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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2018 12:07 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 11, 2012 7:14 am
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Location: Wilmington, NC
I have a 2012 PA 14. I need to replace the stretched-out shock cord in the grab rails (3 coming out the bottom on each side). I removed the grab rails & saw that the black plastic oval shaped fitting through which the shock cord passes out of the grab rail seems to be riveted in place. How is the shock cord replacement done?

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PA 14; 2012
Cape Fear River - NC


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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2018 3:39 pm 
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You have to remove the ends - on the under side there's washers that the bungees are tied onto - it all has to come apart - We offer the side bars as a complete assembly - we don't have instructions on replacing the shock cord - but I'm looking at one here on my desk and it looks possible - I think the simple solution would be to just chock up the knots on the end of the shock cord where it's attached to these washers - but you must take the ends off the kayak - it's going to be a little bit involved.

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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2018 4:05 pm 
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Location: Wilmington, NC
Thanks Jacque. I removed one end of the grab rail, but at the other end the socket head screw just keeps rotating in place so I can't get the handle loose. Took off the other side grab rail & can see the washers you are talking about.
How do I get the other socket head screw out? I don't have access to the insert & if I pry it out, I will damage either the hull or the black fitting the handle aluminum tube fits into!

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PA 14; 2012
Cape Fear River - NC


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2018 4:53 am 
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Was hoping to get some reply from Mr. Bernier. One end of the handle cannot be removed as the allen head screw spins in place as if the female insert into the molded in hole seems to have become detached from it's hold on the hull. Forcing it out seems that it will permanently damage the hull & therefor handle cannot be replaced.

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PA 14; 2012
Cape Fear River - NC


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2018 9:14 am 
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Sounds like your bolt is seized in the molded brass insert - You'll maybe have luck grabbing onto the backside (inside the hull) with some vise grips to keep it from spinning - or you'll need to pry it out (the insert) - then thru-bolt with a larger washer and a lock nut - that would also work. We mold the inserts into the hulls for ease of installation in the assembly shop - but thru-bolting would work just fine.

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Jacques Bernier
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2018 6:45 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2018 9:01 am
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Location: Near Austin, TX
Hi,

I'm following this thread and have posted one of my own with not attention. I just want to clearly understand, on my 2011 PA 14 the rail hardware is a SS allen bolt and a brass hull threaded insert (not a nut and washer that once the bold is removed will just fall down into the hull)? Reason why is I can't imagine the royal PITA it would be to get to the underside to hold a nut (see image below).

My recently used purchased 2011 PA 14 seems to have the fwd port bold spinning and not seating, suspect what's going on here with this user. So my plan is to reset the insert with Loctite AA 3035 adhesive, what I used to repair the cam columns on my 2008 Revo here: https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic. ... 24#p305324

Again, it's a threaded insert correct? Not a bolt and loose nut?

Image

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Roy Niswanger


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2018 8:00 am 
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Correct

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Jacques Bernier
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