There is work involved. There is nominal expense as well to tune the boat for sailing in big winds and windchop. Trial and error have been an instructor and this is the best I can offer in the way of advice.
To sail cleanly through most chop single handed requires MAST RAKE! The standard setup powers the bows downward in the upper wind ranges. The boat sails extremely well in flat water, but without mast rake it is unpleasant and punchy in windchop. I set my mast rake so that when the sail is raised and downhaul is hard on, the clew is at most about 13" above the crossbar. This requires a different mainsheet system since fiddle blocks supplied will not allow enough sheet tension when the blocks are fully pulled together. I installed a 6:1 H16 system reeved 4:1 to mitigate this problem. Also, removing the cleat on the lower ratchet block was a game changer. If you are a cleater, you will not have enough time in a hard puff to uncleat and release going over. Therefore, handholding the mainsheet allows immediate release.
You will have to determine how much shorter your shrouds should be to keep the standing rig snug to avoid any danger of the mast jumping the step. An additional chain plate at the forestay/bridle connection is necessary to arrive at this mast rake setting on most boats. Then you can determine what length to order your shorter shrouds.
Lastly, when you sail the new rig, you should notice marked improvement in performance. The key is to seat yourself as far back as possible when under sail in windchop with the improved rig. The boat may still bounce some, but with practice the boat can actually sail smooth in heavy windchop from winds around 15-25. I do it all the time. Gear up as you will get splashed. Have sailed in squalls with 5-6' wind wave faces to weather a couple of times. This rig brought me back safely. I'm now devoid of all fear sailing year round at Lake Mead, Nevada. It is one of the most treacherous lakes. The Wave was made for it!