in I414 and has the grommet forward of the drum as pictured above..but my serial number doesn't end like any of the ones hobie posted....and I have an issue with the skeg dropping down when deployed....there are more pro anglers with this problem. ..not just the boats with those specific serial numbers. ...Image


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 11:45 am 
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Hutch wrote:
My serial number ends in I414 and has the grommet forward of the drum as pictured above..


That is an odd number. "I" should be September and should be a 2015 model if built in September 2014.. Only 2015 boats should have a skeg I think.

Picture?

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