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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2018 9:25 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:18 am
Posts: 3058
Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
The honda 2.3 weighs 27 lbs, a lot of guys are using the Suzuki 2.5’s which are I think 29 lbs. I only have experience with the Honda’s, (we’ve been running them a very long time with minimal issues).

We did our external fuel hookup a little different. Instead of modifying the gas cap we installed a t connector below the fuel tank, with the second line, with a one way flow valve in the line. Using the same type bulb pump you have we just pumped up the tanks full every 3 hrs or so of runtime. We ran that setup for about a year then removed it, (putting it back to stock, (removed the external fuel tank). Simply because we never used the thing because 90% of our outings used less than a tank of fuel, (typically around 25-30 miles or 2.5-3 hrs of runtime).

Our TI was setup differently as a tri-power setup, (human, sail, supplimental propulsion), utilizing really big sailsets and wing sails, ( the outboards supplied only about 1/3-1/2 of our propulsion needs). With the twin engines and custom high pitch props we only ever ran the engines just above idle, (enough rpm to lock the clutches), at that power level, (about 3/4hp ea) the boat goes 7-8mph with no sails and not pedaling on calm flat water. Which gave us around 2.5-3hrs run time per tank of fuel while sailing, (2 liters of fuel, (1liter per engine)). With the wing, sails, and pedaling at a steady pace, (tri-power), this propelled the boat to around 8-10mph normal cruise speed in very low winds, (obviously faster in bigger winds), the hardened boat could handle 25mph winds and rough seas, but we never would go out in those conditions on purpose. Even in 5-7mph winds the boat was an exhaustng handful to operate over 10mph cruise speed so we seldom ever took it out in winds over 5-7mph, actually we much preferred 3-5 mph winds and dead flat water, (best for snorkeling and diving, (underwater visability), which was our main pastime).
For a while we had starter ropes and motor tilt up ropes ran but ended up never using them so they were removed. We ended up just starting the motors when we pulled out from shore, then leave them run for the day until we came back in, (when not using them we just let them idle, (extremely quiet).
Obviously if the winds are good we can always just tilt the motors up and sail the ancient old fasion way, running with the motors tilted up has no effect whatsoever to the boats regular sailing ability. With the big sailsets, (up to 260 sq ft of sail), the boat scoots along pretty well in good winds, however we almost never used the boat that way because of my bad back, (yes I’m handicapped), so we almost never went out in winds over 7mph and very flat water, (my body can’t stand any waves cause of my back. Fortunately around here those are the typical conditions 80% of the time around here, so the boat was tuned to suite our most typical conditions.
I really like your throttle extension, and your kill switch extensions, and your motor mount is the best design I’ve seen.

We just locked our motors straight and used the TI rudder to steer. If the TI rudder fails or breaks, we left the tillers on the motors so I could sit in the back seat and steer using the motor tiller to get us back home and safety, (which in actuality happened a lot), the rudder system on the TI breaks easily. We did hook up a few pulleys and some spectra string to the backs of the motors, with a single strand connected between the two motors, then ran the string thru several pulleys up to a handle running across the rear aka brace, with a handle, so we could steer the motors. We used that setup once, then removed it, (it worked but we really didn’t need it). Over time (the last 8 yrs) we added and subtracted tons of gadgetry, the more gadgets you have, extends the setup time, we worked very hard to keep our rigging and launch time under 15 minutes, so most of the extra gadgets were removed. Since the boat steers just fine with the rudder 99% of the time, no need for the extra steering. Steering via the motors ended up being really wierd. Since the wing sails are providing the majority of the propulsion, the motors most of the time are just dragged along for the ride, (only providing a fraction of the propulsion requirements). Which means when the motors are not providing positive propulsion, turning the motors doesn’t turn the boat, (Lol,,, the big surprise). Since your not sailing, you likely won’t have this issue. The Hobie grey spectra rudder line (zero stretch and around 300 lbs test, same line used on pretty much all Hobie kayaks), would likely work nicely for your setup, (two lines ran from the back of the motor, thru pulleys, with the front pulleys mounted just behind your seat, ran across and attached to a handle. Actually a small rotary steering wheel attached to to your H bar would be really cool, (attaching to your existing throttle would also work, kind of like the stick on a jet fighter)). Keep in mind the rear pulleys need to be mounted far enough forward so you can still tilt the motor up.
I love your setup.
FE
Edit: we ended up using a screen door spring, ( the kind that hooks on chains at the top of your screen door), mounted somewhere in the steering system to keep tension on the steering lines.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2019 3:53 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Mon Feb 26, 2018 12:34 am
Posts: 19
Here is an updated Video from last weekend...

https://youtu.be/tm6xzVVsa1E

[youtube]https://youtu.be/tm6xzVVsa1E[/youtube]


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2019 6:10 pm 
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Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2018 2:03 pm
Posts: 40
I was at the Chicagoland fishing Expo on Friday and looked at one of these motors. It's funny in that a Power Pole with a battery cost as grand and you can buy this motor for $900. My wife said that motor was a deal. What a women. 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2019 10:01 am 
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Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Wed Feb 07, 2018 3:25 pm
Posts: 32
Location: Seffner, Florida
I have been looking at Rapala's concept and drew up a couple of basic prototype drawings in Fusion 360. One was based on the Round Tube design like Rapala's that was bent to the contour of the Hobie rear deck.. I also drew one up based on 1.5" square tubing that could easily be welded. Hear are a couple of pictures for your amusement.
https://i.imgur.com/5cIljl8.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/RhgNoMr.jpg

I took a closer look at my Hobie Pro Angler 14 and found the area where Rapala has his forward mount was very thin. Not sure what type of reinforcing Rapala used but I would not be comfortable unless some type of reinforcing was done on the inside of the Hobie in that area. Also, this is a curved surface and could create some design issues if this were to be made from one piece. Furthermore, there are some internal cables in that area of the Hobie.

The rear lifting bracket/handle on the other hand is ROCK SOLID.

John

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The RIGID RAIL Accessory Mounting System is coming to a Hobie near you soon.

Variable Speed Electra Drive System Designed by: Phil Krug.
https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=78&t=62295&p=298578#p298578


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