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PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 10:31 am 
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To keep my new Wave in the best possible condition this summer, I plan to take the mast down after each day of sailing. The mast will be taken apart and the sail will be put in the sail bag. Both will then be stored in the garage. Can I leave the battens in the sail as I roll the sail up to put in its bag or do I need to take the battens out? If it is okay to leave them in, should I loosen them?

I also note that the two bow tangs need loctite on their screws. Obviously this means putting each bridle under the bow tang before securing the bow tangs with screws/loctite. If I instead wanted to be able to easily remove the bridles from the two bow tangs without having to remove the bow tangs' screws could I use a snap shackle? Would Snap Shackle #20803 work or do I need something stronger? If I do need a stronger one, which one?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 10:54 am 
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Location: Eastern PA
I leave the battens in and am careful when I role the sail so battens are not bent. I also read that loose is best for the Wave, so I leave the battens loose but seated all the time. Maybe not the best approach - would be interested in more experienced people's feedback.

With regard to the shackle, I would not use a snap shackle just because it seems like a dicey choice for standing rigging. There is a shackle at the adjuster end, so maybe just get a couple more of those?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 11:02 am 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
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Location: Oceanside, California
You can safely leave the mast up. My only suggestion is to limit mast rotation to prevent unnecessary wear on rigging parts. The mast, if left up, and oscillate in the wind and loosen or wear parts. Use pliers to get the shackles tight and inspect from time to time. You can limit rotation by wrapping a line or numgee around the mast a force it to rotate to one side... tie off there.

Leave the battens in. At most... ease the batten tension.

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Hobie Cat USA
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 4:18 pm 
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Matt:

Thank you for the prompt reply!

For those stretches of time where my boat sits unattended and it might best to also take down the mast, the ease of using a snap shackle (#20803) at the bottom of each bridle is not a good idea? Is a stronger snap shackle needed? If yes, do you have a part number? If still not a good idea, is there something else that could be used so that I can also remove the bridles from each bow tang without having to remove each bow tang's screws?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 4:38 pm 
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Location: Oceanside, California
We use snap shackles on the Classic Bridles. That version was designed for disassembly ease. Smaller wire dimension, but plenty strong. Maybe invest in a set of Wave (SE) Classic bridles? They are also a little shorter in the wire to make up for the snap shackle length.

38822011 WIRE BRIDLE WAVE SE W/HOOK-1/8

Image

Image

1320 lb breaking strength... x 2

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 5:04 pm 
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Location: Georgia
I've had a Hobie 14, 16, and now a Wave. While on the beach for 1-2 wks the mast remains stepped, but a line is run around the mast and both side stays (tightened) to form a triangle and prevent mast rotation and movement. The sail(s) is always rolled and stored out of the sun and weather. I never take the Wave mast apart. It's stored in the garage diagonally overhead.

Personally, I would never, ever alter the bridle bow tang mountings. I have complete faith out in the Gulf with standard Hobie rigging, but not with alternate quik-disconnect methods. When I trailer the Wave, I attach a bungee to the bridle adjuster and hook it into the tramp........keeping the entire bridle arrangement intact and unaltered and not twisted. Why would you want to continually connect / disconnect a major support for the mast ? You've selecting false convenience over safety.......I think.

To drop the mast pull the pin in the bridle adjuster and the mast is free. The standing rigging can remain. I'm not sure why you would want to remove the standing rigging or how it benefits storage ?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2017 5:23 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 15, 2013 7:18 am
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Location: San Mateo, CA
I have pitch-poled my boat, turtled it twice, hit 18mph, jumped and crashed through ocean swells, capsized, been in 30+ mph winds and I have never had an issue with my classic bridal and the snap shackles. I dont think the wire is smaller diameter than the club (I have both sets, on may be aftermarket..). The are quick to connect and make it really easy when stepping the mast solo. I do make sure that the spine of the clip is facing outboard and i put my jib bridal to a specific side so the snap is not opened or snagged by anything. This is just my experience, and I will admit that I have wondered about the classic bridal from time to time..., but I've put the boat to the test and all is fine.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2017 5:37 pm 
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Location: Oceanside, California
Classic is 3/32" Club is 1/8", but the H14 also had 3/32" We just upgraded the "Club" for club use.

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Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
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Hobie Cat USA
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 08, 2017 11:09 am 
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Joined: Fri May 01, 2015 9:49 am
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Location: Eastern PA
I guess it's semantics but I think of those as snap links.

I think of snap shackles as those shackles that are often used on tethers with the quick release pull, as below:
Image


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 08, 2017 11:48 am 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
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Location: Oceanside, California
I stand corrected! Carbine Hook per the Wichard Catalog.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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