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PostPosted: Sun May 26, 2019 7:52 am 
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Joined: Sun May 26, 2019 7:22 am
Posts: 8
Where can I find an internal diagram showing the detailed placement of cabling, ropes and bungees, routing of cabling, ropes and bungees? And video links to repairing all cabling, ropes and bungees in the hull.

Once an up or down rudder line breaks, how do you replace it?
Why are the internal routing tubes placed so far from the hatches?
How does anyone with normal length and properly proportioned arms reach the internal cable routing areas?

MAJOR COMPLAINT: This is pathetic engineering and design. Placing critical mechanisms where they cannot be reached in case of the cords breaking, providing no part numbers for internal part replacement, providing no video on how to replace, providing no hull wiring photos and diagrams so the internal routing of each line can be viewed in situ, and designing a system where the internal cabling fixtures are unreachable is insane. Worse, is pretending it is not a problem. Basically, when my flimsy internal "up rudder line" broke, my $8000 investment became junk.

I have rigged a solution, but I have NO idea if the cabling is running in the right channels, what those channels are, etc.

Really unhappy with this design flaw and lack of diagrams and support. Even my dealer cannot get answers.


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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2019 2:46 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2011 1:58 am
Posts: 2887
Location: Forster, NSW, Australia
A helpful step would be to use a small camera/phone to take multiple photos inside a standard Island, and then label them carefully by pushing and pulling etc to ensure you have it right.

I had a real problem fully lowering the rudder on my TI (which led to snapping one of the turning lines because the rudder blade was no longer semi-balanced), which turned out to be caused by the lines from the front and rear handles twisting enough to almost lock the line. I solved this problem by cutting the down line under the front seat, inserting s small (fishing tackle) swivel, and relocating the return block from under the gunwhale next to the "foothold wedges" to alongside the front hatch. The Rudder Down handle line now runs into the hull at the normal position, forward to the turning block, and then aft to the front of the new swivel. My down line now is butter smooth, and the rudder comes into the operating position with a healthy loud clunk.

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Tony Stott
2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker


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PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2019 8:32 am 
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Joined: Sun May 26, 2019 7:22 am
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Thanks mate. Hobie should provide an internal (inside the hull) parts and rope, bungee and wiring diagram that includes images, comparable to the diagrams they have for all exterior lines. I don't even know where the "foothold wedges" should be located.

tonystott wrote:
A helpful step would be to use a small camera/phone to take multiple photos inside a standard Island, and then label them carefully by pushing and pulling etc to ensure you have it right.

I had a real problem fully lowering the rudder on my TI (which led to snapping one of the turning lines because the rudder blade was no longer semi-balanced), which turned out to be caused by the lines from the front and rear handles twisting enough to almost lock the line. I solved this problem by cutting the down line under the front seat, inserting s small (fishing tackle) swivel, and relocating the return block from under the gunwhale next to the "foothold wedges" to alongside the front hatch. The Rudder Down handle line now runs into the hull at the normal position, forward to the turning block, and then aft to the front of the new swivel. My down line now is butter smooth, and the rudder comes into the operating position with a healthy loud clunk.


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PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2019 9:54 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2011 1:58 am
Posts: 2887
Location: Forster, NSW, Australia
The "foothold wedges" are my pathetic attempt at describing the indentations on either side of the drive well, designed to help your feet get support when paddling. Does that make sense?

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Tony Stott
2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2019 5:25 am 
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Joined: Sun May 26, 2019 7:22 am
Posts: 8
That is a perfect description of those particular indents! I was thinking you were referring to \the two large pieces of black Styrofoam in my hull and where they might belong. l am clueless on that one. The good news is I successfully fixed the the rudder ropes.


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2019 8:55 am 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 13100
Location: Oceanside, California
Some helpful info is in the Island FAQ and support pages.

https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=117&t=44479

https://www.hobie.com/support/mirage-tandem-island/

https://static.hobiecat.com/digital_assets/Twist-n-Stow_Repair_Manual_hUo8dIw.pdf
Different rudder, but the same concept.

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2019 9:12 am 
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Joined: Sun May 26, 2019 7:22 am
Posts: 8
Thanks Matt. Saw both of those. Hobie needs to create pix of the entire inside hull with all cabling and pulleys shown. Where do the foam blocks go? How do we reach all these areas to replace the cords and thread cords through the pulleys? A video would help. Love to see a live video of someone reaching into the hull and actually re-routing the rudder lines that have snapped. It’s easy to replace the attached cords.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2019 3:41 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2013 10:51 am
Posts: 12
Thanks for the links Matt. They are helpful, but as someone who has struggled with control line twisting and interference for 4 years, I'd echo the desire for a little more photo/video support in this area. I just ordered the line replacement kit since my rudder uphaul broke, so I'll be overhauling everything at once and I'd like it to work as designed. Foam blocks moved the first time the inside of the hull got wet, so I'm not exactly sure where those should go either. Photos/video would be much appreciated!


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2019 5:48 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 26, 2008 8:50 pm
Posts: 94
Location: Highland, IN
I'm having fits with my internal cables too. I noticed my tiller got harder to move, and the rudder up/down T-handles required a HARD pull to raise or lower the rudder. Felt around inside the hull, and it seems the respective control cable pairs are twisted around each other; HOW does THAT happen? I was on vacation in northern MI when this started to happen, got home yesterday before anything failed, fortunately. Spent about 6-8 hours of driving chasing down parts at 3 different dealers (while I was on vacation) and had to fix a broken Mirage Drive, and do the fin upgrade MYSELF. I'll dive into the cable problem tomorrow. :x


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 02, 2019 9:32 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 30, 2017 10:54 am
Posts: 26
I understand that the dual rudder control is complex, but its is probably my biggest beef with the boat that I otherwise love.

To me, the most frustrating part is trying to align the front and back handles. To me a better way to do it would be to have the rear handle have 2 wings which attach directly to the rudder controls and then have individual connections to the front. Maybe even add a turnbuckle or something in there to make it easy to adjust the tension and balance the handles.


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