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PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2013 11:05 am 
Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2013 10:21 am
Posts: 3
Yup I am one of those new owners and am very happy to be part of the club. I am a very avid fisherman (Fresh and Saltwater) and this extends my opportunities to those hard to get places. My Yak came with an installed FF/GPS, Sail rudder and Turbo Fins.

I, as you would expect, have extensively modified my Jon boat and am chomping at the bit to do the same with my Outback.

So with no further adieu I have a few questions for all you experts out there.

1. I want to add some extra mesh pockets, Anchor Cleat and Pad Eyes
a. Nylon or Stainless for the Cleats and Pad eyes?
b. Screws, bolts or rivets? I think screws would be fine provided that I drill first and add some marine goop to the screw.
2. What are the essential mods that I really need to consider?


PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2013 12:37 pm 
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2012 7:16 pm
Posts: 160
Location: vero beach, fl
Before you put on a cleat, look at anchor trollys.


Cathedra Mea, Regulae Meae.

PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2013 2:04 pm 
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 5:17 pm
Posts: 675
Location: Auckland NZ
Personally I always use s/s fittings and if there is access to the inside of the boat I use bolts with washers and nyloc nuts. I was put off cheap marine fittings by numerous failures and near disasters years ago and have never looked back.

As to ESSENTIAL mods:

Top of the list comes a system for attaching everything that you do not want to lose overboard to your boat (sooner or later at worst you are going to turn over in the thing or at best drop something!).

I use thin, strong line (e.g. paracord) attached to one or other of the deck fittings with a tiny s/s springclip at the outboard end (or - less preferably - a line tied to the item with a s/s springclip to attach to a deck fitting).

For securing rods I tie a loop in a small length of thin, strong line, twist it into a figure 8 and then fold it in 2 so that there are 2 circles about the same size as the circle made by touching your finger tip to your thumb tip. I then insert the rod butt into these circles and slide the loops up the rod to the reel seat. I fit the reel so that the reel seat sits between the two circles of line with the crossover of the figure 8 on the other side of the rod (that way the loop cannot slide off the rod and if the loop is small enough it will not interfere with the reel). Then I can clip one of my static lines to the line on the rod to secure it.

This method is quick, cheap and unobtrusive in use: you need one static line with springclip per rod holder and one small loop of line for each rod you want to secure. As opposed to having a line with a clip on it dangling off every rod you own - the solution that I have seen some kayakfishers use. :roll:

Oh, and did I say it works - field tested by me!

More or less the same system can be used inside the boat to attach essential things you need to have at hand to the inside lip of the hatch flange (if you look there should be a couple of small holes in it & you can drill more). Things have a habit of sliding about inside the boat but if they are tied by a length of mono to the centre hatch you will always be able to put your hands on them if you need to.

As to other mods - I would forget them until you have experience of what works/doesn't work for you - you now have the essential ones IMO.

However you might want to consider investing time, thought and money at this stage in ensuring that you have on board adequate safety kit and drive spares, tools and the knowledge to use them so that you can be self-reliant on the water with respect to always being able to get back to where you started from even in the event of a drive failure or a 'total loss'. (You can go a long way in a Mirage Drive kayak in weather which would put off a paddler - but if the s and the fan come together and your drive fails would you be able to paddle your boat back into that wind ? N.B. you say yo have the sailing rudder? The sail kit gives you a third means of propulsion and it has saved me number of very long paddles in my Adventure over the years !)

Welcome to the gang !

PostPosted: Wed Jan 16, 2013 8:05 am 
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Fri Aug 13, 2010 8:32 am
Posts: 55
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
I rarely use SS fittings and prefer screws over bolts/nuts. reason being I'd much rather the fitting breaks or pulls loose than having a hole ripped in the hull of the yak.

I do like the self-sealing rivets from S2S: ... 4ulj940qb0

but their mailing charges make them quite expensive. haven't been able to locate them or anything similar locally.

PostPosted: Wed Jan 16, 2013 2:40 pm 
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Mon Apr 26, 2010 6:06 am
Posts: 734
Location: Amelia Island, FL
If you are around saltwater, never use anything but SS :!:

If you use screws or bolts it is easier to make modifications to your kayak. If you want to move an accessories, you simply remove the bolt/screw and either fill in with some poly that matches your kayak or you can simply put the screw/bolt back in the hole and tighten.

Rivots tend to tear and are almost impossible to remove if you should want to change things.

As far as adding accessories, start out slowly. Figure out which accessory you want to add and then go fishing. Play around placing it on the kayak while out. You will quickly learn where it should go.

You really didn't say how you will be using your new kayak. Saltwater/Inshore saltwater/rivers/lakes. Rigging will differ dependent upon use.

Good luck on rigging your kayak.

PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 5:21 am 
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Fri Feb 25, 2011 11:02 am
Posts: 164
Location: Central New York
Hello and welcome! I recommend a camera mount so you can post pictures of the lunkers.....or dinks.


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