Return to Hobie.com
Hobie Forums
It is currently Thu Mar 28, 2024 1:55 pm

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 40 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3
Author Message
PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 4:58 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Fri Jan 22, 2010 4:38 pm
Posts: 244
Location: Pittsboro NC
Dragging this out of the archives I know but...

The question referenced the set screws as plastic, is that for sure? Mine look and behave like metal and are well and truly jammed. Therefore my question is how to best remove the seized set screws and what part to replace them with? Any help appreciated

_________________
1985 Prindle 16


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 5:23 am 
Offline
Hobie Approved Guru

Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
Posts: 5197
Location: Detroit, MI
I had the same problem when I bought my 14 - someone thought they were being clever by replacing the plastic set screws with steel - with the boat used in salt water.

By the time I got the boat, there was no way to remove them. They were completely and truly fused to the aluminum casting.

Since they serve little purpose anyway, I just ground them flush to the casting with a Dremel tool.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 6:01 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Fri Jan 22, 2010 4:38 pm
Posts: 244
Location: Pittsboro NC
Thanks Mbounds, that was my next question. I will likely go with that and grind them flush, unless by some miracle I can heat and pull them. They look like a hex head, but none of my hex wrenches fit tightly enough to feel comfortable really pushing them. Are my aging eyes playing tricks on the type of head?

_________________
1985 Prindle 16


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 7:10 am 
Offline
Hobie Approved Guru

Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
Posts: 5197
Location: Detroit, MI
No, you're eyes are not playing tricks - it's a hex-head set screw. You'll strip out the head long before it moves.

The only way that I can think of to get it out is to drill it using a press and clamping the casting very securely. Even then, getting the right angle is tough. It's not worth the time.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 7:30 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Fri Jan 22, 2010 4:38 pm
Posts: 244
Location: Pittsboro NC
Thanks MB - I will dremmel and fugedaboudit :)

_________________
1985 Prindle 16


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 7:36 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2005 10:18 am
Posts: 778
Location: Virginia Beach VA
Since I started this thread a couple years ago I would just like to reiterate the use of plumbers teflon tape around the Delrin screws as opposed to the temporary benefit of grease or anti-seize. After two years and much salt and sand later my tensioner screws are turning as smoothly and easily as the day I rebuilt them. Hobie should do this at the factory.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 2:11 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Sat Dec 29, 2007 6:37 pm
Posts: 188
Location: Sechelt, BC, Canada... Sunshine Coast
thanks for the teflon tip... i drilled mine out... then burnt the scraps left behind and cleaned up the threads with a hunk of threaded pipe i think it was 3/4 inch....
one year in the ocean and they were seized again... next time i rebuild them i will try the teflon..... cheers

_________________
•Present boat -1998 Hobie 16 Solana Sails furling jib[/size]
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Feb 19, 2011 7:28 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Tue Oct 19, 2010 4:32 pm
Posts: 58
Location: Greenville, NC
Ditto here for the teflon tape. I considered using it but decided to just use a good bit of marine grease.
Thanks for the info.

_________________
Southeast of Disorder
'84 H16 Blue Hawaiian


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 9:08 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2011 8:16 am
Posts: 50
Location: West Michigan (Grand Rapids, Holland Area)
Recently made my own replacement screws with stainless steel set screws from mcmaster and a little bit of handy work.

Screws were less than $1.50 each, I bought 3 different lengths and three of each spent like $12.
Sanded down the end with a belt sander (set screws have a little cup on the end)
Drilled a hole with a drill press for water draining.

I only sail in fresh water so I'm not too worried about corrosion, I also used anti-seize to help prevent problems. I'll be able to get a lot more muscle turning these that those plastic ones.

To remove the old screws I used a 5/8" wood butterfly/spade bit then followed with a 3/4-10 tap (absolutely necessary) easy job.

Here are some pics:
Image
Image

_________________
Cesar (Cez) S.
H16 - "He gone!"


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 5:44 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2004 10:08 pm
Posts: 172
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Now that you're done with the easy part ...

just kidding. The rake adjustment screws are a joke. Mostly useful for setting how deep a hole you want in the front of your rudder. Ignore them and you'll be fine. Make sure that when your rudders are latched all the way down they are within 1/8" of the bottom of the rudder head. If that doesn't fix your weather helm then fill and redrill.

Good luck. I actually find working on boats and rudders fun.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 40 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Jump to:  
© Hobie Cat Company. All rights reserved.
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group