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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2016 2:30 pm 
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My pro angler 14 is taking in quite a bit of water. I filled it with water and discovered a crack in the rear of the hole that holds the mirage drive. I was wondering if this is repairable? I will try to include a picture. Thanks for any responses.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KBLQ6JPcD7M


Last edited by Toddj3000 on Mon Jul 04, 2016 8:00 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2016 5:59 am 
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What year is your PA-14?

A photo is worth a thousand words!

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2016 1:43 pm 
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KBLQ6JPcD7M


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 5:16 pm 
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Nice close up photos will help a dealer file a warranty claim for review.

Depends on how this happened. You may be able to damage the well if the drive is inserted incorrectly and then pedaled, but we can have a look.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 6:01 pm 
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I payed a lot of money for this kayak, so I'm very meticulous every time I put the mirage drive in. I'm always 100% certain that it's all the way in, and that it doesn't wiggle the tiniest bit. Regardless of that, thank you for your response. What should my next step be?


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 8:22 pm 
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Sorry, I missed the top line of your post before I responded. It's an older model Pro Angler. The warranty is expired.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2016 12:44 pm 
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We can still take a look at it. Welding is an option for sure.

Quote:
Nice close up photos will help a dealer file a warranty claim for review.

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Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2016 6:56 pm 
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I tried to take some close up pictures. The crack is so fine that you can't even see it in the photos I took. The hull barely even leaks unless the mirage drive is being used. The small amount of movement opens the crack. It probably takes on about a gallon every 15 minutes. The crack is actually on the opposite side of the well that they usually show up on. If I can weld it for a long term solution, that would be awesome.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2016 7:36 pm 
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Location: Charlevoix, MI
Todd-
I had the same situation in my 2010 PA14. The hairline crack occurred at the aft end of the drive well, near the outer hull. I could not see or photograph it until I shone a flashlight at aft end of the outer drivewell (where the MD drops in) at night and then observe/photograph the inside of the drivewell through the tackle hatch. This showed the crack quite clearly. My hull was also out of warranty but my dealer said he could sell me a 2010 hull at cost or repair for free. I opted for the repair, which only held up for one season. Dealer did a weld to seal the crack and then covered the entire aft part of the drivewell in a fiberglass patch to strengthen the drivewell. Unfortunately, this is now leaking from between the fiberglass patch and the hull, especially when peddling hard. I am not sure what to do now and wish I had opted for the replacement hull instead. I think the stress that peddling puts on this area leads to a much higher risk of failure than other areas of the deck, for instance, which can probably be safely welded without risk of repeated failure.

Matt - any suggestions?


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2016 11:35 pm 
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Thank you for your response Jim. Your situation sounds almost identical to mine. All of my kayaking friends are jealous of the fact that I have the Cadillac of kayaks, then after a while, they realize that it's slowly sinking lol! At the beginning of my kayaking trips, everyone asks me where I got my awesome kayak? By the end, they're telling me, that the Mirage Drive looks like a workout. 75 lbs of water will do that haha. Anyway, I'd be willing to put 10 pounds of whatever kind of "goop" around the inside of the crack to fix the leak. In my opinion, a Hobie PA that didn't leak, would be the best kayak ever made.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2016 9:40 am 
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Here is an old thread discussing this issue and showing the flashlight trick.
viewtopic.php?p=245224#p245224


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2016 10:01 am 
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I think using ScotchWeld DP 8010 would work well to back up a small weld repair.

Quote:
high stress area I've found only two epoxies that work -- 3M ScotchWeld DP 8010 (and its variant 8010 NS) and Loctite 3030


Search forums for DP 8010 and user "roadrunner" for a number of examples.

Welding examples are on http://www.polyvance.com/Kayak-and-Canoe-Welders-1/Professional-KC-Welder/

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Hobie Cat USA
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 08, 2016 3:47 pm 
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mmiller wrote:
I think using ScotchWeld DP 8010 would work well to back up a small weld repair.

Quote:
high stress area I've found only two epoxies that work -- 3M ScotchWeld DP 8010 (and its variant 8010 NS) and Loctite 3030


Search forums for DP 8010 and user "roadrunner" for a number of examples.

Welding examples are on http://www.polyvance.com/Kayak-and-Canoe-Welders-1/Professional-KC-Welder/

I have been unsuccessful finding a source for 1-tube of 3M Scotch-Weld DP 8010 or 8010NS to accomplish this repair. Lots of online sources for 12-tube cartons (for more than $500). 3M, Grainger, U-Line etc won't sell just 1. Anybody have a US retail or online source?

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2016 7:06 am 
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Sorry to hear about your leak... I had a similar experience with my Adventure Island. See thread: http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=75&t=55184

Basically I was advised any repair I would do would end up being temporary. So I got a replacement hull.

I will say, I had to wait a few months for my new hull, and in the meantime, I did a temporary repair: just filled the crack with silicon, and put Gorilla Tape over the crack. Amazingly, that held up perfectly well for probably 50 miles. It may have lasted longer even. It's such an easy repair, I could have seen myself redoing if every few months if I hadn't gotten a new hull.

Good luck!


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2016 5:30 pm 
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I have a 2011 Mirage Outback that I've used 2-4 weeks each summer on a lake in NH. This summer the boat started leaking and fills up with water over 12 hours. Although outside the 2 yr warranty, I learned that drive well leaks are caused by a Hobie manufacturing process problem (the Hobie part manager said so on the Hobie user forum) and Hobie would provide some price relief on a replacement hull. When I contacted Hobie's warranty manager (Jerry) he insisted I open a 'warranty claim' through the dealer and provide a photo. I did and he responded saying the picture didn't show a crack and that I'd have to drive the boat to the dealer to verify the problem. I explained it was a 3 hour round trip to the dealer and there was no visible crack. There must be a leak beneath the drive assembly where it attaches to the hull. The dealer would have to place the boat in the water overnight to verify the problem. Still Jerry wouldn't budge. So for the sake of a hull that can't cost Hobie more than $500 (and I would have gladly paid this!), Jerry has alienated a previously loyal and enthusiastic Hobie customer. Too bad because I love the boat when it doesn't leak. Are there any alternatives out there?


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