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PostPosted: Tue Nov 30, 2010 3:26 pm 
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I finally got around to fixing a soft spot on my H21SC this weekend. It was on top of the port hull, forward of the front crossbar. It covered an area about 16" long by 9" wide, and I was able to get the git rot to come out of all but 3 of my breather holes (out of about 10 total).

My question is, do I need to be overly concerned that I didn't get it to all of the holes? I'm fairly certain that it got close. If so, what is the preferred method for finishing the job, now that the original epoxy has cured.

It's been 2 days now, so I'm going to check the firmness of the fix this afternoon. Should it be absolutely solid all the way through?

Finally, assuming the repair is successful, should I still avoid stepping on that part of the hull, or should it be strong enough to support my weight?

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Todd
H21 SC


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 12:45 pm 
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Sounds like the last breathers were not within the delamination area. If you missed a spot, you can re-do the smaller area.

The resin should be fully hard within hours if used in proper temperature conditions.

You can step on a properly repaired area. Nice thing about the Git Rot is the pliability. It won't crack.

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Hobie Cat USA
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 05, 2010 10:06 pm 
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Thanks Matt! I feel much better now.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 4:23 am 
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More and wider lamination problems?
I'm a newcomer with an old ragged Hobie 16. Having read some of the discussions concerning delamination and it's repairing I have a further question.
The softspots most topics describe is familar to me; actually soft plastic, hollow sound and so on. I have such a soft spot at the top of one hulls. I've seen it on other plastic boats and I've repaired it before.
But in this passed "premiere Hobie-season" I practiced to straight a capsized boat and found the hullside very soft but in a different way. Almost the whole inner side of the hull was soft or more correct, extreme thin, when standing on it in our attempts to righting the boat. The feeling was "it will crack!" I didn't but the feeling was extremely unpleasant.
Is the Hobie 16 hull made in the same way all around, that is, sandwich all around?
If not, can the layers of fiberglass loosen from the styren?
Have anyone experienced the same "soft" hullside as I described and what can I do to mend the hull?
/Mats Borg
Stockholm, Sweden


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 6:34 am 
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Location: Lititz, PA/Somers Point, NJ
Mats,
I just repaired my '73 with a soft spot that was about 3' long and 1' wide. It was on the starbord hull outside towards the bow. When i bought the boat this past fall i noticed the paint was crazed and at the time figured it was a crappy paint job. after i got it home i found it was actually the start of delam. The hardest part of the repair was getting the courage to drill holes in my boat. I pulled the hull off so i could lay it on its side, which made it much easier to fill the area with epoxy.

The hulls and deck are all sandwiched glass, foam, glass. Except the keel which is solid. Check out this video and you get an idea of contruction:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEZJd-LpUws[/youtube]

You will add weight to the hull when you start pumping epoxy in but if its an older boat that you are just playing around with it probably won't matter too much.

I know alot of guys here will say your hull is toast but I'm from the school of trying to fix it before i give up completely and buy a new hull (I'm cheap).

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'73 hobie 16 restored 2011
'00 Seaswirl fishin boat


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 10:14 am 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
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Location: Jersey Shore
Quote:
I know alot of guys here will say your hull is toast but I'm from the school of trying to fix it before i give up completely and buy a new hull (I'm cheap).


It all depends on how bad the damage is and how much time and expense you want to put into it (remember your time is worth something too). If a significant percentage of your hull is delaminated and its going to cost hundreds of dollars worth of epoxy and gelcoat to get it rebonded and looking good, plus hours worth of time and the end result is a hull that gains 20lb, then its probably not worth attempting a repair - the hull is toast. If its just a small area of delam that can be easily rebonded in a couple hours, then for sure, do the fix.

sm


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 12:26 pm 
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Thank's for answer.
Okey, the hull i sandwich all over. That means that my experience of very soft inside of the hull when practicing righting the boat (it turned into a horror-ballet when I tried to find a solid area as well att getting the boat righted...) indicates a state of toast... The area is far wider than 3' x 1'.
Okej, a lot of epoxi and a lot of holes. I know the procedure and it seems I can estimate the thickness of the hulltop but does anyone know if the thickness of hullsides are the same?
Reelknotty; I'm from the school of trying in general. I may try to use closed-cell foam as an alternative. I think you wrote about it in another topic.
I wish the hc16 was like my swedish S30; 3,8ton of glassfibre with sandwich only to find in the deck...
Mats


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 12:34 pm 
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Location: Lititz, PA/Somers Point, NJ
SRM your right. I have had my times when i spent alot of time and money only to not get the result i wanted and bought new anyway.

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'73 hobie 16 restored 2011
'00 Seaswirl fishin boat


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