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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 9:33 pm 
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Location: Escondido
This procedure illustrates the removal and replacement of sprockets and drums.

Tools and Materials used: Phillips head screw driver (not shown); shaft removal pin (an old mast works well); hammer; 7/16" wrench; 1/8" Allen wrench; needle nose pliers (optional); needle nose vice grips (for old style cable removal); Locktite; grease.
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1. Remove chain/cable nuts on one side; peal away chain. This is probably a good time to remove and set aside your fins.
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2. Unscrew Allen screw that holds the sprocket shaft in position. This is located between the sprockets on the right side.
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3. Slide drums off (recommended) for convenience. Remember which side they go on.
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4. Tap sprocket shaft out. Tip: if shaft resists movement, it is probably corroded. Lube w/ penetrating oil and tap one way then the other to loosen it up.
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5. Clean all parts (including drums). Note notch at center if sprocket shaft where Allen screw seats. Remove any surface corrosion on shaft w/ steel wool or crocus cloth as necessary.
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6. Transfer sprocket guard and clew outhaul to new sprockets if you are replacing them. Drill pilot holes if necessary for sprocket guard screws.
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7. Mark CLEAN DRY sprocket shaft on both clean ends using permanent marker or grease pencil (better). Tip: your mark should be accurately marked with the notched side clearly indicated. Note: permanent marker is not permanent in the presence of grease -- be careful not to accidentally wipe it off until finished
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Tip: Reverse shaft if it is worn or scored to leave the fresh side facing down. This side shows wear and will be reinserted facing up.
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This side looks virtually new and will be inserted face down. Image

8. Mark chain at middle link to help locate master cog later
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9. Grease sprockets inside clean shaft using Q tip or clean stick. LIGHTLY grease the half of shaft that is going back in first.

10. Install shaft from either end noting location of slot.
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Tip: push shaft in to sprocket cavity slightly to help locate sprocket as shown:
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11. Check alignment before finishing inserting sprocket shaft; then tap in remainder of way
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12. Locktite Allen screw and seat screw. Tighten snugly, but do not over tighten so as to stress bearing surface. Pic shows approximate proper seating depth. If it's not recessed, it's not properly seated.
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13. Grease and slide drums onto drumshaft, noting correct side (drums are actually reversible but pedals, once installed are not).

14. Note master cog on sprocket is fatter than the others. Press the marked chain link into this cog. It may take some doing to get the chain fully seated, especially with a new chain and new sprocket. Work from the master cog out to either side to make sure the chain is fully seated.
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15. Reinstall chain/cables working forward from the rear chain. If you are installing the new '08 style drums and chains, here is more detail: http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewtopic.php?t=8642
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16. Adjust chain/cables starting with the idler cable and working back. See this link (step #3) for additional adjustment instructions if necessary. http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewt ... 9602#29602
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8)


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 1:51 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 2:25 pm
Posts: 2863
Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
Many thanks for posting this Roadrunner.
This was really the last chapter that was missing from my workshop manual made up from your previous how-to posts. All Hobie need to do now is incorporate all of them in the FAQ's.
Those that like to service their own gear are indebted to you.8)


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 10:01 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
Posts: 3017
Location: Escondido
Stringy, thanks for your kind comments. Doing these "how-to" pieces has been educational for me as well. Learning a variety of techniques and procedures has taught me a great deal about tuning, adjusting, making repairs and updating components. As a direct result, my Mirage Drives are now virtually problem free.

The most amazing part is the dramatic improvement in distance and cruising speed a person can achieve when their Drive is running up to its potential!

Almost anybody can accomplish the same results. 8)


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 10:24 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 27, 2006 4:50 pm
Posts: 494
Location: sacramento california
Hows it Going Roadie ?! :D
Kepnutz


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 21, 2008 4:09 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2008 3:51 am
Posts: 153
Location: Grantham, NH
I believe I read that the production of the standard sprockets with set screws for the masts will continue. What I am not clear on is whether or not the threaded insert sprockets will be the standard for stock drive units for 2009.

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http://www.aldenofsunapee.com/
Image http://www.NEKF.com/
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 6:11 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 19, 2007 6:14 pm
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Location: South Florida
Roadrunner,

I haven't done this yet, but THANKYOU, THANKYOU, THANKYOU on behalf of all ordinary folks like me.

I can now begin...

Keith

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"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 2:29 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2008 4:36 am
Posts: 837
Location: Gippsland Lakes Victoria Australia
Chekika wrote:
Roadrunner,

I haven't done this yet, but THANKYOU, THANKYOU, THANKYOU on behalf of all ordinary folks like me.

I can now begin...

Keith

Roadrunner,
The instructions and photos in this thread are first class!! :D
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, skill and experience with us. 8) :)
I would like to buy you a drink too - if we ever get a chance to meet up. :!: :D
Mickey


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 11:00 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
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Location: Escondido
Keith, I saw the pics of your reassembled Drive -- nice job. I've had the same benefit from many of the others here (past and present) -- Apalach, norman ernsting (AKA Punchinello), Lone Wolfe, Stobbo, stringy, reconlon, Gwiz, Yakaholic, and those whose names unfortunately escape me at the moment. :oops:

Mickey thanks, that's one more reason I'd like to visit Australia! Maybe it's a good thing I waited :lol: . I tried to take leave there once when stationed (almost) nearby in Japan but they turned me down -- must have been afraid I wouldn't come back! 8)


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 3:21 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2012 6:18 am
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Location: Boynton Beach, FL
Many thanks Roadrunner! Even your 2008 posts are helping many of us.
I was upgrading one of my V1 drives to Turbo fins (which I plan to store and transport sheathed) and I found that the bushing screw threads were totally stripped.
Now that I am left needing a new sprocket, I decided to get the V2 upgrade kit because I really like the idea of the screw in masts. This does not look like the easiest project, so I plan on relying heavily on your excellent narrative. It has lots of helpful tips that one (at least I) would not have though of ahead of time.

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Mike


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 3:08 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 5:17 pm
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Location: Auckland NZ
It's dead easy - just done mine (retrofitting stainless sprockets to a set-screw drive for ease of maintenance) - only a 30minute job max.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 5:40 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 26, 2017 5:34 pm
Posts: 1
Great Post! Thanks. :D

Unfortunately, the link to the photos is broken. :o
Can you please fix.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2017 10:38 am 
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Location: Escondido
Try this video instead (see second post) -- current complete rebuild including sprockets. 8)
https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=78&t=60676


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