Return to Hobie.com

Hobie Forums

It is currently Fri Sep 22, 2017 2:55 am

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 16 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Wed May 31, 2017 9:29 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Wed May 18, 2016 11:44 am
Posts: 44
Location: Traverse City, MI.
i have an 85 hobie 18.
I recently came across an I believe early 80s magnum with wings, the hulls are crushed from winter or something. anyway, I was offered all the parts from the boat for 500. sound fair?
it has a new mast and the standing rigging looks very nice, the whole ,mast looks great.
rudders have been refurbished and not used since
has magnum wings in black
black cross beams, boom, mast and rudder assembly, castings are still the aluminum colored old style
original baby blue tramps and sails that have been stored indoors and said to be in great condition, I have not seen them in person yet
running rigging is prolly useless
dagger boards look good.

Im into it for the sails and wings, figure I'll just take everything i can off the hulls as well.

my question is, should I make an offer, they seem like they are open to an offer as they asked me if 500 was ok. and also, my boat does not have wings, so I need to know what NOT to Forget to grab from the magnum hulls so I can install the wings on my 18.

boat has been used on a sandy lake superior beach by a nice family, their daughter is a mountain biking friend of mine which is how I got the line on this stuff.

opinions, advice?
thanks
Forrest


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jun 01, 2017 6:12 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Sun Aug 26, 2007 5:40 am
Posts: 466
Location: Metuchen NJ
magnum wings with seat covers and all related hardware usually sell for $700-$800, so that alone is worth $500 if they're in good shape. no structure cracks, etc.

_________________
Chris
'88 H18SE Arís


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jun 01, 2017 7:17 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Wed May 25, 2011 3:15 pm
Posts: 467
Location: Buffalo, NY
The mounting hardware for the wings is a must have, you can't get those anymore. There's an "anchor plate" riveted to the crossbars, there's a stainless steel plug that slides into the track for the trampoline at each of the four mounting points, there's a stud that threads into the plugs, and there are stainless steel tabs at the outboard bolts on each crossbar that secure the wings in the down position.

$500 seems more than fair, as they could have sold the wings separately for $700+, the sails for maybe a couple hundred, maybe rudders, daggers and trampoline too, and junked the rest of the boat. I imagine they don't have the time or energy to sell off the parts separate, so they'd rather just be rid of the whole thing.

_________________
Mike
Image
'79 H18 standard 'Rocketman II' sail #14921


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jun 01, 2017 9:30 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
Posts: 3272
Location: Jersey Shore
SabresfortheCup wrote:
The mounting hardware for the wings is a must have, you can't get those anymore.


Not too sure about that. I was loaned a set of wings last year that didn't have all the hardware and I was able to order the parts I needed. That being said, it would make much more sense to pull all the hardware off of the old boat rather than buying new parts (they're expensive).

For the long "slug" in the rear crossbar, you will have to drill out the corner casting to remove. You also probably want to look into getting the reinforcement plates that rivet to the outside of the crossbars if they aren't there. These prevent the crossbar extrusion from cracking out around the slug. On my boat, I modified these plates by bending them slightly to better fit the contour of the crossbar. The rear ones I also trimmed a little shorter and re-drilled the holes so that the whole assembly could move outboard more (the wing wasn't lining up right over the outboard crossbar bolt).

A couple other things I did on my boat. When I set up the wings the first time and got everything where I wanted it, I put a dab of silicone caulk on the slugs to hold them in position. That way if I want to sail without the wings, I can completely remove the threaded studs from the slugs and just put in a regular hex bolt so there is no stud sticking out of the crossbar to get banged up on. Without the silicone the slug would rotate and you'd never get it aligned to re-install the stud.

Another thing I did was ditch the fully threaded "set screws" that Hobie uses for the studs. The problem with these screws is that the threads chew up the end casting on the wings. Instead I used a stainless steel "double ended setup stud" which has threads on both ends and a smooth section in the middle for the casting to ride on.

Image

Also be wary of the thread pitch on the studs/slugs. The parts that were loaned to me, some of them were fine thread and some were coarse thread, so if the stud won't easily go into the slug, don't force it.

sm


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jun 01, 2017 1:57 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2016 2:15 pm
Posts: 50
That's a great deal for that collection of parts... especially the wings. Even if you have to get new wing tramps, that's worth it.
Swap your hulls onto the parts-boat crossbeam for simplest, least-fiddley wing install.

Murrays Marine has a surprising amount of the bits and pieces to kit up wings, but if you get the full kit off the donor boat, you likely won't need to call them. I suggest you take everything you can including the hulls, and store it all alongside your house, a friend's house, your folks' house, etc... until you get your boat all set up and sailed a few times successfully with the wings. Then, only then, cut up the hulls is they are utterly trashed, and save every bit of hardware, running rigging, standing rigging, etc. -- spares are never a bad idea, and if you're motivated, you can part the boat out on ebay. The hulls chop up pretty easily with a chainsaw or a circular saw with a carbide blade.

Randii


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 7:28 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2016 10:13 am
Posts: 41
Location: France
I could need a part (if you are willing to sell).

The front-right casting (part number 10 - 18000060 in my Hobie-Cat 18 "Illustrated part guide"). It's the cast part that goes a few inches into the front crossbeam and bolts down onto the right hull. Mine is broken and the parts-situation at HC France is a tad on the weak side. Casting front right.

If you aren't sure what part i'm talking about, I can mail you a photo. Just le me know your email.

Stefan

_________________
information is not knowledge
Hobie 18 Formula
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 7:29 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Wed May 25, 2011 3:15 pm
Posts: 467
Location: Buffalo, NY
randii wrote:
Murrays Marine has a surprising amount of the bits and pieces to kit up wings

Ahh, I didn't think about Murray's. I just know that Hobie removed the parts from their parts lists a couple years ago, so I assumed that they no longer carry the parts.

I'm not so sure about swapping the crossbars, but I know fitting a set of wings to a different boat from the one they were initially set-up on can be pretty tricky. srm's idea of cutting down the anchor plates and drilling new holes may be necessary, as the set of wings I bought seemed to want to anchor further outboard than the anchor plate would otherwise allow. They also were very tight to the crossbar.

srm, I didn't realize you had wings! I thought I had read on here that you weren't really a fan of them. I like your idea about securing the slugs in place with silicone, and getting rid of the fully threaded studs. The studs were definitely fine thread on mine. Looks like you got the double-ended setup studs from McMaster Carr?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 9:44 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
Posts: 3272
Location: Jersey Shore
Yes McMcaster has the studs. You will also need thin hex nuts (jam nuts). I'm very happy with the system and not having a stud sticking out when you aren't using the wings is a major bonus. Just be sure to put a short hex nut or cap screw into the slug so it doesn't move around. I also drilled and tapped the crossbars 10-24 and use machine screws to hold the reinforcement plates onto the ctossbar rather than riveting. That way the parts are easily removable if needed.

I'm not anti-wing. They have their place. If you want max performance, want to launch through the surf, or want to race then I would say no wings. But for crusing with the fam, or if you just don't want to trap, they are nice.

sm


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 1:16 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Wed May 18, 2016 11:44 am
Posts: 44
Location: Traverse City, MI.
your saying I can't swap the crossbars to my hulls?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 6:51 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Wed May 25, 2011 3:15 pm
Posts: 467
Location: Buffalo, NY
black4est wrote:
your saying I can't swap the crossbars to my hulls?

you can, I'm just saying that after the swap the wings may not fit perfectly, and there may be some adjustment necessary. But it'll probably be quicker than fitting them to completely different boat.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2017 5:31 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2012 2:03 pm
Posts: 17
Just curious, where on Lake Superior? I'm located in Wawa, just off of Michipicoten Bay.

If you have for sale I'm looking for sails and roller furler...


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2017 9:43 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Wed May 18, 2016 11:44 am
Posts: 44
Location: Traverse City, MI.
Ok, got all the parts at 7pm tonight. Man I'm thankful I have the original owners manual, I would have never thought to silicon seal the bolt holes for the crossbars, glad I had a fresh tube of silicon rubber sealant. Crossbars went on surprisingly easy. Brings me to a question. I figured out to tighten the inner hex head bolts first, which made the bars seat nice and flush.
The guide says nothing about torque specs. My bolts came out easily, nice to have stainless hardware and freshwater.

How tight do I want to make them? I tightened the in we hex bolts with a regular sized Allen key, just till I started to hear crunch sound. I thightenws the outer bolts snug, about the same pressure as was to remove them.
Manual says to check them after 5 hours of use, figure that's a good guide to see how I did.

Kept boat on trailer and loosely installed front bar, then installed rear and tightened inner bolts, then front inner bolts, then all outers. Erverything lined up perfect.

It got dark so I'm waiting till daylight to put the wings on. Hope they fit as well as the crossbars do.

I did not get the hulls, but he was kind enough to cut out all the hull sections that have hardware on them, so I have everything from the magnum hulls.

How tight do the dolphin strikers need to be, mine have a slight bit of movement if I squeeze them to the crossbar, my original was the same tension.

Man, I was happy to not see any cracks when I pulled the bars off:))

I have a redone and never used pair of rudders that have EPO sticker on them with a 3 digit number but I forget the number. I'm guessing these are the older style rudders. The newer ones I have are a more plastic feel.
I'm sure I'll be posting back soon as I finish this up.

Have not installed any reinforcements but I think the hull parts I have might have some metal plates that bolt to the hull under the crossbar castings???

I do have some gel cracking around both my port holes that I'm thinking I might reinforce and a nice hash in one hull from a tree branch pulling my boat off the trailer coming out of water last fall. The fender of the trailer scratched it, I think it hit the glass.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2017 8:31 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Wed May 25, 2011 3:15 pm
Posts: 467
Location: Buffalo, NY
Crossbar bolts should be as tight as you can get them without really wrenching on them, and you should have a lock washer or nylock nut to keep them from backing out. Dolphin striker tension rod should be tight enough that it's tight against the post, even if you stand on the tension rod. It's there to apply an upward force on the dolphin striker post to counteract the downward force on the crossbar from the mast & rigging. It takes load off of/reinforces the crossbar. Too loose and you could break the crossbar. I had to loosen mine up at one point to replace the mast base, and I just torqued it down until it was very tight against the post.

The Hobie 18 performance manual recommended getting the rig set up and tensioned, and then measuring the distance between the bows at the top, mid-way, and bottom, and then tension or loosen the dolphin striker as necessary until all three numbers are the same. I think as long as it's good and tight, you're probably fine.

_________________
Mike
Image
'79 H18 standard 'Rocketman II' sail #14921


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2017 10:22 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Wed May 18, 2016 11:44 am
Posts: 44
Location: Traverse City, MI.
The post is the center post under mast step? So no vertical movement should be present in dolphin rods. Tighten equally from each side assume?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2017 1:38 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Wed May 25, 2011 3:15 pm
Posts: 467
Location: Buffalo, NY
Generally yes, tension both sides. However, it's not so critical that you need to get it tensioned perfectly between the two sides. The tension rod is just a bent rod, so as long as it's not horribly side loaded in tensioning, it should center up and load up pretty evenly. I'd say as long as they're both within a few turns of each other, you'd be fine.

Murray's sells the Hobie 18 performace manual, which has a handful of tips and tricks when it comes to rigging & tuning the H18: https://www.murrays.com/product/45-0031/


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 16 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
© Hobie Cat Company. All rights reserved.
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group