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PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2013 3:52 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 11:19 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
My mate tried this one
http://aquachargepump.com/
He ended returning it as he forgot that he would have to go to the back hatch to turn it on :lol:

looks like the manual bilege pump we ae using is the same, just differen't branding on it.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2013 4:19 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 18, 2010 2:31 pm
Posts: 3062
Location: Kailua 96734
Probably a good thing. It's rated at ~300gph but only lasts 40 minutes!!

And it takes 12 hrs to charge?? Surprising.

Probably only enough juice to drain a full hull one time.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2013 4:46 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 11:19 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
yeah and 4x the price of the one i installed.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2016 1:22 pm 
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Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2016 7:11 pm
Posts: 56
Location: North Jersey/NYC
I got my electric bilge pump components ready to be installed. I decided on locating the Attwood 500Gph pump in the rear of my TI from personal experience and other members claiming water accumulate in the rear of the boat. My issue is where to install the discharge port. I am not using a check valve. I am considering using a rubber scupper valve to stop some of the water from coming back into the TI. At this point, I am thinking on drilling and placing the discharge port all the way in the back right behind the main sheet pulley.

Any thoughts / suggestions? Any member that rigged their yaks with electric bilge pump here? Can you share your install? How did you resolved/minimized water getting back into the hull from the discharge port when in rough sea?

Thank you for you help!


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2016 10:36 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:17 pm
Posts: 378
Location: Austin Texas
That's what check valves are used for in pump systems. You might test you pump to see if it has one built in. If not you can find a suitable check valve with a hose barb fitting on both sides to insert in the discharge tubing. Marine supply places carry them but you will need to select one suitable for the discharge pressure capability of the pump. The pump manufacturer may have one or be able to recommend an appropriate one.

Chris


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2016 9:12 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 01, 2006 1:38 pm
Posts: 83
I installed a whale Supersub 650 on my Oasis. For simplicity, and so I am in control of when the pump turns on, I went with a switched model rather than automatic. The pump is mounted to the hull bottom just forward of the aft seat hatch. I used heavy duty clear plastic tubing rather than the cheap leaky black corrugated stuff as it lasts forever and you can see what is going on or if water is trapped in the system. I mounted the drain as high as I could facing out to the right of the aft seat. I did not install a check valve since they do not work that well (slow seepage if inflow), at least the small cheap versions used in kayaks, they can prevent proper pump priming especially with centfrigal pumps, and if mounted at all below the outlet water can collect and remain in the system. Instead I installed an adjustable snaplock brass and rubber drain plug on the outside of the outlet, with a cord to a pad eye so it doesn't get lost. To pump I just remove the plug and flip the power switch which is also mounted beside the seat, and I can easily see the water leaving the outlet and when it stops. As it turns out this Oasis is much dryer in the hull than either of my Outfitters so I have only used the pump thus far for testing and the occassional flushing of the hull interior with fresh water.

Peter


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2016 11:03 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 02, 2015 9:59 am
Posts: 69
plfinch wrote:
I installed a whale Supersub 650 on my Oasis. For simplicity, and so I am in control of when the pump turns on, I went with a switched model rather than automatic. The pump is mounted to the hull bottom just forward of the aft seat hatch. I used heavy duty clear plastic tubing rather than the cheap leaky black corrugated stuff as it lasts forever and you can see what is going on or if water is trapped in the system. I mounted the drain as high as I could facing out to the right of the aft seat. I did not install a check valve since they do not work that well (slow seepage if inflow), at least the small cheap versions used in kayaks, they can prevent proper pump priming especially with centfrigal pumps, and if mounted at all below the outlet water can collect and remain in the system. Instead I installed an adjustable snaplock brass and rubber drain plug on the outside of the outlet, with a cord to a pad eye so it doesn't get lost. To pump I just remove the plug and flip the power switch which is also mounted beside the seat, and I can easily see the water leaving the outlet and when it stops. As it turns out this Oasis is much dryer in the hull than either of my Outfitters so I have only used the pump thus far for testing and the occassional flushing of the hull interior with fresh water.

Peter


What switch are you using ?


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2016 3:23 pm 
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Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Fri Dec 01, 2006 1:38 pm
Posts: 83
Tech wrote:
What switch are you using ?


This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AWR6NCY/

First I used layered heatshrink tubing to cover the switch assembly and reduce down to the diameter of the wires for added waterproofing. I also used a bit of marine sealing caulk on both sides of the hull opening during installation. The assembly is installed from inside the hull and the rubber boot screws on from the outside.

Peter


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2017 3:26 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2016 7:11 pm
Posts: 56
Location: North Jersey/NYC
Hi Fellas, I can't tell you how many hours I researched for a drain plug assembly like seeing on this thread. The closest thing I came up with is this plug from Amazon with a 1.25" opening you can fit the manual bilge tube through. The base is stainless steel, somewhat heavy, and I know will give me hard time bonding to the yak plastic. Here is what I got:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NA ... UTF8&psc=1
Any chance anyone here know of a full plastic/Nylon plug assembly I can use? West Marine offer non, and all my internet searches got nothing unless the opening is 1" or smaller which will not work for me.
Any advise would be appreciated.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 6:10 pm 
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Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2016 7:11 pm
Posts: 56
Location: North Jersey/NYC
Season is upon us here in the Northeast, and I am just almost done with my TI project. Following my bad experience, I have very little trust in Hobie's hatches design. The need for electric bilge pump turn a little more complex when I added a dry charging box, power for GPS, and laid the ground for lights. Although I don't have running light yet, I have a working toggle switch and plugs in the front and back.

First I had to prepare a wire harness running along the length of the boat. The harness is attached to the inside upper part of the TI by clips that are epoxied to the hull. All the plugs are water tight which needs a special crimping tool. The battery pack sits in the front, elevated and strapped to D rings epoxied to the hull and aluminum bar attached to the must receiver. The battery pack is made from Hobie's 7 Ah GPS battery and another 20 Ah I purchased from Amazon. I have enough juice to power all I need and than some. The pack is a bit heavy and I am considering upgrading to Lithium.

The bilge pump is an On / Off / Auto type with a float actuator. It is epoxied to the rear. The light and bilge toggle switches are mounted to a Hobie H rail. In spite of warning, the bilge outlet is located in the rear and is passing through a check valve. Should the pump fail, I rigged a manual bilge pump with a 1" hose which is matched to a small port in the hatch of the rear seat. This pump is attached to the rear seat. I think picture can described this a little better. Here goes:

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 7:11 pm 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Tue Jun 19, 2007 6:14 pm
Posts: 2994
Location: South Florida
Wow!

Keith

_________________
2015 AI 2, 2014 Tandem

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 9:37 pm 
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Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Wed Sep 30, 2009 12:25 pm
Posts: 144
Location: Georgia
The JB Weld people make a 2 part waterproof product that bonds to almost anything. Check it out.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 26, 2017 11:18 am 
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Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2016 7:11 pm
Posts: 56
Location: North Jersey/NYC
Just a little addition to my motor mount. I saw few users with this idea and wanted to solve the main sheet line from slapping my skull every time the sail change side. I also experienced the line getting tangle or catching the cooler box or whatever's stowed in the back. I think this will solve it with little added weight. Here are some pictures with the contraption assembled and folded for storage and transportation.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 1:26 am 
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Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Wed Oct 06, 2010 2:53 am
Posts: 275
Location: Sollentuna, Sweden, Europe
Hi all you engineers and designers!

I must say I am a little bit chocked over all equipment, gear and extra weight you load on these rather tiny boats.
The problem with a leaking front hatch should (in my way of thinking!) be solved by fixing the front hatch, not installing a bilge pump.
The installation of any eletrical equipment is complicated and risky due to level of water and moisture in boats.
I have followed this forum for a couple of years now and I admire all technical solutions and creative ideas but now I have developed a more reluctant point of view, especially on taking onboard heavy contructions and complicated installations.
Anything onboard that have an important function needs to be repairable on tour (if not at sea!).
Anything mounted/installed on deck/outside the hull is a possibilty to be tangled into and cause problems when things go wrong. And when they do go wrong it is often a combination of broken gear and false behavior.

Sail safe!

Best regards
thomas


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 7:14 am 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Tue Jun 19, 2007 6:14 pm
Posts: 2994
Location: South Florida
Kal-P-Dal wrote:
Hi all you engineers and designers!

I must say I am a little bit chocked over all equipment, gear and extra weight you load on these rather tiny boats.
The problem with a leaking front hatch should (in my way of thinking!) be solved by fixing the front hatch, not installing a bilge pump.
The installation of any eletrical equipment is complicated and risky due to level of water and moisture in boats.
I have followed this forum for a couple of years now and I admire all technical solutions and creative ideas but now I have developed a more reluctant point of view, especially on taking onboard heavy contructions and complicated installations.
Anything onboard that have an important function needs to be repairable on tour (if not at sea!).
Anything mounted/installed on deck/outside the hull is a possibilty to be tangled into and cause problems when things go wrong. And when they do go wrong it is often a combination of broken gear and false behavior.

Sail safe!

Best regards
thomas

Words of wisdom

+1

Keith

_________________
2015 AI 2, 2014 Tandem

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein


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