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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 2:09 pm 
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Cool - thanks Dan!

How do you like seeing Tony's swivel captains chair? I know you had wanted to do this with the "Pelagic" project boat.


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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 4:56 pm 
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Is there an easy way to make the AI more buoyant? In choosing teak with 4 slats, I have added quite a bit of weight. It is still OK, but I'm starting to regret going with 3/4" lumber. I think 1/2" would have been fine provided I used a center brace running the length of it. The hakas I made are super strong... overkill.


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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 5:34 pm 
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Of course there is.

http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=33992&start=0&hilit=batboat

You may not like the price tag though. :lol:


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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 5:50 pm 
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Have you weighed your Haka Kevin? Surely it's not heavy enough to materially affect the overall buoyancy of the boat. Even a moderately heavy Haka is going to make the boat seem unbalanced if you only have one (I've tried it).

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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 8:08 pm 
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Like Chris says, 2 should balance things nicely. On the water it seems to make the boat less rocky, I think.

Mines are 3 slats, weighing about 12lb ea. Maybe 2x what dry tramps weigh.

It's my big Okole that is too heavy.


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PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2012 11:19 am 
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Location: Hawaii, Big Island
Chair about the same except more polished then my crude rotation.

Agree you need ama for stability. A bit tippy otherwise with higher CG.

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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 6:28 pm 
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I'd say they weigh in at about 20 to 25 lbs each.


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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 7:20 pm 
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Then you are right, that is a little too much.

My 3-slats weigh just 10 lbs each.

Batman's 4-slat, "Ikea quality", 400 lb load-tested,versions for the TI3 weigh just under 15 lbs each.


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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 8:41 am 
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Location: Jacksonville, Florida
It is the teak that makes it heavier. The one pictured, with longitudinal brace, weighs just under 20 lbs. It will hold me and you and a dog named Boo. I've almost finished its twin, but have not added that long brace yet. That one is just under 17 lbs.

What if I made a pair using 1/2" teak lumber and used 3 longitudinal braces? I think it would be plenty strong and weigh maybe 14 lbs. I could sell the Big Kahuna pair I already made or sell pairs of Mo Bettah (lighter) hakas for fun and profit. Let me know if anyone would be interested in buying. We're talking about several hundred bucks plus shipping and it isn't brain surgery making them, so I am not holding my breath.

I'm going to carve dolphin and loggerhead turtle designs into mine. I've seen a lot of dolphins while kayaking here in Florida and 2 days ago I was down in the keys and spotted a massive loggerhead turtle that must have been 3 feet across. I've just got to pay tribute to them.

Aloha. I lived on Oahu for 4 years back in the 80's, by the way.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 6:40 pm 
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Location: Cape Coral, FL
NOHUHU mentioned that I needed a tether if I use the hakas...

well, I had one in the works just hadn't finished it yet and that was the push I needed to get on with it...

Image

quick release hook attaches to the ring on the front of my pfd and the other end clips to the furling line or the lifelines I have installed. It's about 8' of tubular webbing with a 4' core of shock cord to keep it manageable.

cheers,

j

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 7:42 pm 
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Location: Kailua 96734
Thanks J.

At some point, everyone should wear a leash. When you do, you'll notice it gets hung up as you hike around and have more fun on the boat. It's only natural. If you swear by them, you're bound to swear at them too.

So the trick is coming up with a system and location that hampers you the least. It's all good, but a quick release harness and a quick draw knife are great to have.

Kevin, my Hakas are 3 slats with 4 joists. (Plenty nuff)
Batman's are 4 slats with 4 joists and a truss. (Overkill for supermodels,..) :roll:


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 8:59 pm 
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Location: Marietta Ga.
chrisj wrote:
Aren't we going around in circles a bit here? The aluminium ramps weigh 16# each. If you add some plywood decking, you essentially end up with a wooden deck with an aluminium subframe which weighs about the same as a braced wooden deck, is less attractive and costs more.


I have not paid much attn to this conversation since I had tramps and was fairly satisfied with them, then I started trying to fish with my grandson and got tired of pulling treble hooks from the tramp.

I read all of the posts and borrowed ideas from many of you to make my own Hakas. I too like the idea of low to no maintenance, so the ladder and foam panels looked interesting just too bulky for my tast. The Ramps however held great possibility in my mind.

Stringy & Chris, I think you dismissed the ramps too soon. Each ramp weighs 8Lbs. before any modifications. If desired you could reduce weight ~2 - 3 lbs by removing several cross members and drilling strategic holes (do we really need to hold over 600lbs on a single Haka). Then there is the assumption that you would have to use wood as decking material, I own a sign shop and one of the materials we use every week is called "Alumalite" http://www.laminatorsinc.com/sign-panel ... /alumalite same weight as .040 aluminum but 50 times stronger and extreemly weather resistant. a panel cut to fit in the ramps mentioned would weigh 2-3lbs.

My Hakas weigh 10.5 lbs each and I have yet to drill a hole or remove any crossmembers (I am not getting any lighter and might need the extra 400+ lbs of capacity in the future). The ramps have a lip on the edge which gives a nice finish edge to the panels. I used 1" strips of 1/4" polycarbonate heated and bent to shape for the front hooks. (another very strong, very light and almost unbreakable sign making product) the panels are held to the frame with 3m VHB tape and Lexel adhesive (more sign making stuff). I mounted the hooks and clips paralell and far enough apart to fit at the extreem hiking position, the hooks still grip when close to the hull. I will have to relocate the paddle strap and clamp as they are now in the way.

I feel very confident that if someone wanted to get agressive they could remove all crossmembers except for the ends and drill away enough to get the total weight to 7lbs or less.

I bench tested (really ground with two 2 x 4s) the new Haka or sign seat by jumping up and down on it and my 198lbs created zero deflection or damage.

I plan on testing the rig next weekend as it is now almost mid night on Sunday. Project took ~ 4 hours because I kept bouncing between store, my shop and house for materials.

http://s1081.photobucket.com/albums/j35 ... em%20HAKA/

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 9:28 am 
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Location: Central Florida
Wow Louis, very professional looking. Looks too smooth though, you might slip off? Maybe some padding or non-slip for the butt. :) You've got some nice materials to build with.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 9:55 am 
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Location: Tampa Bay, FL
Louis wrote:
chrisj wrote:
Aren't we going around in circles a bit here? The aluminium ramps weigh 16# each. If you add some plywood decking, you essentially end up with a wooden deck with an aluminium subframe which weighs about the same as a braced wooden deck, is less attractive and costs more.


I have not paid much attn to this conversation since I had tramps and was fairly satisfied with them, then I started trying to fish with my grandson and got tired of pulling treble hooks from the tramp.

I read all of the posts and borrowed ideas from many of you to make my own Hakas. I too like the idea of low to no maintenance, so the ladder and foam panels looked interesting just too bulky for my tast. The Ramps however held great possibility in my mind.

Stringy & Chris, I think you dismissed the ramps too soon. Each ramp weighs 8Lbs. before any modifications. If desired you could reduce weight ~2 - 3 lbs by removing several cross members and drilling strategic holes (do we really need to hold over 600lbs on a single Haka). Then there is the assumption that you would have to use wood as decking material, I own a sign shop and one of the materials we use every week is called "Alumalite" http://www.laminatorsinc.com/sign-panel ... /alumalite same weight as .040 aluminum but 50 times stronger and extreemly weather resistant. a panel cut to fit in the ramps mentioned would weigh 2-3lbs.

My Hakas weigh 10.5 lbs each and I have yet to drill a hole or remove any crossmembers (I am not getting any lighter and might need the extra 400+ lbs of capacity in the future). The ramps have a lip on the edge which gives a nice finish edge to the panels. I used 1" strips of 1/4" polycarbonate heated and bent to shape for the front hooks. (another very strong, very light and almost unbreakable sign making product) the panels are held to the frame with 3m VHB tape and Lexel adhesive (more sign making stuff). I mounted the hooks and clips paralell and far enough apart to fit at the extreem hiking position, the hooks still grip when close to the hull. I will have to relocate the paddle strap and clamp as they are now in the way.

I feel very confident that if someone wanted to get agressive they could remove all crossmembers except for the ends and drill away enough to get the total weight to 7lbs or less.

I bench tested (really ground with two 2 x 4s) the new Haka or sign seat by jumping up and down on it and my 198lbs created zero deflection or damage.

I plan on testing the rig next weekend as it is now almost mid night on Sunday. Project took ~ 4 hours because I kept bouncing between store, my shop and house for materials.

http://s1081.photobucket.com/albums/j35 ... em%20HAKA/


THANK YOU!!

i feel some redemption for the ATV ramp idea now, which out of all the options, seemed to make the best sense for me being a big boy and not wanting flex!

it felt like i got dismissed for even suggesting ideas which at the time were still ideas..hence me not even commenting on the subject anymore..

which ramps did you wind up getting and using?

Quote:
Wow Louis, very professional looking. Looks too smooth though, you might slip off? Maybe some padding or non-slip for the butt. You've got some nice materials to build with.


yeah another thing i was thiking about with some padding of some sort...but the idea was dismissed pretty quickly as well.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 1:43 pm 
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Location: Terrigal NSW, Australia
Thrashie, I'm sorry if you felt dismissed. That certainly wasn't my intention. We are all pooling our ideas to try and come up with the best design for a haka. We need to be able to critically evaluate each idea. Phil and I had this problem when we were developing the hammock design. We ended up corresponding by email so we could make constructive criticisms of each other's ideas without it looking like we were trying to score points off each other on the forum.
With regard to the ATV ramps, I followed NOHUHU's link and that site quoted the ramps as weighing 16# each. At that weight, they don't offer many advantages, but at 8# each, they are a far more attractive alternative.
Stringy has discussed in detail his method for padding his hakas and he doesn't seem to have been dismissed.

@Stringy: That Alumalite is available in Australia at $47.33 for a 1220 x 1830mm sheet. It doesn't wick water, so may be even better than the sheeting you are using.

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