Adjusting H16 Jib Halyard Tension on the Water

I guess you should be able to do this but I have found it to be quite difficult to increase tension from the behind the mast on the tramp. (It’s no problem to do it on land where you can pull the mast forward while standing in front of the boat.) Is there a trick?

(I have the extra cheek-block and cam-cleat on my mast.)

Easiest to do when going down wind.Need to use Big Boat Halyard technique.What I mean is you jump the halyard on the mast between the blocks and the horn cleat on front of mast.Just pull it out from mast then take up slack on the Halyard line just after the cam cleat.Cleat it on the cam cleat ,repeat if needed and finally cleat it down on the horn

Hi! I use a drum tightening tool as a rope puller. I also have the cam cleat... The rope puller really helps you get some leverage. And as mentioned, if done while facing downwind it's even easier.

And having this tool is great for rigging and for tightening your tramp!




Have a Hobie Day!

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2011 H16... Have a Hobie Day!
1983 H14 Turbo...

This is sort of on topic ...
I have a new Hobie 16, the boats come with the Aussie halyard system. On my mast the cheek block is on the front of the mast and the cleat for the jib halyard in also on the front of the mast. The main halyard cleat is on the right (starboard) side of the mast.

In the photos I have seen of the jib halyard upgrade with a cam cleat and second turning block it appears that the jib halyard cleat has been moved to the left side of the mast.



When I do the upgrade I have been thinking about using the cleat on the front of the mast for the main halyard. This will allow me to use the existing cleat and add the second cheek block and cam cleat to the right side of the mast.

My logic is that putting the system on the right side allows the crew to make changes in jib halyard tension while on starboard tack with rights. I can't think of any reason not to set the halyards up this way but since I have never seen it done I thought I should ask the collective.

Cheers,

Randy

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Sail More. Tinker Less. Enjoy a Hobie Day.
-2013 H16 #1`13780
-2014 Getaway w/wings,spinnaker,& trapeze

Yes some people put cam cleat set up on the Starboard side.You can avoid cleating the main halyard on the front cleat by running the tail of it thru the eye of the down haul and over to the cleat on the port side.That way you avoid crossing the main halyard with the jib halyard and it keeps the main halyard further behind the front of the mast.

Thanks. I have no cleat for the downhaul. It was removed when I installed the 6:1 tackle. The masts on the new boats have a cleat on the front above the cheek block and one on the starboard side. I think this was the final setup for the old style jib halyard.

I could relocate the cleat from the front of the mast to the port side but I'd rather not unless there is a very compelling reason to do so. Fewer holes = better in my book.

R

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Sail More. Tinker Less. Enjoy a Hobie Day.
-2013 H16 #1`13780
-2014 Getaway w/wings,spinnaker,& trapeze

I had this system on my 05.... (I added it.) And will most certainly be adding the system to my new boat.... LOVE IT! LOVE IT! LOVE IT!


Having this setup made it very, very, easy to make changes.. Which in turn meant that I did make changes, thus learning the importance of the control much faster...

One thing I would add for sure is a "tape measure" ... So when you make adjustments you can tell how far you moved.. Or you can put it back if you don't like it.. A bit of electrical tape on the halyard works great...

I plan on adding a Cleat to the new mast for the Main Halyard... Or just use the one for the factory downhaul since I have the 6:1 setup..



My 'old' set up...

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www.thehobiewayoflife.com

We put the cam cleat on the Stb side of the mast. The crew pulls the halyard (from the leeward side) and the driver takes it up and cleats it. All a few boat lengths downwind from your rounding of course

Cleat the main halyard on the port side. Look close at the mast in pic

YMMV!!!!

Okay, I don't expect all the rock stars to post all their secrets on the interweb, but.....

I assume the rig (jib halyard) tension is set loose for downwind and tightened for upwind, correct? And I realize there will be variation based on wind speed, wave conditions, crew weight, etc., but anyone willing to share their definitions of "loose" and "tight" for this application? I'm also assuming that the max "looseness" is set by cleating to the horn cleat, and slack is taken up by the cam cleat to "tighten" (no undoing the line cleated on the horn cleat), correct? Finally, I have the Aussie set-up with dyneema (SK 75?) line. That stuff really doesn't hold on a horn cleat well without numerous wraps. Does that cam cleat hold it by itself without slipping, or is a different line preferred?

Thanks for the input. I'm beginning to get that familiar urge to spend more money on the boat, and this would be a lot cheaper than a set of those Euro sails! Seriously, I don't see myself fiddling with the rig tension a lot around the buoys. (I already suck bad enough at all the other things you have to {remember to} do.) However, I do quite a bit of less-tactical distance racing where boat speed is king, and thought I might try this on my '08 H-16.

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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16

Actually it is the opposite,you tighten up the rig down wind,straighten up the mast.This really only works if you are sailing with a looser rig.Lot of the Puerto Ricans(Pedro Colon) like to sail with a little looser rig.Then you can snug it up down wind.
Unlike a lot of the Australian guys (Colby) Sail with a tighter rig,so you will not see them tightening it up down wind.

In my vast (10 hours or so) of experience sailing an H16, mostly in calmer wind, it seems that in low wind, a looser rig is faster. In higher wind, a tighter rig is faster.

Pretty general, but am I directionally correct?

*vast

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Steve
1979 Hobie 16 "Orange Crusher"

Possibly... When it is really really heavy you generally will let off rig tension also.... To depower the boat..

In really, really light air (below 7mph) I run a bit less jib Halyard tension than in moderate conditions(7-15) because I think it allows a better shape on the jib..

Once the breeze picks up to the point where the boat starts to pop up I generally try and add more rig tension to power up the boat until double trapped.. Once double trapped and overpowered I will ease off the rig tension a little bit...

Least that is my theory... But I ain't no rock star on the race course just YET.

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www.thehobiewayoflife.com

After reading this thread, I noticed that no one answered Jerome's question about what type of line works best with the jib halyard upgrade. I can't see the cam cleat holding the standard dyneema jib halyard line very well. For those of you that have had success with this system, what line are you using for a jib halyard?

Thanks,

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Mark Van Doren
H16 Seabreeze #112205 (Richard Petty Signature Edition)
H14T Fantasia #47787
San Juan 28

My boat has the system and we are using the stock halyard that comes with the boat. The cam cleat really doesn't hold anything. The cleat holds the tension when going upwind. When we go downwind there is much less tension on the halyard and you can pull the mast forward and the cam cleat hold it just fine. That makes it where you don't have to untie the rope from the cleat. When going back upwind you just release the cam cleat and the tension goes back to the main cleat the line is tied off too.

Made more sense after I found out that my very first assumption was completely wrong!

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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16