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PostPosted: Sat Apr 26, 2014 4:30 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 7:36 pm
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Location: Near Toronto Canada
I bought this Hobie 18 toward the end of 2013 season, and I wanted to dress it up a bit, make it look like new for this season.
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Here are a few pics of the project so far. Just for interest, and comments if you have.

I am also tired of the black marks on the bottom of the hulls, so before I started painting I put new Stoltz RP-5 rollers on. I decided to go with double rollers on the front. Seeing that it carries more weight, I wanted to make sure the Hulls travel safely. I plan on traveling a lot this season, sailing all over the place. Looking forward to it.
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New rollers
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Last edited by Myoffroadhobie on Sat Apr 26, 2014 5:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 26, 2014 4:42 pm 
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Location: Near Toronto Canada
First I sanded the hulls down with 120 grit. It went pretty quickly, the sander makes quick work of it.
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Then inside for Interlux Interprotect 2000E
http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/diy/products/primers/interprotect-2000e.aspx
I put some on the high wear areas first with a brush.

More sanding in between the coats.
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The Bosch 1250devs is good at fast removal in the driven mode, but it is way heavier than the Festool, and noisier.
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Dust collection on the Festool is way better than on the Bosch. However at the price the Bosch 1250devs is a really good sander. It's not a cheap sander, but compared to the Festool Rotex it is a bargain. I wanted a sander that was more aggressive than the RTS150/5, and in the driven mode the Bosch is aggressive. In random orbit mode it is gentle.

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This is after two coats of Interprotect.
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The Interprotect is quite thick, and builds quickly. By the way, the fumes are intense, wearing a canister mask is essential.

While I'm busy I thought let me see the dagger boards, and then I decided may as well do them too.
Sanded with 80 grit
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Then, thick coat Interprotect.
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Interprotect is epoxy, so it should be a good repair, of the minor damage I have on the edges.


What is the consensus idea about the tops, in particular the non-slip tread. I am going to paint the tops and bottoms with Endura EX-2C
http://www.endura.ca/products/Topcoats/ex2c.html
If I sand it down, I loose the tread, and I can do a better job of painting. Is it a bid deal to loose the tread? I was thinking if I do sand it off, I will put some tread tape on after its all done. I have some 3M transparent tread tape, which I think will be ok. I use it in my house on my hardwood floor, stairs. Four years later it is still like new, but how will it do outside.

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=66666UgxGCuNyXTtnXTVo8z6EVtQEcuZgVs6EVs6E666666--

Suggestions comments welcome. Has anybody else used Endura EX-2C


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2014 5:11 pm 
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Location: Near Toronto Canada
So here it is all prepped for topcoat.
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I mixed up the Endura, and decided to spray it just like it comes out of the can, no thinners, I am scared of getting paint runs.

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One hull painted, one proper coat.
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The Endura came out quite well, but in retrospect I should have sanded the roller texture out more. I gave it a quick 220 grit flattening only.
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I guess on the picture it looks like major orange peel, but it has a nice shine to it, and I will probably sand it a bit before the second coat to reduce that look. If my car was painted like this I wouldn't be happy, but for a boat I think it looks good enough. Who looks at the boat from that close anyway.

The biggest problem I have is to warm the hulls up. Still cold here, and I need 20Deg C. I resorted to using my wife's hairdryer inside the hull. Just leave it there for the day, it warms up the hull quite well. I am actually surprised, the hairdryer survived the day.


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PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2014 8:21 pm 
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Keep going! Looking awesome so far.


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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 7:39 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
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Location: Detroit, MI
OK, I'm going to be blunt. Not being mean, just blunt.

That finish is really bad. It's not just orange peel - it's got sags in it from too much being applied at once (you were right to be afraid of not thinning the paint). If someone did that to my boat, they'd be sanding it off and I'd take it somewhere else to re-do it.

If you're happy with it, that's what counts, but it's not a professional-looking job by any stretch of the imagination. Boats should have a mirror-like finish - just like a car.

As far as painting the decks, I wouldn't. (I wouldn't have painted the hulls to begin with, but that's another subject - and too late here). Paint fills the non-skid and reduces its effectiveness.

If you sand off the non-skid (a major task), you can replace it with any number of tapes, EPDM foam sheet (Hydro Turf) - but you're adding more labor and material.

Gel coat (the original material of the hulls and decks) is easily repaired and refinished - especially on a white boat. Painting is usually a last resort on a boat that's impossible to color-match (faded green, yellow and blue).

Do your daggerboards still work without binding? The added thickness of the paint can be just enough to make them bind up in the trunks.


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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2014 8:18 am 
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Joined: Wed May 25, 2011 3:15 pm
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Location: Buffalo, NY
My concern with the paint wouldn't be appearance so much as resistance... surface imperfections can add a significant amount of drag and slow the boat down. Whether or not painting was the right choice is another topic, but everyone is entitled to their own opinion. If I just wanted my boat to look like new again, maybe painting wouldn't be such a bad idea. However, I wouldn't want the extra weight and I'd be afraid that I couldn't get the finish as smooth as I'd like.

OffRoadHobie, I applaud your daring, but I'd try and sand that surface down a bit and try to go thinner on the next coat. If you can get that mirror-like finish, I'm sure she'll sail great and look great too! She won't likely be a competitive racer, but she'll be a great looking boat!

As far as the rollers go, while two forward is better than one, the best possible solution is to install cradles or bunks. They spread the weight of the hull over a much greater contact area. rollers point load the hull, which can cause extensive damage at that location over time.

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'79 H18 standard 'Rocketman II' sail #14921 RIP
'78 H18 (unnamed) sail #14921
'08 H16 sail #114312
'97 H21SC sail #238


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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2014 6:26 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 02, 2009 5:22 am
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Location: Columbus, Indiana
When a sailor spends that much time and effort on their boat, it shows they care. :D

With a little more experience and people will ask for your help working on their boats.

Don't get discouraged, it's your first time....move forward with no regrets.

Remember, we all try and try again until we are happy with ourselves.

Time to go sailing and enjoy this new season............ 8)

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Bill 404 21SE
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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2014 7:34 pm 
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Location: Near Toronto Canada
Thanks for the input, yes if I paid somebody to paint it for me, I would also reject the job and demand a redo. I am not a pro painter, I am sure there must be worse paint jobs out there.
Hey a golf ball has dimples in it to make it go faster, maybe dimpled surface on my Hobie has the same effect :shock: .

To reply to the weight issue, I actually weighed the Interprotect, I put about 750g on each hull, and its 43% solids, so let's round it to 1 pound. An then even less for the topcoat. The hulls used to be blue, and a previous owner did paint it white, but then in a few places the white was so thin blue was showing through. That's why I decided to paint it white for good.

I am still quite new to sailing, yes, an amateur sailor too, so I really doubt I can sail well enough that I would be able to notice the extra 4 pounds of paint. I would have to wait until I get it in the water, hopefully soon, then I can report back if the boat is pulling to one side, and which side?

So on the next hull I sanded it more, before the topcoat, and it looks a lot better. In retrospect I can see I should have sanded it even more, but that is hindsight.

The problem on the first hull was the Crown Royal on Friday night, the resulting hangover the next day and I wanted paint on by the end of the weekend.

So here is the Interprotect re-sanded, with 220 grit.

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Then, after topcoat, still wet.
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Up close it looks a lot better.
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Notably better, I might have to re-sand the first hull and repaint it.

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Today the paint seemed thicker, or maybe my internal heating of the hull worked a bit too well, hairdryer inside, so I had to add some thinners to the mix. It certainly helped the flow and gloss. Unfortunately one paint run, I will need to sand out afterwards.

For info on paint consumption, the Endura topcoat I bought a quart, which is one quart of base and one quart hardener, so mixed up it is two quarts, and it is now basically empty. One coat on each hull.

Thanks for the comments, I look forward to reading your inputs.


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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2014 10:32 am 
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In light of that, I'm sure you'll love the boat once it's all done! You won't be able to tell if the boat pulls to one side because the rudders are always lifting to keep the boat going straight... the boat is always trying to round up and point into the wind, so there's always a "pull" from the sails, but any "pull" from extra drag on the hull would be minimal. In all honesty, you'd need to be sailing at the top of your game before the weight or surface differences would make any noticeable difference. The boat will still fly, and I'm sure you'll love it!

If the boat was already painted white, there's not much else you could do but re-paint it, and like I said, I applaud your daring... I'm still nervous about doing any kind of surface work to my boat!

_________________
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Image
'79 H18 standard 'Rocketman II' sail #14921 RIP
'78 H18 (unnamed) sail #14921
'08 H16 sail #114312
'97 H21SC sail #238


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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2014 6:55 pm 
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Location: Near Toronto Canada
With both hulls painted, I pulled it out a bit to see it in daylight.
This is the second, smoother one.
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From 10 feet away it looks good. I could sand it all off and start again, but I think once the new decals are on, its going to look like new. I am going to just sail it to the max and see how these coatings stand up to wear and sun etc. Next winter I will decide again what to do.
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I was planning to paint the decks, but now I am rethinking that. I carefully sanded down the blue gelcoat on the edges, and it buffs up quite nicely.
However the rest of the deck is not so easy to sand down, in particular the grip areas. What to do there?


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PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2014 8:09 pm 
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I came home after being away on business, and the weather was just great. When I opened the garage, I noticed a terrible thing, the boat is bone dry ad upside down.

So I decided that its it for the hull bottoms. Time to get the boat in the water.
So I spent Saturday putting it back together, getting everything out of storage, and also made a few mods to the trailer.
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I found some Hobie Decals at Fogh Marine, in Toronto, a few more still to put on.
Sunday we went out to the Lake, just to give it a test, and everything works great.

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Image


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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2014 6:50 pm 
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Looks much better rightside up!

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Fleet 259, Central Coast CA
H18 ('81)
H18 ('85)
H20 ('97)
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PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 3:54 am 
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Joined: Thu May 23, 2013 12:02 am
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Location: London
moncasta, I think it looks fine and fair play to you tackling this project.
In my opinion its part of the fun of boat ownership.
I actually get almost as much enjoyment pottering about fixing my boats up (H14/16) as I do sailing them,well almost! ;-)

Check out the following Hotline articles regarding non skid repair I found them interesting:

'This Old Hobie Non-skid Repair - Part 1'
http://static.hobiecat.com/2010_archive/hobieclass/eHCA_Hotline11-12_2008.pdf
'This Old Hobie Non-skid Repair - Part 2'
http://static.hobiecat.com/2010_archive/hobieclass/eHCA_Hotline01-02_2009.pdf

Regards,
SRG

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Hobie 16 Carumba (1983)
Hobie 16 1990 (storm damaged)
Hobie 16 1996 (my latest)


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PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 7:42 am 
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Location: Near Toronto Canada
Paragon

Thanks for the links, interesting repair plan.

That looks like a long process if I wanted to do the whole boat, but it will be good.

I might do a variation on that idea, where I use the grip tape I have as a mold, instead of sticking in on like I was planning.
It will be a different texture, but it will be in the gelcoat or paint, instead of being taped on.

I will think about this while I sail the boat. For now I am going to clean (sand) the flat areas of the decks, and polish it up.


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