Jib hayard tension and wings support while trailering

Question #1. When securing the jib hayard after the jib is up do you tighten it until the forestay slacks? (the jib hayard is significantly smaller then the forestay wire, can it hold the pressure?)
Question #2. Any good ideas how to keep the wings from resting on the diamond wires while stored for trailering, without lowering the mast closer to the boat?(Front post not adjustable, and have one of the old mast holders that is a 2 piece?

Thank you for any support


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The jib halyard tension should be snug, but not too firm. Just enough to take the wrinkles out. Not so tight that it makes the forestay loose.

Then, when sailing, you pull the mainsheet tension firm to very firm whilst sailing upwind and that further increases the jib luff tension naturally which is what you want/need. Then, when the boat is sailing downwind with loose mainsheet tension the forestay and jib luff tension goes slack and subsequently allows the jib luff tension to also go loose which is what you want/need.

If the jib luff tension is not tight enough upwind in conditions when you are two on trapeze, try pulling on more mainsail downhaul/luff tension and then more mainsheet tension to get more tension on the forestay. We don’t adjust our jib luff tension for different wind conditions. We are relying on more mainsail luff tension and then more mainsheet tension to increase the forestay load and thus increase the jib luff tension. By applying this technique, you will also have better height or pointing ability upwind.
- x x x x x x -
I have no idea about fixing the wings. We use Red Bull........

_________________
John Forbes
Hobie 18 Reimagined
Sail # 490
Boat name: 18@heart
http://www.hobie18.fun
https://www.facebook.com/Hobie18catamaran/

You could turn the mast around - trailer it with the comp tip forward.
On my trailer this lets the mast ride in the cradle on the aluminum section right above where the diamond wires attach.
I figure the less stress on the comp tip joint, the better.
It will be more trouble to get the boat set up, though - mast pointing the wrong way, has to be turned around...

I made wing supports based off of this PVC pipe design I found on thebeachcats. It works perfect. The only thing I did different was to add an additional wooden cross support about 6-8” above the wye junction to give additional support to the arms.

https://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures?g2_itemId=11711&g2_GALLERYSID=cf2d98e24ee9c4058f363ee15b239bb3

Regarding jib luff tension, hoist the boom up using the main halyard and tie off the halyard. Then pull on a moderate amount of mainsheet tension. This will pre-load the forestay. Then raise the jis and set the desired tension. This will help to ensure you don’t over or under tension the halyard.

Also, when raising the jib, are you using the thin halyard line to hoist and then using a separate “tensioning line” to set the tension and secure the wire halyard?

Suggest you get some sort of cradle between the single trailer rollers and the bottom of the hull. Even some straight 2x6 with a little carpet on top is better than the roller. Avoid point loading the hull as doing so can cause damage.

sm

Outstanding advise thank you sir. The pictures help wonders. Now just need to figure out the roller issue you pointed out....

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Just needs a road test

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You definitely need to rake your spreader arms back more. There should be a couple of holes in the arm that allows more rake.

More rake of the spreader arms allows the mast to bend easier when you pull the downhaul luff tension on which helps de-power the sail in strong wind.

_________________
John Forbes
Hobie 18 Reimagined
Sail # 490
Boat name: 18@heart
http://www.hobie18.fun
https://www.facebook.com/Hobie18catamaran/

You must also put a small piece of webbing then many wraps of electrical tape over the tips of the spreader arms otherwise the sharp end of the arms will wear and tear your jib. Don’t rely on the reinforcement patch on the jib. Jibs are A$1000. (Do this wrapping after you have adjusted your spreader arms - see note above).

_________________
John Forbes
Hobie 18 Reimagined
Sail # 490
Boat name: 18@heart
http://www.hobie18.fun
https://www.facebook.com/Hobie18catamaran/

Wing support looks good. Only thing, like I mentioned in my original post, on mine I added an extra cross brace between the two PVC support arms about 6” or so above the wye fitting. The PVC arms seemed a bit too flexible without the extra brace. It is just a 2 or 3 inch wide piece of pressure treated wood thru bolted with some 1/4-20 screws. Stiffened the thing up nicely.

Also, are you connecting your jib sheets to the roller furler and pulling them back tight for trailering? Hard to tell for sure, but it looks that way from the picture. I highly recommend NOT doing that on the 18. If you notice, doing this puts a kink in the bridle wire right at the bow tang terminal fitting. I recommend either tieing the bridle wires up to the mast for trailering or removing them entirely from the boat (that is what I do). Putting kinks in wires significantly reduces their strength and can ultimately lead to failure.

sm

I agree with sm about the bridle wires. I remove mine completely. I leave the bridle and fuller attached to the forestay. Instead undoing the clevis pin on the forestay, undo both clevis pins on the bridle at the hull tangs. They will last much longer in the sailbox, as will your furler. I also remove my jib blocks and jib sheet. I have snap shackles on my jib blocks for quick release when rigging and derigging. By removing all of this means you will get longer life from your parts, less UV degradation, less bouncing around whilst travelling, less wear and tear in general.

_________________
John Forbes
Hobie 18 Reimagined
Sail # 490
Boat name: 18@heart
http://www.hobie18.fun
https://www.facebook.com/Hobie18catamaran/

Another tip: try locating your trolley wheels down on the trailer frame so they don’t sit on the hulls. We use a jockey wheel brace laying flat across the trailer frame draw bar for easy attachment to the trailer (assuming you use a 2” tube). See photos attached.



https://www.dropbox.com/s/sj31pa69ebppq ... 1.jpg?dl=0

P.S. let me know if you can’t see the images - I’m a virgin at posting photos on a forum.

_________________
John Forbes
Hobie 18 Reimagined
Sail # 490
Boat name: 18@heart
http://www.hobie18.fun
https://www.facebook.com/Hobie18catamaran/

The pictures and link are broken. I'd love some ideas for alternative locations for the wheels

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When trailering my H18 I leave the furled jib on the forestay, stowed in the catbox (or tow vehicle). When lowering the mast I detach the bridal wires from the bow. Once the mast is down I detach the upper forestay at the swivel from the jib block, stowing the pin back in the jib block. I then stow the lower forestay assembly, furler, bridal wires, and furled sail in my catbox, gently coiled.

]The pictures and link are broken. I'd love some ideas for alternative locations for the wheels

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Hmmm. I need advice on how to insert the pictures then. I have them both in iPhotos and in my Dropbox. I have IMG ticked on. Help!

_________________
John Forbes
Hobie 18 Reimagined
Sail # 490
Boat name: 18@heart
http://www.hobie18.fun
https://www.facebook.com/Hobie18catamaran/

John, for pictures you need them posted somewhere publicly on the internet, as this forum doesn't host the pictures, it just "links" to them. I previously used photobucket, though it seems they no longer offer free photo sharing because they're pestering me about upgrading storage and have watermarked my signature . Google photos might work if the image is shared with a link, or maybe facebook if it's a public image... anywhere you can obtain a link for the image address. Then right click on the image, select "copy image address" and then paste that link on the forum, in between the {img}{/img} brackets like so: {img}http://example.com/image.jpg{/img}

_________________
Mike

'79 H18 standard 'Rocketman II' sail #14921 RIP
'78 H18 (unnamed) sail #14921
'08 H16 sail #114312
'97 H21SC sail #238