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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2011 8:15 pm 
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I have two identical 07 outbacks. I have an idea for 'extended range operations' with a buddy, primarily focused on getting back up river after float hunting for ducks. I envision connecting the two Outbacks via two cross pieces, fore and aft of the seat using the molded in rod holders as anchoring points. I'd like to put an angle cut across a wooden dowel nearly the same diameter as the rod holders, the run all-thread through the center, making two cylindrical wedges that push against each other and thus outward as a nut is tightened down on the thread. This would anchor my cross pieces, and on the aft cross piece, I plan to mount a small aircooled outboard (3.6 hp). I envision that each yak would carry half the rig in his well or internal to the yak, then when the day's hunt is over, we assemble and motor back up river. No two trucks needed and can go as far or as short as we desire (limit out on ducks early, turn around go home). River can have a decent current, so don't want to try to peddle all the way back up it (Sometimes 12-15 mile floats are possible).

In principle, I'm really in love with the idea. Worried a little bit about being able to reach the motor from the yak seat. May have to get more complex to where we both ride in the center (trampoline?), but that means more material and more weight. Also curious as to your thoughts on the stress that will be put on the attachment points, if molded in rod-holder idea will work.

Now all you purists just take it easy. I love my outback and love to fish out of it, and I already have a motor boat too. I just want to find a way to use the yaks in the cold weather with some extra flexibility (would 35 degree water make the plastic too brittle if we did hit a log?). Thanks in advance for your serious comments!


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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2011 5:12 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 5:17 pm
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Location: Auckland NZ
A similar product already exists - called the Switch kayaks (see http://www.switchsports.co.nz/) - these can be set up as individual kayaks or 2 can be joined together as a catamaran and either powered (I think) or sailed.
Clearly they don't benefit from having anything like a Mirage drive however ! If there's a dealer where you live you might go & see how it is done, alternatively by contacting the manufacturer you might be able to glean some info from them

Also, I regularly see a couple out in my local waters on their "catamayak" - this is 2 sit in sea kayaks linked together in a catamaran configuration with a small outboard between them. Don't know much more about the set up but it clearly is possible and (judging by how frequently I see this couple out there fishing away) it can be successful.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 5:16 pm 
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My suggestion, if you tried it, would be to find a 2" OD bar with some clamps that you can mount on the kayak, and set the bar up like a Johnny Bar across both boats. I would use caution in that any movement of that bar is going to create a vast amount of tension/flex on those mounts and probably rip them out. Hence the reason for the large mounting surface and molded holes on the Switch kayaks. Another method may be to utilize the forward and aft rod holders on both sides, which would also make the bars easily removable. and probably created a little less stress. This would be more like the AMA/AKA setup on an AI.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 8:14 pm 
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Location: Auckland NZ
Another quick thought - some James Wharram catamarans were/are designed to be tied together - i.e. the hulls were tied to the cross beam I believe.

This approach would seem to have some advantages:
1. no holes in kayaks to devalue the boat and/or let water in
2. no danger of mounting ripping out
3. a certain amount of flexibility inherent in the design so as to absorb the stresses & strains of wind, wave and ballast
4. very strong
5. easily repairable/replaceable.

The question is how might this work to tie your Hobies to a cross beam?!

One of my kayaking friends uses luggage straps round his hull to attach things to the deck because these present a very flat profile & therefore very little drag under water.

I wonder if it wouldn't be possible to effect a very simple test using a couple of beefy square section wooden cross beams and then literally strap the kayaks to these with a couple of luggage straps looped over the beam on one side of the hull, down under the boat, back up the other side and over the beam on the other side. Would be cheap as chips to try, 100% demountable and a similar system has proven ocean-going pedigree...


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 10:01 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 11:04 pm
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stobbo wrote:
Another quick thought - some James Wharram catamarans were/are designed to be tied together - i.e. the hulls were tied to the cross beam I believe.

This approach would seem to have some advantages:
1. no holes in kayaks to devalue the boat and/or let water in
2. no danger of mounting ripping out
3. a certain amount of flexibility inherent in the design so as to absorb the stresses & strains of wind, wave and ballast
4. very strong
5. easily repairable/replaceable.

The question is how might this work to tie your Hobies to a cross beam?!

One of my kayaking friends uses luggage straps round his hull to attach things to the deck because these present a very flat profile & therefore very little drag under water.

I wonder if it wouldn't be possible to effect a very simple test using a couple of beefy square section wooden cross beams and then literally strap the kayaks to these with a couple of luggage straps looped over the beam on one side of the hull, down under the boat, back up the other side and over the beam on the other side. Would be cheap as chips to try, 100% demountable and a similar system has proven ocean-going pedigree...


What if you could do a hybrid of the ideas....PVC pipe mounted in the rod holders, and then something to hold them down in. Ideal suit would be just a bungee over the pipe. This would absorb any difference in the waves, as well as be completely removeable, and collapsible.

The only thing is, if you're intending to power the yaks, then you have a different dilema and will have to use something stroger :)

Here's kind of what I was thinking....
Image

Wouldn't impede the mirage drive, could put a trampoline platform or something in between, etc.

I had a bar going all the way across in front, but that would completely interfere with pedaling.

Other than that, an option might be 2 scotty rod holders, and leave the joints loose as to absorb and track with the wave patterns. Then just put your choice of length of probably 1 1/2" PVC or ABS in between and lock it down, somehow.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 3:45 pm 
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I have tried ratcheting cargo straps to connect a trolling motor, but it was on the front of the yak, and the taper of the bow would cause the straps to slide forward as you tightened. It may work for the rear though, with the force of the motor I'm wanting to use pushing the mount to the forward (where the hull is wider instead of narrower.

So a yoke that is a board across the full width of the two yaks, with slots for two ratchet straps may work. Of course my slippage would have been solved by two slot or cleat type mounts on the yak, but I've put enough holes in it that at the time I didn't want to do more. I've got two 'rocket launcher' rod tubes on RAM mounts just aft of the molded in tubes in the rear, and I've used them for the lobster bouy/PVC outriggers. I may grab onto those, but would have to put another pair on the 2nd outback. Thanks for all the suggestions, will let you know how I go as I progress. Any more thoughts welcome.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 3:49 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 30, 2011 7:53 pm
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Like the ratchet strap idea, may try that. Have tried a similar temporary mount for a trolling motor in the front of one of the yaks, but without some type of cleat or something to stop the strap, it slips forward as you tighten it down on the taper of the bow.

I have RAM mounts just aft of the rear rod holders on one of the outbacks. I made the outrigger kit from lobster bouys that you can see on some other forums. I may be able to tie something into those, or at least use them to anchor the strap and keep it from sliding backwards. I'll let you know how my progress goes, thanks for the comments. Any and all thoughts welcome.


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