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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 3:47 pm 
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fusioneng wrote:
Jay:
If you go to rvtrader.com you can see lots of pics of the thor class c c29j toy hauler, that's the one we have been scoping out trying to figure some way to get a TI in there. Suspending from the ceiling might be doable while traveling with the nose over the bed over the cab.
FE


That’s exactly the model I’ve been looking at- The Thor Outlaw 29J. Also thinking I would break the boat down and pull the main hull into the living area and put it up on the cab over. It looks like there is enough space... but not sure.

I know converting a box truck would be a lot of work and that’s a big consideration- it would give me the ability to put 2kw or more of solar up there with a mechanism to tilt it at a 45 degree angle for better sun catching (and then lower when driving.). I’m planning a massive array and a massive battery system, so much so that I am wondering if I shouldn’t just get a truck with a blown engine and do a full Conversion to an electric vehicle with 20kwh of 48 or 72 volt batteries. That, however is even more work. If I go the box truck approach I will do it in phases and spend money over time, not convert it all at once.

But an outlaw would be more convenient. Less room for solar and 5 feet longer and less convenience for the boat....

But I’ve been thinking with an Outlaw I could put the back ramp into deck mode and then assemble the boat in the garage and it could live there and on the ramp when stationary.

But going to the water then means some other mechanism would be needed. Was thinking a beach very simple trailer and an electric bike.

I think anything with slideouts you don’t want to be driving to the boat ramp! Breaking camp all the time would be a pain.

The Outlaw is set up for primarily propane- the fridge doesn’t run from batteries, just AC or propane.

So for boondocking I would build the big battery array in the garage, put as much solar on the roof as I could and then a big beefy inverter could provide 30A Service to the RV. (So solar and my batteries are a separate system and the RV plugs into it.) This would avoid a lot of requiring and changing the RV itself.

I plan to go see one in person Tomorrow.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 3:57 pm 
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Sailorv wrote:
Jay,
One of the reasons we ditched that idea ourselves was as soon as you add a window to a box truck conversion there goes your stealth camping and anonymity. No way we would be windowless.

Really, if you are single (don't mind the cabover bed) why not consider that? You definitely sound capable of doing it. Just a thought.....

The less of a project plan, instead of a TC door, was thru a model with a large rear window, rear dinette models seemed to work, making it into an opening one and stowing the Island thru there in slings and removing the head door and putting in a drape in so we could still access it. We measured it and found we would need one too long an rv for us to be able to fully stow the TI, AI would have worked in the 22' we had in mind.


Sailirv


I’m still shopping for 20 foot to 24 foot class-b and b+ rigs. The Leisure Vans Unity 24MB looks really nice as does the Tiffin Wayfarer.

It’s hard for me to judge the difference between 20 and 25 feet. But given many class-bs are 24 feet it seems reasonable to get a class-c in that size and have a bunch more space.

Besides the boat I need to set up a computer workstation and really want to keep my 49” 4K monitor. I can do that in many dinette setups. I don’t want my work to suffer though... that’s the main thing keeping me from a 20 footer. (Well I could do a sprinter conversion myself and be in 22 feet and give up having a kitchen or bathroom on board.)

So much of this varies based on how I use it- how much time is boondocking vs trying to stealth vs a park with hookups.

Stealth was important when I was first starting out, but really I have no need to be in urban areas much. Rural Walmart’s suffice for my shopping.

I wouldn’t put a window in the box van but I would put 8 cameras and powerful IR LED lights on it and monitor on video. :-)

I have been thinking about the AI too. I think the TI would be nicer but the AI May be enough.

One piece of advice I keep seeing is “just buy what you need to get out there, you can’t know for sure until you start traveling.” Well I don’t like dropping $80k on an RV or conversion if I’m not gonna use it for 5 years or more (Though I’m paying about $20k a year in rent now, so if boondocked full time it would take 4 years to get ROI)


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 5:10 pm 
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Oh, on the ferries they charge be total length... they have limited floor space so to carry an island on a trailer costs as much as if you had a second RV you were towing— cause it takes up the same space. The cost is such that it would be cheaper to just buy a new Hobie in Alaska and give it away before you return.

I wonder if an AI can fit in a Winnebago Revel. That would be cool, but guessing even running it up to the drivers seat it would be too long.

https://m.winnebagoind.com/products/cla ... floorplans




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PostPosted: Sat Jan 27, 2018 6:41 am 
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I got a technical manual for the Outlaw 29j. The space between the back garage door and the back of the cab (eg not including the cab over bunk) is 23 feet. So if the TI hill fits thru the door and doesn’t collide with furniture, plenty of space.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 3:36 pm 
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Looked at 4 outlaws this weekend. Two had noticeable warranty work that I saw within my five minutes. They are priced really cheap here in Texas- around $80k at mhsrv.com

My notes:
THOR OUTLAW 29J
- garage door width- frame 22 1/8” if door removed, about 19 with door open at max. Frame is about 72” high.
- No step between garage and living area.
- Nearly straight shot from the door into the cab over bunk.
- Cab-over is about 57” from front to 0 point of LQ. (Back side of cab frame)

Overall they are probably a good value but I wasn’t feeling it. I am looking at 25 foot regular RVs now and Class-Bs. Torn between one of those and towing or doing the DIY approach.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 8:11 pm 
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That Class C TH model sure sounds nice. But holy $#!+ 80k is a lot of money to throw down for a maybe!
Can you find one to rent? Then go rent an AI and it at the same time and give it all a whirl?

And regarding ferries costs.....you're telling us you plan to take that many ferry trips to offset $3-$5k (you said you were better off giving away the Island in AK)? Are you pretty dedicated to mainly exploring AK and BC? Have you consided a totally different option of travelling and buying a cruising boat that could hold an AI on deck and then AI from anchor?

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 9:20 pm 
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jay2018 wrote:
quattroguy wrote:
If you have any sailor left in your blood, you will end up in the TI.


This is the comment that got me- I looked at hobies sail kits for other kayaks and they are... well, not capable enough. I looked at WETA and TRIAK and Warren Little Boat and WindRider and everything else I could find... most of them are not in production anymore and the ones that are are too much like "real" sailboats with significant rigging--- not that there's a problem with that when sailing, but its' the transition between sailing and non-sailing that is the problem.

I have ZERO interest in anything without a "real" sail. Islands have real sails, but the sail kit for the kayaks doesn't do it for me.

I know my launch time for my old boat was about 30 minutes, but it was not a hassle, I just started the engine, warmed it up, etc. the hassle was it was 30 foot and 12,000 pounds and just too much for me to single hand, especially having to go between the boat and the dock -- it was a center cockpit and had a high wall.

If I can manage to roll a TI about 100 yards and down a boat ramp (and then later up, and back 100 years) it should work. It's just hard to tell from online research.

I'm not in great shape (part of the reason for getting the boat is to get me more active- this is an exercise form I love) but I'm in good health.

I would go and rent one or both, but I cannot, my local hobie dealer says "we sell a lot of them but they are too big to keep in the store" SMH.
.

Regarding “trying” a tandem island, you are welcome to try mine if in the New York/Connecticut area. I will say pulling it up the ramp at low tide is difficult, but there are typically a few people around to lend a hand for the minute it takes.
Kent H Greenwich.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 29, 2018 10:00 am 
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jay2018 wrote:
Is there a big difference in handling / launching and stowing the TI and AI for a single person?

I would think it depends on the grades/elevation between parking lot and water's edge.

On scupper-mount beach wheels, the AI's bow is a 50# lift - which gets old fast over any distance.

OTOH, on the TI, the scuppers are located more at the balance point and there is little or no bow lift required.

OTOOH, at my sailing venue, I have to negotiate about 6' of incline between parking lot and water's edge... Gradual slope, but I can just about make it single-handed with my AI.... No question but a TI would need two people or one person a lot stronger than Yours Truly.... My AI weighs 250# as-sailed.

I have had it up on the roof racks 3 times - getting it up a different way each time - and I was scared every time.... Somewhere along the line I managed to bend a set of these things: https://www.prolineracks.com/item/Thule ... arrier-456, so they're not the answer.... Least-scary methods involved two lifts: first one end up on to the racks, and then the other end.

For marine users, there is also the issue of salt water dripping from a hull on roof racks..... Rusted out the roof on my '98 Suburban with drippings from roof-rack-mounted windsurfers: it got into the POS mounting screws that GM used to attach the racks on and spread from there.

Bottom Line: either get comfortable/practiced with getting somebody else's AI on/off your roof racks before buying or be prepared to buy a trailer as Plan-B. .... I wound up with a Trailex SUT-450: 8" wheels, about as close to the ground as possible for easy on/off with beach wheels.... highly recommended, but be prepared for sticker shock at toll booths with any trailer.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 7:46 pm 
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I'm in fantastic shape (lifting/running) at 52 and I wouldn't even consider a TI without a trailer or for that matter an AI. Those light weight Trail-EX trailers are perfect for the job and make storing, travel, setup far easier. The TI is worth the extra weight over the AI, even if single, which I prefer. Still that TI can be a handful even for me in certain conditions, especially when camping new shores here in Costa Rica. What's better than owning a TI? A TI with another smaller mobile Hobie mono hull for quick trips. For ocean, Revolution 11, for freshwater, Sport. Good luck on the adventures!!!

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2018 10:44 am 
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So have you decided on what you're going with?
Do any renting yet?

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2018 1:08 pm 
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PeteCress wrote:
For marine users, there is also the issue of salt water dripping from a hull on roof racks..... Rusted out the roof on my '98 Suburban with drippings from roof-rack-mounted windsurfers: it got into the POS mounting screws that GM used to attach the racks on and spread from there.

Bottom Line: either get comfortable/practiced with getting somebody else's AI on/off your roof racks before buying or be prepared to buy a trailer as Plan-B. .... I wound up with a Trailex SUT-450: 8" wheels, about as close to the ground as possible for easy on/off with beach wheels.... highly recommended, but be prepared for sticker shock at toll booths with any trailer.

Amen! I've corroded out 2 vehicles (Ford Bronco and Toyota 4-Runner) by car-topping kayaks used in saltwater. Car-topping kayaks used is saltwater is NUTS!

Keith

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"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 1:04 am 
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Sailorv wrote:
And regarding ferries costs.....you're telling us you plan to take that many ferry trips to offset $3-$5k (you said you were better off giving away the Island in AK)? Are you pretty dedicated to mainly exploring AK and BC? Have you consided a totally different option of travelling and buying a cruising boat that could hold an AI on deck and then AI from anchor?


One ferry trip to Alaska, the price difference is most of the cost of a TI. The Alaskan Ferries from Washington state to even Valdez are very expensive and over length doubles the price.

I have considered buying a sailing boat, in fact I owned one for many years. It’s not for me, so RVs are the way to go.

$80k is pretty cheap for a new Motorhome these days.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 1:07 am 
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No renting yet. No way to rent a TI here in Texas that I have found.

Have kinda given up on the box truck idea for the time being. Think I may just do a class-b and tow the TI, if I get one. I’m afraid I may simply not get one because towing would be problematic logistically (not so much the towing but having a place to put it—. I won’t have a home base I return to, I’ll be traveling full time.)


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 11:22 am 
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So maybe now you're back to an Adventure Island. The main Hull on an adventure island is right at the upper end of what a single person can handle fairly readily. In my opinion one person handling a tandem Island especially if it's going on top of a tall vehicle is perhaps a bridge too far with the extra length and weight making it too unwieldy.

Unless you are both large people, The Adventure Island with at least one pontoon out can easily handle two.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 6:31 pm 
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We have many years of sea kayaking on Lake Superior (long, slim, fast, stiff, lightweight kevlar boats--even the doubles). We began fishing more often and tried a couple of Hobie PA's for their fishability--we were surprised we liked them as much as we did--(short, wide, flexible). We bought sails with them, just for fun. The sailing started to cut into our fishing time and we added a Tandem Island. Four years later we are no longer car-topping, but trailering with a 6x12 ft aluminum enclosed trailer.

To pull it: At home, we use a medium size suv; For trips we use a 24 ft class B RV. Yes, as you noted, the total length is 38 ft. We take up two pull-through spots in a big box/supermarket parking lot. More importantly, the trailer is light enough that we can detach it, and move it by hand, to fit tight camp or launch sites. The trailer floor is also aluminum, so rust isn't a problem when we fish salt water. Everything but the TI is enclosed, locked and out of the weather. FWIW, we did not have the trailer when we picked up the TI, but it fit inside the class B RV (disassembled)--not a routine approach, but we used it once.

Here is a pict of us packed ready for launch to a Florida fishing trip later this week.
Image

Here is the inside with the two PA's
Image

We have two options to load the TI; one we learned from a fusioneng post: If we have 2 people, I run a line from the TI bow to the front of the trailer carrier pipes, through a pulley and then back to the TI bow, where the 2nd person can control the bow with the line. Then I lift the TI's bow (hull only--the amas, etc are removed) and set it on the roller at the rear of the pipes--maybe am lifting 1/3 of the TI's weight. With one person pulling on the bow rope and the other pushing/lifting the stern the TI slides fine along the pipes.

Here is the front pulley where we thread a bow line
Image

If only me to load the TI, then I hook a very long folding ladder to the pipes at the rear roof. The ladder has coroplast covering its rungs for easy TI sliding. I replace the pulley on the bow pipes with a winch and use a hand-held wired remote to pull the TI up the ladder ramp. With the winch, I leave on the amas/seats/drives. Without the winch, I only lift the bare hull.

Here is a bad pict of the winch--it fits over the two bow pipes--winch above, battery under it
Image

Here is a pict of the inside showing the PVC pipes and wood rack holding the PA's
Image

We considered a trailer long enough to enclose the TI, but decided to go with the shorter/lighter option. At home, we have a trailer for just the TI (a wood deck (covered with coreoplast) with PVC pipes, set on top of a small boat trailer), so we can launch fully rigged with the ama's extended. For the trips when we take 3 boats, we use the enclosed trailer option.

If a trailer is used, the tow vehicle can get smaller, as gear can go into the trailer. For example a 20 ft class B like the Winnebago Revel, (has 4x4 drive and more ground clearance), would shorten the total length to 34 ft and allow travel on uneven/unpaved routes.


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