Now I'm Screwed Literally

So, I have an 2014 PA14 and was installing the H-Rail upgrade kit. First of all, it is a lot trickier than the video on Youtube done by Hobie. I was attaching the bracket that holds on the bar aft of the of the seat, the 5/1618 cap screw must have been askew. It is now stripped and won't back out. The only way to turn it at all is with a pair of pliers but the internal nut turns. This nut doesn't seem to be accessible from the rear hatch. It is too far back to see from the Vantage seat hatch. The rear hatch is too small to get my big fat head into. I can reach the area with my hand but appears to be molded into the body as all I can feel is the plastic of the yak.

So, am I screwed? Anyone have suggestions.

Thanks in advance.

Jeff

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Jeff
KansasYaker
2014 - Pro Angler - 14 - Upgraded H-Rail Kit

You may be able to grab the nut through the molded plastic. Then turn out the bolt... clean up the brass with a tap and try again. If the nut is too damaged... you could pull it out and use a backing nut and washer instead. Then of course... sealant.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

Thanks for the replay Matt. I don't see a way to grad the nut through the molded plastic without cutting a hole of some kind, but maybe that's your point on the sealant.

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Jeff
KansasYaker
2014 - Pro Angler - 14 - Upgraded H-Rail Kit

Yep... at that point you have to damage the plastic inside to grab it.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

I could not get bolt out with any amount of force. I had to end up using a drill and cut out the bolt and nut with a series of small holes. What I ended up with is a hole about the size of a quarter. I filled this hole with epoxy. Once it had hardened, I sunk a E-Z Lok threaded insert with 5/16"-18 internal threads.

All in all, it seems like a very strong connection. Sight wise it is no big deal since it is under the h-rail cap end. I'll have to keep an eye one it for water tightness.

One lesson I have learned, take pictures before disassembling anything. As easy as the video seemed to upgrade the h-rail, the harder it as in reality. Loosen the rudder tension knob, drop the rudder, remove old steering handles, remove the lock pins, drop the steering rods, unhook the rudder cables from the rods, put the longer rods, yada yada and bing bang boom you're done. Reality, a week later, I'm almost done. Did I mention that you have to be a contortionist?

Had I taken pictures I would known how exactly the cable between the two handles run from one rod through the pulleys and connects to the rod on the other side.

Does anyone have or can anyone take pictures of the rudder cable than runs from one steering rod to the other? Looking for detail of where this cable runs in relation to the pulleys.

Thanks in advance.

Jeff

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Jeff
KansasYaker
2014 - Pro Angler - 14 - Upgraded H-Rail Kit

I had my dealer install it for me oex sunset beach ca
2 guys install it in about 1.5 hours very happy with the upgrade

Completed my upgrade this past weekend and took me about 3 hours but was being very cautious and careful due to Jeff's (KansasYaker) issue. If not for Jeff's post I would likely have been in the same position. When I removed the rear bolt on old rail I could see some small metal fines from the brass insert. I cleaned out real well and put anti-seize on the new bolt to make sure did not lockup/gall.

Very happy with upgrade thus far but the $150 upgrade kit can turn into $400 real quick with the addition of many of the H-rail accessories!

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Keith Black

2014 PA 14 Olive
2014 WS Ride 115x Camo

I'm glad I was able to save someone from the same hassle that I went through. The epoxy that I used seems to be holding up just fine without any noticeable leaks. I've had it out 5 times since then and haven't even given it a second thought.

Jeff
KansasYaker

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Jeff
KansasYaker
2014 - Pro Angler - 14 - Upgraded H-Rail Kit

Here in lies the problem..... you are suffering from HDSA.... the Hobie Dark Side Addiction. No cure at this time. If you find yourself standing and staring at your Hobie for more than 4 hours call your doctor or call one of the many Hobie accessories outfitters and purchase more stuff.

#MoreHbarsMoreStuff

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Just a Kid to the End

The same thing happened to me when installing the Boonedox Groovy Landing Gear on my PA14. I didn't have a hex bit allen wrench drill bit set so I used a manual allen wrench. It was difficult to turn the cap screw about half way through, and I think the side jerking motion caused the cross threading. Definitely use a drill, ideally an impact driver. Anyway, I was able to get the screw out, but the insert came with it (lots of prying under the spacer). Here's what it looks like:



I followed mmiller's advise and was able to use a tap to clean up the threads. It now threads fine. I didn't understand what I was dealing with, so hopefully the above image helps others. I may have been able to get the screw out holding the nut in place, had I tried.

Thoughts on what to do now? I was thinking about using some JB Weld PlasticWeld around the insert, and hammering it back down in. Then trying again once it dries, using an impact driver (straight down). Other ideas? Worst case I can go to plan B and use a backing nut and washer (as mmiller also mentioned).

Thanks in advance!

Just to finish this thread off...

I ended up shaving the bottom of the molded plastic to expose the bottom of the hole (plan B; using a very sharp wood chisel). I didn't shave all the way flush; just a bit, but it was flat. I then used a larger SS fender washer and a locknut at the bottom, with a longer cap screw. While holding the nut I tightened the cap screw using an impact driver. It worked fine and the H-rail is secure.

The reason I didn't attempt to reuse the brass insert is that there are not many polyethylene adhesives out there. I did see that Loctite has a product that may work.

Good luck!