Converting older pull-up rudder to twist-n-stow

I have the older pull-up only rudder on my Tandem and wanted to upgrade to the larger sailing rudder to stop the weather helm I was experiencing in stronger winds. I also wanted the advantage of the twist-n-stow (t&s) which tucks the rudder up and in and out of the way.
To fit the t&s Hobie have changed the kayak design and added about 50mm/2" of plastic to the stern, getting rid of the stainless pull up mechanism. They have also changed the up/down handle-making it stronger by through-bolting and the control arm up/down (not sure how but it is a different part no.)

I gained the benefits of t&s by doing the following: (note -there are two parts to this “how toâ€

Stringy, what a great adaptation and excellent presentation! Your quality and finish are first rate.

For the rudder mount, it looks like the critical part here is your welded extension, which was very neatly done. It appears that the spacer is at a slight angle for the rudder to clear the boat, and the bottom portion of the original rudder mount is shortened for the same reason.

To simplify, could you keep your spacer parallel using an off the shelf 1 or 1.5 " (3 cm +/-) bar-stock and instead, cut a notch in the leading edge of the rudder so that it clears the boat (and keep the original down-tube, providing a little more down leverage)? Here is a poor example of notching the rudder:


These rudders are real easy to re-shape and customize.

With your merger of the two rudder systems, are there now two ways for the rudder to kick up -- the Twist N Stow kick-up system and the old kick up method?

Your line management scheme is brilliant, handling both rudder deployment methods at will! Again, everything looks professionally done. IMO, this has the potential to make a nice little conversion kit, and opens up access for any of the older models to the sailing rudder.

Thanks Roadrunner for the positive comments.
Yes- you are right about the angled spacer -very observant!. I did originally think I could use a straight spacer but the rudder did hit the stern -unless I mounted it a long way back. I was reluctant to notch a brand new rudder -hence the angle.
If I was doing it all over again I wouldn't cut the original mount. It would be better to notch the rudder as you said.
You are also correct regarding the dual kick up methods. I have found that the original system is easier to use when on the water and the t&s is better for transport.
I am working out a way to fit the extension without welding so that it would be easy to fit using standard tools. Will post when I have finished it.

Hey Ya'll
Effing brilliant mod you did there Stringy..simply top shelf
RoadRunner..how bout taking those road bike's down off the wall that I see in the background of your picture of the rudder and showing them some love too..
Kepnutz

Stringy,
I just bought what I thought was a 2009 Hobie Oasis, but it turned out to be a new 2007 model, which has the older Mirage drives and rudder. I bought a sail and want to sail the kayak in the ocean.

It appears that someone modified your post how to convert the older flip-up rudder to the new twist-n-stow and removed your 2-part conversion process. Please re-post a link to the process. thanks!