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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 3:30 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 28, 2007 11:23 am
Posts: 597
Location: Lake Norman NC
just being an engineer how about using a long threaded rod and have a bow stop and a roller. My device looks just like yours except my center bow stop is very V shaped and fits the mast perfectly and I used 2 whole bow stops on the sides instead of cutting one in half. The drill bit went thru them with no problem, I think mine is every bit as good as the factory one at $85 bucks and indeed maybe better which is saying a lot because Hobie factory stuff is great;


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 5:20 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 13, 2012 7:35 pm
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Location: Tuscaloosa, AL
gary eudy wrote:
just being an engineer how about using a long threaded rod and have a bow stop and a roller. My device looks just like yours except my center bow stop is very V shaped and fits the mast perfectly and I used 2 whole bow stops on the sides instead of cutting one in half. The drill bit went thru them with no problem, I think mine is every bit as good as the factory one at $85 bucks and indeed maybe better which is saying a lot because Hobie factory stuff is great;

Is your V a lot smaller. I had one of those originally before I saw the one Zack is talking about but the smaller one was much smaller.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 11:32 am 
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Location: Lake Norman NC
it is smaller however it holds and fits the mast perfectly kind of a capital Y shape It was only 4 bucks


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 6:35 pm 
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Location: Tuscaloosa, AL
Took H16 to the lake. 25 min drive one way, no issues.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 10:39 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2007 6:06 pm
Posts: 610
Location: SE PA/ Chesapeak Bay
A 'roller' is a point load as the load (mast in this case ...) is tangent ... and in contact w/ the roller at only one point .... this can result in a 'dent' ... hence the reason to eliminate the rollers on a H-18 trailer and replace them w/ 'bunks'/cradles (covered in non water-absorbent material ...)

The same principle applies to the mast ... the more surface area the mast cradle has the better (up to a point ...)

also ... as you trailer the boat on the road the mast acts as a load bearing member of the force triangle of the trailer==> mast step==> mast ... as the mast is the hypotenuse of the triangle ... the trailer flexes up&down ... and that causes movement at the mast step & caddie since the mast is non-compressible ... therefore you should use some non water-adsorbent padding ... and tie that wonderful caddie on somehow ...

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 6:16 pm 
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Location: Charlottesville, VA
You should pad the mast where it touches anything solid, simple as that.

I got tired of shredding (or wearing through) old life jacket pads and just bought the Hobie cradle for the rear crossbar. Overpriced, but it works like a charm. Wish I'd bought it years ago.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 10:32 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 29, 2011 4:27 pm
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Location: Central Oregon
Folded up old towel, and a rubber bungee cord.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 5:15 am 
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Location: Charlottesville, VA
hobiesrock wrote:
Folded up old towel, and a rubber bungee cord.


I hope I never have to return to those days... :)

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 21, 2013 12:16 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2010 6:10 am
Posts: 119
Location: Plum Island, MA
Out of curiosity, what holds the mast carrier in place while trailering? I'd like a photo of everything tied up.

Thanks,

Lee


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 21, 2013 5:38 am 
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Location: Tuscaloosa, AL
I just ran a bungee cord up and over the mast, kinda crisscrossed. Had a lanyard also just in case something happened. I towed it 5 hours each way to the beach and back last may. No Issues.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 21, 2013 6:17 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 28, 2007 11:23 am
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Location: Lake Norman NC
the bow stops are already pre drilled and I put rope tie downs into these holes also drilled some extra holes for some extra ties just in case My design was tested from Denver to Edisto Beach 200 miles each way with no problems at all. The carrier is also a good rest for the mast when rigging
Former Hobie Admiral Gary


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 02, 2017 1:17 pm 
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Location: Rockford, IL
sxrracer wrote:
Tie a rope to the rear Tie Off point for the traveler line, then go up and over then pull it through the traveler cleat.......... Boom. Tied Down.


That's the method I used with a home made mast cradle. Mine was designed similar to the shown rubber one, but made of wood. This one made from bow stops is a great idea! Simple, cheap, and easy.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 03, 2017 3:55 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 02, 2016 4:35 am
Posts: 202
Location: Opelika/Lake Martin, Alabama
Wow, I really like this idea. My boat came with a thing called a "mast caddie" for mounting the mast to the rear crossbar and that thing is a real pain in the butt. It and the tiller crossbar fight for the same space and I have since started using a life jacket on the rear crossbar instead. I want to make this!!!!

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1984 H16 Yellow Nationals, "Yellow Fever"
Lake Martin, 'Bama.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 03, 2017 8:45 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 18, 2017 6:37 pm
Posts: 26
Location: Lake Isabella, CA
I like the various ways people have come up with their own mounts for the mast and thought I'd share mine.
I was not happy with the hard rubber V bow stopper and carpet covered metal mast holder on the stern that came with my boat so I made new mounts out of foam yoga blocks which I think have the perfect density for this application. I had just replaced the mast base so with the old one I had the template to cut out the block so they perfectly hug the mast on three sides.
I then cut it out to fit in the metal V brackets up front and cut out the shape of the traveler track and cleat on the rear, now my mast is locked in secure, doesn't rotate during trailering and I feel has much better dampening to reduce and spread the forces.
I step the mast on the beach so I also covered the front rail of the tramp with thin carpet to avoid any scratches when I move the mast from the front bracket to the tramp, on the rear I move the bungees from around the mast to just around the foam block so I can slide the mast without moving the block. Generally I don't need to travel far to sail but this winter when I head to Baja I'll use stronger straps instead of bungees.
It works just great for me.
Costs $11 from amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NA ... UTF8&psc=1


Image




Image

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Last edited by Lost Roadie on Wed Oct 11, 2017 8:26 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 07, 2017 7:53 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 02, 2016 4:35 am
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Location: Opelika/Lake Martin, Alabama
That's a great idea using those foam yoga blocks also, I guess it's true when they say, necessity is the mother of invention! :D

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1984 H16 Yellow Nationals, "Yellow Fever"
Lake Martin, 'Bama.


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