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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 6:58 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2012 2:34 pm
Posts: 118
Gas Yakker wrote:
SkiPro,

Nice. A few questions...

1. What are the spec's on that PWM? Is that one of those 30A chinese scooter controllers? I assume it's reversible? Looks like a 30lb motor, so about a 30A max draw through the controller?

2. What did you waterproof the flex tubing connections at the plug & motor shaft with? Looks like heat shrink tubing maybe?

3. How did you waterproof the pot in the tiller?

4. Do you have a killswitch? Don't see one...

Thanks!


I will see if I can find the PWM on eBay again. It's rated 30amps. It is Chinese. It is a 30 lb motor; Minnkota Endura C30. I plugged the top of the trolling motor with Plasti-Dip. Also used Plasti-Dip on the speed pot connections after I soldered them. Then I wrapped in self vulcanizing tape. I don't have a kill switch but there is a 40 amp thermal breaker. Here is a little closer view of my PWM including the wiring w/breaker. Looks like a bomb!! Ha!

You will notice some corrosion on the PWM. This has been in the ocean several times and my hull usually gets an inch or two of salt water in there due to the surf launches. When I get home, I open it up and spray it down with electric motor spray cleaner and scrub with an old tooth brush. I ought to use Plasti-Dip, or that spay leak stop stuff I see on infomercials.

Image


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 7:08 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2005 6:29 pm
Posts: 2763
Location: High Point, NC
You don't have to go below the centerline on the PA - as long as the position of the lower T-fitting puts it in a position where anything above it is a wider section of hull, which it will be on the PA, it'll work fine.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 7:11 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2011 7:12 pm
Posts: 184
Location: Columbia, MD
Thanks! Sure does look like a bomb :)

That does look like the chinese PWM's I've seen.

I was thinking of a killswitch as in "emergency disconnect" if you fall overboard or turtle with the motor running. Might be worth considering.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 7:34 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 27, 2009 1:47 pm
Posts: 195
SkiPro3:

Is that a Hobie Cat in pic #5? :lol: :lol: :lol:


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 11:00 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Wed Dec 23, 2009 1:56 pm
Posts: 13
Dear all,

Here's a link to a public Picasa photoalbum in which you can see my Hobie Adventure with the PVC motormount, it works great! Been on the water yesterday for the first try-out of the new mount. With the Minn Kota Endura 30 fed by a Lithium battery, I trolled for 13 kms on setting 1 or 2 before running out of power. I really like it! The whole outfit (motor plus battery) does not imbalance the Adventure at all.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1110036688 ... directlink

Cheers, Theo


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 1:00 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2005 6:29 pm
Posts: 2763
Location: High Point, NC
I'm glad you found the design useful.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 11:27 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 12, 2011 6:21 am
Posts: 157
kallitype wrote:
I made the Kirkman PVC mount, using my MinnKota 30# motor, on my 16ft Adventure, I get 2.1 mph on the lowest setting, and about 4.4 mph on 5, or high. Here's a pic----the last pic my little Fuji camera will ever take, it slipped its strap and went into the salt water...have it in a gallon jar with DRI-Z-AIR but I think it's a doorstop now.

Image


That looks sweet! one quick question you mention saltwater on your post, but isn't that the fresh water version of the minnkota?

If so how is it handling the saltwater? I would like get that 30# version but can only find it for freshwater.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 1:29 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2005 6:29 pm
Posts: 2763
Location: High Point, NC
In general, the only difference between a company's fresh and saltwater electric motors is the color.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2016 7:03 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 22, 2015 1:50 pm
Posts: 3
Sorry to bring up a old thread but how did you get the first T section to sit at a 90 degree angle? Do your rod holders go straight down (on my 2014 PA they go down at a angle) or have you glued the PVC at some kind of angle? Sorry if this is obvious but I haven't worked with PVC before and I'm totally stuck getting the geometry right. Thanks.

SkiPro3 wrote:
I've also built one of these for my Hobie PA. The PA isn't quite like the kayak used by Tom. For example, if I were to mount the T section to a point below the wide section of the kayak, it would be below the water line. So, I made it as short as possible. Notice the scum line on the kayak and where the mount is in relation. It works great! In the photos you may notice the anchor line is there, but there is actually a small gap that it fits between the hull and the motor mount. I also used PVC collar that fits tighter in the well of the rod holder. It's maybe 1/8" thick and makes for a VERY snug fit to the hull. I could not find an end cap, so I found several sizes of PVC that nested inside each other until I was down to 1/2". Look close and you will see the rings of the plug I made. I then drilled a hole and used a self-tapping screw on each of the 3/4" EMT clamps. I also modified the motor and removed the head, wired to a PWM controller and installed a POT to control the trolling motor speed on top of the tiller handle. I now have a knob that works as the throttle with infinite range of adjustment from off to full speed. The PWM was on eBay for around $30 I think. I bought it some time ago so I can't recall the actual price.
I plan to refine the mount and motor to reduce the motor's mast or even to route the motor inside the mount. Might be that I route the wires to a plug at the inside of the rod holder section so when the assembly is dropped into the rod holder, it plugs into the power at the same time. That would keep the profile of the motor to a very small area I think. More tinkering! Ha!

Also, I painted it and added a leash.

Oh, I left the photos full sized for detail.

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