If you want to do the work to fix the mast problem I came up with a solution that should work if you don't want to put on front and back mast stays. What I would do is take a 1/4 thick bar of aluminum maybe 3/4 to 1 inch wide (depending on what you can find at Lowes). You will need a piece 6 or 7 ft long. What I would do then is carefully bend one end so it follows the bow contour on the inside of the hull right up to the top so the top edge is touching the inside of the hull at the top. Then run the metal up the center bottom inside the hull so it is pinched between the mast holder base and the bow tightly.
There are a couple ways to add the epoxy, one is just lay in epoxy clay and the other way is make a small dam with kids modeling clay (or playdough), and pour in liquid epoxy (be careful with the heat though). Basically what you want to do is put in a 1/2 to 1 inch thick by about 4 inches wide piece of epoxy between the back of the mast holder and the front edge of the mirage drive pocket. I would spray the mast pocket with silicone before you start so the epoxy doesn't stick to it. What this does is takes the extreme force generated by the fulcrum effect on the mast and distributes it to a much larger area harmlessly. With the left over epoxy you can form a little mound over the aluminum just in front of the mast holder make sure you can still access the nut. In the front of the mast holder you only have to mound up a strip around 6 inches away from the mast holder over and around the aluminum. If your using the epoxy clay (recommended), you could also press in a wad at the tip of the bow on the inside to kind of re-enforce the bow, and hold the aluminum rigid in place. This is quite a bit of work but I think to be nessessary if you want to put extra sails on the boat. If you ever sell the boat it's all easily removed (epoxy doesn't stick to the polyethylene hull).
Also because the bow is kind of weak around the front hatch, it would probably be a good idea to make braces in a V shape between the bow tip and the ends of the front AKA brace (strongest point on the boat). If you look at the pics of my bow sprit you can see them, there also might be some pics floating around of Hobies design that was used in this years 2011 EC challenge.
The mast on the TI is mounted very far forward, and if you are thinking of adding a spinnaker eventually, while your at it making the bow brace you might as well design it so you can convert it into a bow sprit later on ( I know you want to LOL). In my opinion running a huge spinnaker is the ultimate experience and for sure the most fun part of sailing on any boat, there's just something about it thats compelling, especially if it's brightly colored. It's even more fun if you can furl it in and out so it can be launched and snuffed in a couple seconds single handed, you will definately use it all the time ( I know I do) now I have mine on a furler.
Even with the structural re-enforcements below deck, I'm still thinking a back stay (with 1/4" stretchy nylon) would still be a good idea. It equalizes the force of the jib which acts as a front stay to keep the mast straight up. If your side stays can keep the mast straight you might be ok with just them, but looking at your pic, they appear to be mounted too far forward to be able to counter any forward force. I have my side stays hooked on a 1/2 inch dia stainless bar about 12 inches forward of the mast top, they clear the mainsail a little better, and allows the mainsail to go side to side to spill air when needed, but the jib is held tight on center. I didn't use rigid line on anything, this allows the mast top to tip and bend some, but as the force increases the tension on the stays increases protecting the weakness in the mast base design.
Hope this helps