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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 5:56 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2005 6:29 pm
Posts: 2763
Location: High Point, NC
If I'm not mistaken, the original Revolution kayaks used both thethen new Twist-N-Stow rudder and the older style lever arm to deploy and retract the system. Is this correct?

I would like to retrofit my new Revolution with the older system (parts are still available I think) if possible. My older Outback (2005) has the lever system and it's just so much better than what came on my new Revo. But I'm not sure if there were any changes to the hull itself in the area where the rudder is fastened, when they switched to the pull-cord system.

I'd appreciate any information on this from older Revo owners who may be familiar with the Revo hull over the past few years. Thanks.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 6:59 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 11, 2010 12:07 pm
Posts: 1041
Location: Ontario, Canada
You want to move from your T-handle system to the older lever style system? Really? That's a move that a huge amount of owners would not want to make, and may hurt the resale value of your boat.

Is it really so bad that you want to rip out a system that most people think is better to replace it with another system? If it's that bad, are you sure it's working properly.

I don't want to talk you out of making your boat perfect for you, but before you spend money, and add holes to your boat, I'd make sure the cause of your frustration isn't a problem with the system.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 7:42 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2005 6:29 pm
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Location: High Point, NC
Thanks for the response. The thing is, I don't buy kayaks in order to resell them. So resale value isn't something I'm worried about. The person who gets this kayak after me will be somebody in my last will and testament.

I have a Hobie with the older system, and now one with the newer. I much prefer the older system and intend to go that route if it's possible.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 8:36 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
Posts: 3017
Location: Escondido
Tom, I think this can be done, provided the original recess has not been removed from the mold. You should photo-document your Outback system to learn the details -- there seems to be a bungee loop in the system you would have to duplicate.

I agree with augaug -- for the infrequent and small amount of time/ effort it takes to bring the rudder up and down, you'll go to a lot of work and expense for an obsolete system that has no advantages (some worked better than others). But then, that's what customizing is all about! :wink:

Good luck with your mod! 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 4:16 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2005 6:29 pm
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Location: High Point, NC
The indent in the hull behind and to the right of the seat is still there, so I'm guessing the hull itself hasn't been changed.

I'm going to pursue the lever retrofit provided I can get the pieces somewhere. Parts acquisition has proven (for me) to be the one weak spot in the Hobie kayak program. Dealers don't like to be bothered with small items like this.

This will be an interesting project - I bought the Revo to use on shallow rivers, thinking I could pull the drive and paddle it like my other kayaks. That won't be possible with the present rudder set-up. I can't paddle the boat with it raised and in the down position it's going to keep getting knocked up and off the small hook/detent every time it contacts the bottom (which will be frequent). I don't want to have to keep yanking a cord every few minutes to reseat the rudder, not to mention I'd much rather have a lever such as that on my Outback. It's foolproof.

I'm going to work on some type of spring loaded rudder that will kick up when it hits an obstruction, but spring back into place once past the obstruction. Whether I'll use a spring or magnets I'm not sure yet. First I want to change out the raising/lowering system itself.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 6:39 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 5:17 pm
Posts: 679
Location: Auckland NZ
Tom, I am with you on this - personally I have never been able to understand what benefits the twist & stow design confers over the up-and-over system of the older models: to me it seems too clever by 3/4 and to be fixing a non-existent problem resulting in the creation of a number of other problems. Good luck with it: I will be interested to hear how you go with your mods !


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