Switching out Masts on the New V2 to Turbo Fin Masts

The stock masts seem to be locked in the sprockets with way too much locktite.....

After some trial and error I managed to get the stock mast to come loose with a NEW, Sharp Bladed pair of Vise Grips.

I locked the vise grips on the mast (tightly) about 1/3 way down from the sprocket and rocked back and forth (slightly), then with a strong steady pressure in one direction, I unscrewed the mast a full turn until it came loose.
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The small pipe wrench didn't work, and would only create a sloppy grip.

Use a New Pair of Full Size Vise Grips.

Yes, earlier production seems to be very snug. We have tried to work on that. It is a tough balance between staying in or coming loose.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

I had to remove a pair of threaded turbo masts from a set of V2 sprockets that had only been installed a month. And yes I did use locktite.

There were an absolute bear to get unscrewed. Forget about even trying to use a screwdriver on the little slot on the end of the mast.

Best tool is probable a bench vise, not having one, I used a pair of vise grips. Couldn't use a rag as a cushion, it was metal to metal which of course left tool marks on the turbo masts.

It is great that we don't have to worry about the masts ever falling out. So, I wouldn't change anything in that respect.

An idea for Hobie:

Drill a 1/8" - 3/16" hole near the bottom of the masts (end furthest from threaded area). Then we can insert a metal tool (like a phillips screwdriver or piece of metal stock) to form a "T" handle on the end of the mast. That should provide enough leverage without tearing up the mast. Also, placing the hole near the mast end won't weaken the mast any.

Skip the machine shop work of adding a slot/notch to the end - just drill a hole.

PS - If Hobie uses my idea I want some free Hobie stuff as royalties

We need 2 flat spots on there we could put a wrench on. Vise grips just slide round and round until it "bites" if we have 2 flat spots ground out it'd be an easy swap.

_________________
Brad Stephens
[email protected]
(866) 786-5266 <--- Advice HOTline
http://www.sunjammers.com
www.facebook.com/sunjammers

That might work, my experiece with 2 flat spots and a wrench is that the wrench would just round off the flat spot. If the end of the mast had a hex head and you used a 6point wrench or socket & you would be fine.

If nothing else though, flat spots near the end would allow a vise grip to work just dandy.

Right you are about the vise grips sliding around until they bite, Then they leave a nasty set of tool marks to catch the flipper.

It's important to remember that the fins rotate on the mast and this is a wear point. It doesn't seem like a big deal until you remember that those fins can cause the older Allenhead sprockets to drop a mast. They'll unscrew a threaded mast in short order if you forget to use Locktite or some other binder. Try it yourself if you have any doubts. They are relentless!

Any mast surface that is not round and smooth will increase friction and accelerate wear on the fins at that point. From that standpoint, Yak's original hole proposal would seem to be best for fin longevity.

It follows that any residual grip marks on the masts should be filed or sanded off and the surface smoothed. The better the fins are free to articulate on the mast the more efficient the operation. A little shot of silicone in the mast hole doesn't hurt either.

Exactly! Correct on all accounts.
I HAD to remove the mast and was real sorry to see nasty tool marks I made. Used grinder and then some sandpaper to smooth out the marks.

Love how the mast stays put! But, Hobie needs to get us a way to remove masts without destroying them.

I like the idea of a hex head at the end, which would enable a socket. Handy ppl could file it in by hand.
I have used a piece of rubber or latex to minimize tool damage from visegrips (in other jobs).