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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2003 6:46 pm 
Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Tue Aug 05, 2003 5:38 pm
Posts: 6
Location: North Carolina
Hey everyone
I just had my first outing on a recently purchased 1981 H-16 and have a few questions about the adventure.
We were on a lake and when other boats wake hit us from the sides the mast shook pretty violently. I have experienced this on other boats before, but this seemed worse. What is the norm for this? How tight should the shrouds be?
The guy I bought it from said he used the bitter end of the main sheet to use for the traveler. He laced it thru the traveler and then tied a figure 8 in it. So there no longer is a bitter end of the main sheet. It works but seems awkward.
What is the advice out there for this rigging?
Also has anyone tried any of the solo masting rigs that are for sale in the Hobie catalogue?
thanks to all.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2003 7:43 pm 
Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Wed Jun 04, 2003 10:58 pm
Posts: 14
Location: Hong Kong
Once rigged, the shroud tension is based on the tension put through the jib, it sounds like you don't have the jib tensioned up properly if the mast is shaking violently.

I'm sure the experts can provide you with more information regarding the exact shroud length and the hole on the shroud plates that you should use so that you can get the optimum amount of mast rake, etc, but assuming that when you bought the boat it had been rigged up properly, it should just be a case of getting some tension in the jib.

I always work on the principle when hoisting the jib to make it tight enough so that there is approx 6 inches of lateral movement in the shrouds if you give them a shake. I find that keeps the rig fairly tight and should solve the problem.

As for the mainsheet, yes the bitter end should be threaded through the traveller and stopped off. It may feel strange at first, but it's fine once you are used to it.

Hope that helps.


PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2003 5:48 am 
I also am new to the H16. I rig mine with the shrouds in the 3rd hole from the bottom and then tighten the jib to take up the slop in the side shrouds.I've flipped the boat and not been de-masted so i think I'm doing ok. I purchased the gin pole that goes onto the bottom of the mast to stabilize during stepping. I think it's great.I rig in a parking lot full of boats, windsurfers, cars, trailers,kite guys and beach bums.Knowing that the mast is not going to get away from me makes the riging process so much easier.I bought mine from Murray's .it was around $140.00 + shipping.Worth every nickle to me.
I would suggest checking your mast base and count the retaining rivets.Mine had two and prior to buying the gin pole, I stepped it without the mast being fully in the socket and tore out one rivet and elongated the other. I have since added 4 more stainless size 6-6 rivets to add support. Good luck and if you buy the gin pole, drop me a line if the initial rigging is confusing. Mark

 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2003 8:20 am 
Authorized Hobie Dealer

Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2003 7:35 pm
Posts: 1369
Location: 315 N. Hwy 79 Panama City Beach, FL 32413 850-235-2281
We run the shrouds in the 3rd hold from the bottom and the Jib is pined in the 2nd hole from bottom of the forestay 10 hole adjuster. 6 inches of play in the shrouds seams to be a bit much, I was thinking 2-3 inches was sufficient, but I could be wrong. The way you have the Mainsheet run may seam funny but it is by far the only way to do it. You only have one rope to hang on to, worse case scenario you and always work from one end to the other, rather than going in off the trap to get the other rope dragging behind yea.

Brad Stephens
Authorized Hobie/Vanguard Dealer
Panama City Beach, FL

PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2003 12:14 pm 
Site Admin

Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 12054
Location: Oceanside, California
There cannot be a correct shroud adjuster hole / pinned position for the 16 shrouds and forestay because there have been changes to wire lengths and mainsheet block systems over the years, so I have a basic concept for rigging that works for every Hobie 16.

First - The 16 sails best with as much mast rake aft as you can get. This helps the boat point better and keeps the bows up to help prevent pitch poleing.

Second - Mainsheet systems vary, so how much mast rake aft you can achive is determined by what block system you have. Too much rake aft and you cannot sheet the mainsail properly.

The basic concept is to sheet in the main and have the boom blocks touch or nearly touch the traveler blocks when the sail is sheeted at maximum. The rig streatches a bit when sailing so best if there is a small gap.

Rig the boat as you normally would and sheet the main tightly... as tight as you would for the conditions. If there is a gap between the mainsheet boom blocks and the set on the traveler car... you can rake aft more. Unsheet, loosen the jib halyard, have someone hang on the trapeze wire on one side and adjust the shrouds down a hole or two. Repeat on the other side. Retension the jib halyard. Check the block gap again. Repeat the process as needed.

If you get the mast too far aft for your hardware... you will not be able to sheet the sails properly. They will be too loose.

Forestay pin hole in the bridle adjuster is irrevalant. once the jib is tensioned, the forestay goes slack. Some boats require a second 10 hole adjuster to get enough length to allow for the maximum mast rake desired.

Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA

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