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PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2016 8:59 pm 
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Location: St. Louis, Missouri
I rarely use the skeg on my 2016 PA14, so it is almost always locked in the up position. I try to remember to release it when I get it on the trailer, but where as I almost always remember to release the tensioner on the rudder and even on he seat boa, I seem to have a mental block where the skeg is concerned. That being said, it is now requiring manual intervension to deploy properly. I guess it is the old 'use it or lose it adage.'

Can anyone recommend a fix? Silicone spray lubricant? Once I get it working again, I promise to take better care of it! You don't realize how handy it is until your peddling long distance with a nasty crosswind.

BTW: the spectra cord releases fine from the cleat and seems to fully retract, but the skeg just does not drop down. A little tug on the skeg is required to get it to deploy.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 23, 2016 6:25 am 
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I would try a "wet silicone spray" on the pivot point/shaft.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 23, 2016 8:32 pm 
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Dr.SteelheadCatcher wrote:
I would try a "wet silicone spray" on the pivot point/shaft.


I will give that a try in the morning. I have a can of WD 40 branded spray silicone I use to stop squeaks between the ball and receiver on my trailer.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2016 6:40 pm 
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Nothing is easy. I applied the silicone and the skeg still fails to deploy. Though now it is much smoother when I pull it down. :) When I release the cable from the clam cleat, it does retract into the kayak, completely, but it seems like it is catching on something inside. So, when I pull the skeg down, I can feel it catching slightly then it drops right down. I was thinking that I might have had debris in the middle rear scupper hole where the skeg mechanism is located, but I also cleaned it out thuroughly with mild soapy water and even sprayed silicone, and it made no difference.

Anyone - Matt Miller/Strech - have a diagram of how the Skeg line is run thru the hull of a 2016 PA14? It really seems to be catching right at the front of the skeg.

I found this link a little while ago. https://static.hobiecat.com/item_attachments/84610122z148.pdf Does it hold true for 2016 models? If so, it is looking like I might need to turn this thing upside down, unscrew the skeg, and see if I can find the issue.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2016 10:44 am 
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Before doing a complete re-route of the skeg line, I would poke your head inside one of the hatches to make sure the line didn't come off the pulley or that it's not tangled with another line. Also, unbolt the skeg from the bottom of the boat and look for the same.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2016 10:56 am 
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I have PA 2016 as well and experiencing the same since I got it. It could be a poor design. I did not bother checking it further as it's always up when I'm going fishing and never been to a situation (windy condition) where I need it down. But good STL opened this topic as I like to know if this can be improved.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2016 8:43 pm 
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HStrech wrote:
Before doing a complete re-route of the skeg line, I would poke your head inside one of the hatches to make sure the line didn't come off the pulley or that it's not tangled with another line. Also, unbolt the skeg from the bottom of the boat and look for the same.


Finally had a break in the heat and the fish were on fire this evening. Nothing giant, but a lot of nice fish in the 2.5 to 3lb range...fun! That being said, I was on my boat and not under it.

I am pretty sure the Skeg line is still attached correctly as it retracts the skeg just fine. When I release it from the cleat, the line fully retracts all the way to the handle. It is just that the skeg does not deploy. When I manually pull on the skeg, you can feel tension on the line, and feel/hear it rubbing against something, then release and the skeg drops down smoothly.

It is supposed to rainy tomorrow, so after I finish up with work, I will up end the boat, unscrew the skeg and inspect.

Nap - I will let you know what I find.

Anyone else experiencing the same issue, or even better, found a fix.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 5:24 am 
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STL,

I don't use the skeg very much. If it's windy and the stern keeps wanting to swing around and I want to maintain a better track, I use it. I have taken the top plate off and noticed that the hull is wearing a little where the skeg cord rubs on it. I heard there was a fix, but I am going to see what I can do to alleviate the wear on the plastic in that spot. Hope you get it figured out.

Steve

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 8:15 am 
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Could also just be a simple solution of loosening the pivot bolt - you'll just remove the 4 Philips screws holding the assembly into the hull - lift the skeg out of the cavity, then you'll see the pivot bolt - you can just take a half-turn off that screw - that will let it slid up & down easier.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 6:43 pm 
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After removing the stearing cover plate, I found that the skeg line routing tube and grommet had come out of its hole. The skeg line was actually chewing into the hull and getting stuck. After re-inserting the tube the skeg deployes like new. The tube and grommet actually fit pretty tight, but I think I should probably use some epoxy on it in the near future - but all I had handy was super glue and some silicone. (Anyone have suggestions for a good plastic on plastic waterproof epoxy?) One other thing I noticed was that the line is starting to wear a channel into the hull where it drops thru to the skeg itself. Thinking that needs a grommet of some kind as well but I can noddle on that one later.

It seems that there is a lot of tension on the skeg line when it is retracted. Since I continually forget to release it when I get done fishing and trailering home, I am sure that I am partly (mostly) responsible for this issue. I believe that as long as I release the skeg after I get it on the trailer, and when the kayak is not in use, this will probably not happen again, as there is some slack in the line when the skeg is down. I just need to train myself to...release the skeg...release the skeg...

Here are a couple of pictures of what I came across, and the slight channel being dug into the bottom and side of the kayaks plastic. You can even see where the line is wearing thru the grommet itself.

Image

Image

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 7:07 am 
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Wow great photos and info, I'm sure this will help someone in the future. Thanks for taking the time to post what you found.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 1:18 pm 
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Location: Lake Park, GA
STL,

I have a similar small groove in mine made by the cord. I'm curious if there's something we could brush on that area that would harden and be more resistant to being worn by the cord. That is a sharp turn and I can see how a lot of repeated use could cause the cord to wear into the plastic. Thoughts?

Steve

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 2:04 pm 
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Steve: I am actually thinking of finding a piece of PVC that fits the hole, and use a heat gun/torch to reshape the top so that it flairs out and fits nicely in that scupper. Basically make my own reverse-grommet. That might not make sense to anyone that is not inside my head. Thinking it is going to take a trip to the hardware store to find what I am looking for. Will keep you up to date. Please do the same.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 5:31 pm 
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Hobie,

So many issues already related to this. There should be a sacrificial grommet in every cases where line rubs the hull. I think you should start solving this and not carry this issue to next year model.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2016 7:05 pm 
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The rudder is working like new still. I have been pretty religious with leaving it deployed when trailering or not on the water. I am going to take a look at it again and compare the photos. Want to see if it keeps getting worse. But I am pretty sure that trailering the kayak with the skeg retracted exacerbated the problem. Nap is right though. Hobie needs to come up with a grommet for areas like the scupper hole under the rudder plate. If mine gets any worse, I will jury-rig my own. I would do it now, but I just don't want to take the time to flip the boat, remove the skeg line, mold a grommet...I would rather be on the water.

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