Tranporting Outback on Thule XSporter truck rack

Lots of people looking for options on transporting their Hobies - thought I'd share mine.
I like transporting our Outback and Sport upright, and find that the Malone sea-wing carriers conform to the Hobie hull shape well, and mount on the Thule cross-bars well. I like the Thule XSporter racks, because I can lower both front and rear racks below the cab level, to reduce wind noise when their not being used.
I've mounted a 'U-Bolt' to the front sea-wing, to which I've added some 24" rubber trucker bungees, and slipped on two short pieces of rubber hose as cushions. The hose-covered U-bolt fits in the empty Mirage Drive well (with the hose sleeves preventing rub damage), and the rubber bungees easily stretch and attach to the truck rack hold-downs, with their S-hooks, providing a snug fit. Across the rear seawing, I've just used a single bungee. For highway travel, I double up the system with rope as a safety measure - but I've never had a rubber bungee break or release yet. I just replace them when they begin to crack from exposure. Secured through the Mirage-drive well, I find I don't need a bow-line to the front of the truck.
It's a clean, quick tie-down method. It's a bit of a grunt getting the kayaks bow up on the rack's rear cross-bar to start the loading process, but it's doable - even for an old f@rt like me. When the arthritis is acting up and it's particularly daunting, I just lower the rear Thule XSporter bar to its lowest setting, lift the kayak bow onto it, slide the kayak on and over 'centre' of the front sea-wing (resting lightly on the front cab of the truck), lift the rear Thule bar to it's full height setting, and pull the kayak back to its travel position - with the U-bolt in the mirage-drive well.
Hope it makes sense!

Very nice!

I really wanted to get the Thule Xsporter, but it will not work with my Nissan Titan Utili-track system. I can fit 2 kayaks in the bed, but I would love to be able to have the kayaks on a rack and use the truck bed for gear or be able to take more than 2 kayaks. The OEM overhead rack that works with the Utili-track system has a load rating of a measly 125lbs.

Anyone know of another Thule-like system that works with Nissan's Utilitrack?

Cheers,
yak_n_fish

I'm surprised the Sea Wings worked for the Outback as wide as it is. I tried the Sea Wings on my Oasis and it kept sliding over on its side no matter how tight I tied it down. I ended up taking them back and getting the Pro Saddles.

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2011 Oasis with Sail and AMA's
2011 Necky Looksha 14

I also use the Seawing for my Outback. When we go out in a big group, we actually load 4 Outbacks with a stacker. Check it out:

Thumper1 thanks for the excellent explanation and pictures. I have a Hobie Outback and Jackson Cuda for the wife. I recently ordered a Thule Xsporter Pro without knowing which saddles would work best for the Hobie. I have been searching and searching on how to set up the Xsporter. I really like what you did.

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laketime

A hazard of using rubber bungie cords is that if they break or a hook slips off, they can fly back and hit you in the eye. It would be safer to strap your kayak down with a pair of nine foot long straps. From the right side of the vehicle, throw the end of the strap over to the left side of the vehicle, run it under the bar, throw the end of the strap back to the right side of the vehicle, run it under the bar, and then through the buckle. Position the buckle about a foot above the bar so you can pull downwards when tightening the strap. Double over the end of the strap and slide it between your kayak and the strap to keep the end from flapping around.

2X on the rubber bungie cords. I see those things broken and lying along the hiway all the time.. Be carfeful out there. Another bit of advice is to have the front and back of the yak secured so it would not slip forward or backward if hit by another car or truck. Good Luck

Thx for the warnings
As I mentioned, I check the bungees regularly for wear or 'checking', fastening through the Mirage Drive hole negates the need for a bow line in the event of a sudden stop, and I double them up with rope to be on the safe side when traveling at speed.
The main reasons I like bungees versus ropes or straps are that
1 - Straps stretch when wet, and rope knots tighten when the load bounces against them - both conditions loosen the kayak, which give it even more 'bounce' on the next bump, making the problem progressively worse.
2 - People often strap down their kayaks very tight - tight enough to deform the hull, especially when the sun comes out on a warm day.

I find the right sized bungees hold the kayak snuggly, yet if bouncing over a particularly vicious pot-hole, they have enough 'give' to allow the kayak to bounce up slightly, and then immediately snug it back into position. Rope or straps loosened on a pot-hole don't 're-tighten' themselves, and the tendency is to crank them down too tight initially to counter this problem. Ropes or straps tied lightly can be used for insurance in addition for holding the load against catastrophe, but for primary security, I prefer the black bungees.