Electrical switch and fuse block recommendations?

I am preparing to wire my new PA14. In my old PA I added individual wires with inline fuses as my needs evolved but I want to do a clean install now with no holes or hull cutouts for switch panels.

Currently, I run a FF and a USB phone charger off my 12V battery. I would like to use a 4-6 fuse block so there is room to grow (possibly for lighting or radio, for example). This would be Velcroed beneath the deck somewhere accessible - I am thinking beneath the 8" rear hatch. My battery will have to go under the seat or near the front mast post due to size. I would like to wire a pigtail connecter into the fuse block which would permit me to open the rear hatch and quickly connect my battery charger at the end of the day rather than pull out the tackle management stuff or front tub and disconnect the battery from the fuse block. BUT, I don't want my battery charger to be powering my FF, lights, etc when it is charging in the garage, or my lights to be on whenever the battery is connected. So I think this means I need switches on each circuit and the only switched systems I have found are large surface mount panels which would require cutting a big hole in the hull.

This is all very straightforward when drawing schematics, but I need actual part advice. Can anyone recommend an under-deck Velcro-able 4-6 circuit fuse block with built-in switches, so I could turn circuits/devices on and off and easily charge the battery?

PS - Where is your onboard phone charger? (I am thinking of running a USB charger wire out the wire handler behind the seat and just leaving enough slack to tuck the connected phone into a side pocket, but this is a much wetter location than I had on my old PA.)

I made a panel that replaces one of the rod holders so no cutting of the boat required. I used waterproof switches, voltmeters, breakers and USB outlets from eBay. There is lots of room behind the mast post for a junction box, I made one from a plastic box, the extra pass thru fittings and some terminal strips. With quick connects on the battery it's easy to disconnect or I've even changed a dead battery on the water.
I use the mast post battery holder for my LiFe batteries and it's easy to access by lifting up the end of the liner/tub.


Brian

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On the bank of the Bow River

Beautiful install, Brian! In researching this issue I had seen your previous post. I am reluctant to sacrifice the rod holders though, since I routinely use 4 of these during transport and on the water. I am looking for something more utilitarian where I can pop the hatch, energize the circuits I need for that trip, close the hatch and be on my way.

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Tombsy's waterproof jump box might be the ticket for you. Not sure if it has breakers in it or if they are in the panel themselves.

I am thinking about doing what some others have suggested. Mount a cigarette lighter adapter in the rectangular bucket on an two wire SAE plug. Would even be a good place to mount a switch or panel below the bucket. I just want it to be able to use an adapter to charge my phone. I have purchased red and white interior lights, but after talking to others, and some practice, found that a headlamp works better, with little chance of binding myself and completely destroying my night vision.

I think that if I ever do add the lights, it will be like LT did on his kayak, mostly for lighting up the shore or safety from other boaters.

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STLKayak
2020 Pro Angler 14 360
St. Louis, Missouri
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100005695487937

I robbed the lighted switches from one of these panels from eBay, I have my individual components fused so I'm not using the breakers. But if you made a box for it you could mount it behind the mast, you can swap out the meter or 12v outlet for a USB port they are interchangeable. I'm using Genius chargers so I changed all my battery connections to their quick connects, makes it really easy to swap batteries and connect to the charger. I found a variety pack of the heat shrink waterproof connectors on eBay then used heat shrink tubing with the glue inside over those connectors.



Brian

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On the bank of the Bow River

Nice! I wish I could find something like that with 4-6 switches, each individually fused, a common Neg bus and built-in USB charger. Seems like you can either get switch panel or fuse block, but not fused switches.

I used a similar switch panel in place of the same horizontal rod holder. I replaced the cigarette lighter adapter for usb connections.



More pictures in the original post.

http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=78&t=54071

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Jeff
KansasYaker
2014 - Pro Angler - 14 - Upgraded H-Rail Kit

Hi...i am a new user here. In my case i used waterproof switches, voltmeters, breakers and USB outlets from eBay. There is lots of room behind the mast post for a junction box, I made one from a plastic box, the extra pass thru fittings and some terminal strips. With quick connects on the battery it's easy to disconnect or I've even changed a dead battery on the water.

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surface mount assembly

Right on that's how I did mine as well.


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On the bank of the Bow River

Check out the Yak Power system. First saw this in an Ascend in display at Bass Pro Shop. I bought it online, but they now sell the system separate at BPS. Have a fish finder, Power Pole Micro and LED strip light in the cockpit.

https://www.southernaudioservices.com/Y ... -P627.aspx

John - do you know if the individual circuits are separately fused in this Yak Power System? From the link, it looks like just one inline fuse at the battery input. I wanted to do one inline at the battery and separate blade fuses (in one fuse block) for each connected device. That way, you can use a low amperage fuse for your cellphone and high amperage for your trolling motor or power pole. I ended up using a Blue Sea Systems fuse block (https://www.bluesea.com/products/5025/S ... _and_Cover) mounted to the inner lid of the rear hatch cover. An SAE quick disconnect plug let's me disconnect the battery from the fuse block for in-hull charging.

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I've got mine each fused individually with inline waterproof fuse holders. It's not as clean as a fused switch panel, but the wiring and fuses are all out of sight in the hull and I liked this switch panel better for size of the hole I had to cut

Here is how I installed the Yak-Power system.

https://youtu.be/RF2JXYYa0n8

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For power distribution, you may want to look at a PDM60 which is waterproof. I've personally used it on motorcycles for years with zero failures.

https://youtu.be/MMlEBhs6Mdg