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PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 3:12 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2010 9:49 am
Posts: 403
Location: Point Lookout, Maryland
The post date is September 23rd and I received it in the mail today. It contains:

- Shock cord kit
- Replacement gudgeon screws and Loctite
- Replacement drum bolt
- Replacement line segment
- Replacement rudder pin
- Replacement o-rings for the main hull and two amas

The enclosure directs us to the following installation video:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aNoSAUryLuo[/youtube]

The written instructions cover 5 steps and are both clearly written and profusely illustrated with B&W photos. I'll work on it as soon as I'm able to have enough daylight to do so. I've watched the video now and must say it's as complete as I could possibly ask for.

To Matt and the rest of the Hobie crew - a sincere thank you. Cindy and I are very impressed with your customer service. I have been a satisfied customer since 1986 and will continue to be so.

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Mitch
    2010 Tandem Island
    2010 Revolution
    Chesapeake Bay and Eastern Shore
My sailing blog
Our sailing videos


Last edited by whosyerbob on Mon Sep 27, 2010 3:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 3:45 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 18, 2009 2:07 pm
Posts: 324
Location: Saint Johns, Florida
Mitch,

Didn't you get the O rings for the drain plugs?

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Jerry D.
St. Johns, Florida
2010 TI
2008 AI


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 3:55 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2010 9:49 am
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Location: Point Lookout, Maryland
Yes - and I've edited the original post to reflect that.

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Mitch
    2010 Tandem Island
    2010 Revolution
    Chesapeake Bay and Eastern Shore
My sailing blog
Our sailing videos


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 5:06 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 2:25 pm
Posts: 2863
Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
Thanks for that Mitch (and Hobie for the temporary fix.) 8)
I've just watched the video and it seems simple enough.
I launch in shallow water a bit and I'm hoping the bungee can be fitted and removed when on the water kneeling on the rear deck.
If not then I'm wondering if it may be possible to remotely fit/remove it using a short line attached to the webbing tab?
If the bungee and post were reversed so the bungee was on the rudder blade and the post was mounted on the housing then it may be possible to pull the bungee up and over the post. The line would have no tension once the bungee was hooked up so it shouldn't affect the steering.
I don't know when the kits will arrive downunder but it's something I'll be looking at.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 7:04 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2010 5:00 pm
Posts: 395
Location: Port Macquarie, Australia
Good idea Stringy. I can live with fitting the bungee whilst launching, but would sure like some way to unhook it before landing. I'll be interested to hear what you think once you get the kit. 8)

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 2:30 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 3:39 pm
Posts: 89
Location: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA
I got my TI yesterday and now understand what was wrong causing breaking/loss of steering. The fix done by Hobie Australia was old/wrong and caused a problem similar to what I think people have been experiencing. The one posted by Hobie is correct and works!!!!

The rudder pin I see makes a difference and is required....Wonder when/if I can get a spare in the meantime????

The question I have is if the channel the rudder sits in when down was 1/2"-3/4" deeper would this not solve the problem?? The rudder seems to flex up just enough (probably the stretch of the cables) JUST enough to enable it to pop out of the channel. ONLY just enough though....

I know there is a permanent fix coming but wondering if this type of idea would still allow the fold and stow to work for now????

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 11:31 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2010 9:49 am
Posts: 403
Location: Point Lookout, Maryland
Just got finished installing the temp fix. It was a piece of cake. I re-read the instructions several times, watched the video again as I was going through each step and had no problems whatsoever with making everything look like the end result should and working correctly.

Thanks, Hobie! I look forward to when the permanent fix arrives sometime after the first of the new year!

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Mitch
    2010 Tandem Island
    2010 Revolution
    Chesapeake Bay and Eastern Shore
My sailing blog
Our sailing videos


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2010 9:25 am 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 15026
Location: Oceanside, California
angusisthedevil wrote:
The question I have is if the channel the rudder sits in when down was 1/2"-3/4" deeper would this not solve the problem??


The twisting rotation of the blade would not allow the deeper channel. When down in the designed stop position the blade is straight with the water flow. Further rotation down on the rotation plane would move the blade out of column.

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Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
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Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 2:48 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 05, 2010 3:39 pm
Posts: 89
Location: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA
Matt

You are correct in the swing action interfering but what I did was make a little wooden piece as a test to see if it was possible to work.

Effectively what I did (in test) was to make the channel longer by about 15mm and then a radius to an angle out to the port side so it acts as a guide to guide the rudder into a now longer channel.

Have only done it with a linished block of ply I made to prove the principle that I vice gripped onto the rudder post and it seems to work to guide the rudder in now to a deeper channel! Wonder if this will stop it popping out????

I might look to go further and make a proper piece if I can fix it without issue. (time permitting)

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