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PostPosted: Sun Jul 28, 2019 7:27 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 22, 2019 6:13 pm
Posts: 16
I've been crewing a while on a couple other sailboats (Catalina 25 and Capri 22), but the catamaran appears to be set up completely different. So far, I've not got it figured out enough to take the cat out, and I'd like to do this in the next week. have a few questions I need to get answered, so hopefully someone can help me out.

1) How much tension is needed for the shrouds? I have slight slack in the shrouds, but I can't get them very taught. When I get them mostly taught, I'm about 1/2 from one adjustment point to the next. Is this adequate? Do I need to pull this taught to where I make it to the next hole down (presuming I can)?

2) There is over 40'+ foot line that goes around pulleys for the traveler and the blocks. I've reeved the mainsheet according to this: https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source= ... 8032324709. I've been attempting to compare the way this works to the afore mentioned sailboats, but this configuration on the cat seems really clunky and I have 25+' of loose line. I don't understand how this is supposed to work, where/how the line is to be stored, etc., but any assistance here would be great. I've spent hours looking on Google and YouTube, but I can't figure this out. What in the heck do you do with the extra line? Does this setup work pretty good once you get it on the water? Any recommended modifications?

3) In the small end of the mast rotation yoke, there appears to be a pulley attached. My boat does not have one, and I can't find a part number anywhere. Does anyone know what this part is, or at least some basic dimensions?

4) The last question for today is all the rigging around the yoke, including the downhaul line, boom shockcord, etc. Is there a clean diagram anywhere exactly how these need to be run?

Thanks


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2019 2:38 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2018 4:06 pm
Posts: 95
Location: Sydney, Australia
Hi albaker,

Firstly, welcome and let’s hope your Hobie 18 brings you a lot of joy.

The rigging should be firm but not over tight. One person leaning gently on the trapeze wire while the second person puts the clevis pin in the adjuster should be sufficient. It does not matter if one side is one or two holes different to the other side. Even is good, but certainly not critical. I would also recommend lots of mast rake. Let the forestay out to the furthest back rake until the sidestay shrouds bottom out under tension, then remove the (stupid) twist toggles under the sidestay chainplates so you can get even more rake and still have some sidestay tension. My boats own Facebook page has photo examples of how to measure the correct mast rake.

Mainsheet and traveller line. You will need enough line to thread the entire 7:1 (or 8:1) mainsheet system AND the traveller line. Once fully threaded up, slide the traveller car 90% of the way out and release some mainsheet tension, again about 80% out. With both main and traveller out, the spare rope should be able to touch the front main beam at the outer beam bolt. That is the guide for the correct rope length. Any longer than that and you can cut it off. Significantly shorter than that and you will have issues in strong wind when racing. My boats own Facebook page has photo examples of how to thread the mainsheet and traveller line.

For the mast rotation yoke, the early model yokes required a pulley to be shackled to the hole where the two stainless steel rods met easy other. On the later models (my boat), the yoke has a curved end and no pulley required. The rope just slides through and around the curved stainless tube. The pulley on the old models kept getting caught on the boom and fouled during tacks and gybes thus the yoke upgrade on the later boats. On my boat I have moved it to the mast base to stop it fouling on everything. You may need to look on other boats photos on my Facebook page to see the more traditional set up.

There are many different methods of lacing up the mainsail downhaul luff tension. I run 8:1 and adjustable from the trapeze. Other use 5:1 and only adjustable at the mast.

For the boom attachment I highly recommend using the Trentec Super Goose alloy block part number 1510. It provides a much better fitment of the boom to the mast.

Please be sure to view the many different photo albums on my boats Facebook page as there are lots of tips and tricks for rigging, racing and making it easier to sail. Most photos have Comments explaining what is relevant in each picture.

Keep sending your questions in but 99% should be answered if you troll through the photos and videos I have posted.

_________________
John Forbes
Hobie 18 Reimagined
Sail # 490
Boat name: 18@heart
http://www.hobie18.fun
https://www.facebook.com/Hobie18catamaran/


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2019 12:35 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 22, 2019 6:13 pm
Posts: 16
Thanks, John - you've been a wealth of info.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2019 1:22 pm 
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Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2018 4:06 pm
Posts: 95
Location: Sydney, Australia
albaker wrote:
Thanks, John - you've been a wealth of info.


No problems. There are lots of different photo albums on my boats Facebook page so be sure you select SEE ALL to view them all. Some are categorised, some a random photos.

_________________
John Forbes
Hobie 18 Reimagined
Sail # 490
Boat name: 18@heart
http://www.hobie18.fun
https://www.facebook.com/Hobie18catamaran/


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