Return to Hobie.com

Hobie Forums

It is currently Thu Oct 18, 2018 3:12 am

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 9 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Sat Apr 15, 2017 9:44 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Tue Sep 08, 2009 3:58 am
Posts: 99
Hello:
Every 2 or 3 years my getaway (2009) halyard breaks at the wire- rope joint (wire rusts regardless at the joint and then breaks). Does this happen to many people? I was wondering if there would be a problem to use the old style hobie 16 halyard (the one that is half wire) with the comp tip? I also have a friend who has a H-16 with comp tip and has the same question, because he had an old H16 with the old halyard and had no problems with it.

thanks,

Guillermo Zavala


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Apr 15, 2017 10:18 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Sat Oct 04, 2014 1:30 pm
Posts: 787
Location: Benicia, CA
I rinse my halyard joint after each sail, but it will happen again eventually since the join is made with dissimilar metals so you'll get galvanic corrosion eventually. But, for $60 or so, you can keep a spare. Pretty cheap, really.

You "can" replace the wire join with a small diameter high tech line join which won't corrode. You can also tie a knot in the high tech line at the right spot to catch the hook--best to put a stopper on top of the knot. I think an empty brass shell casing would work-especially if you crimped it over the knot. I have done this and it is my spare...I didn't have a shell casing, so I used a small washer, but the washer moves out of place which is less than ideal.

_________________
R/Thom
SeaRail 19
Triak
BMW C600
Formerly Getaway with Custom Spinnakers
Formerly raced F24 Mk II


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2017 8:24 am 
Offline
Site Admin

Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 12518
Location: Oceanside, California
Wire conducts electricity, so not recommended.

_________________
Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2018 7:55 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 11:36 pm
Posts: 20
Location: La Manzanilla, Mexico
I have had the same problem with my Getaway on the beach in Mexico. The 2nd halyard in 7 years almost failed today.

How can I repair it if I can't receive a new part? Can TPDavis explain his solution in more detail?
What is high tech line? How do you join the line to the existing cable? A knot? Would a split shot weight substitute for a shell casing?

Matt: I believe the standard halyard that keeps failing is wire. As TPDavis points out the point of failure is where the cable passes through the copper cap.

_________________
Lew


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2018 8:28 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Sat Oct 04, 2014 1:30 pm
Posts: 787
Location: Benicia, CA
High tech line is dyneema or some similar non stretch line. 4mm is plenty thick for a Getaway halyard. Less than a dollar a foot so about the same cost as buying a new replacement halyard from Hobie-but will probably last forever. Split shot would probably work just as well as the drilled casing-didn't think of that and even easier, just squeeze the shot above the stopper knot.

http://www.apsltd.com/samson-ropes-amst ... -line.html

BTW, if your wire shrouds fail or you just want to replace them, this same line is stronger than the steel Learn how to make a brummel splice (takes about 10 minutes) and you will never buy stainless wire again. Truly, there is nothing wrong with Hobie-tech, it is just OLD TECH compared with what is available today.

_________________
R/Thom
SeaRail 19
Triak
BMW C600
Formerly Getaway with Custom Spinnakers
Formerly raced F24 Mk II


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2018 8:08 am 
Offline
Site Admin

Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 12518
Location: Oceanside, California
I would not use an all rope halyard of any kind. Rope can / will stretch and allow the head to slip lower and possibly peel out of the track. The stock wire locks the head of the sail into the track. A rope would also transmit compression loads down the mast causing more mast bend.

_________________
Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2018 9:06 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
Posts: 3555
Location: Jersey Shore
How about removing the fork at the top of the mast and making a little adapter plate that would allow you to mount a cam cleat or spinlock cleat in place of the fork? This would let you to use a 100% rope halyard and still have the halyard be secured at the top of the mast (eliminating halyard stretch and mast compression issues). Just a thought.

sm


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2018 10:32 am 
Offline
Site Admin

Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 12518
Location: Oceanside, California
Seems like a great idea!

_________________
Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2018 11:10 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Sat Oct 04, 2014 1:30 pm
Posts: 787
Location: Benicia, CA
spinlock up there is a good idea, but dunno if you can release a spinlock from that far away. I'd try on land and no sail first. My SeaRail has a different method. It uses a pigtail off the back of the mast and uses a 2:1 halyard. It also reduces the mast compression load by a third or so, but my new mast has stays (I think it is the same mast as a Tiger).

BTW, Matt, we were talking about continuing to use the hook even with all tech line...that is the reason for the stopper knot and the split shot to catch the hook. The dyneema line doesn't stretch, but I do understand the purpose of the hook at the top, since the mast is unstayed, it not only halves the compression load, it loads it in the direction you want it to bend. Works well and was a good design back then. Still works OK, just could be upgraded to better with a little mental lube. The original thread is about the lack of robustness for halyard longevity due in part to the dissimilar metals used at the wire to rope splice. Wire to rope splices are 1980s tech and better is available. Even though a replacement halyard is pretty cheap at $60, if one breaks while on vacation after hauling the boat 400 miles, it just sucks rocks.

_________________
R/Thom
SeaRail 19
Triak
BMW C600
Formerly Getaway with Custom Spinnakers
Formerly raced F24 Mk II


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 9 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
© Hobie Cat Company. All rights reserved.
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group