Rethreading the cord for twist & stow rudder

Hi,
While drilling holes to install a Scotty base in front of the right pocket of my Adventure I managed to sever about 8cm (3.5inches) from the cord that lowers the twist & stow rudder and I cannot figure out how to pass the cord back to the outside so I can reattach it to the T handle.
I have tried tying a length of 30lb mono to the end which allows to me to pull the cord into the tube on the inside of the hull but I cannot get it through the hole to the outside.
Hopefully someone knows of a trick I am missing as my nearest dealer is not responding to phone or email. They are also over an hours drive so cannot go weekdays and are only open a few hours on weekends.
Really desperate to get back on the water after a 2 years hiatus due to both full time work and study so an help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Rob.

You can pull the plastic part out of the hull, thread thorough and reinsert.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

Thanks, will see if I can get it out.

You should be able to reach in through the rear hatch and just push it out. Note before removal, there is a clip on the side of the hatch inside the hull to route these tubes around the hatch opening -- when you re-install it you'll know how it routes internally.

Did my best with this but the hold down cleat is in the way stopping the rudder line tube from being pushed out. Tried removing the hold down cleat but the screws just keep turning. Tried getting a spanner on the nuts on the inside but just can't get anything I have to grip. Guess its going to have to wait till I can make the long trip to the dealer.

I snapped mine a while back pulling a tad too much on the down line and had to replace the line. I used that red grass trimmer line (the kind that spins around and cuts your grass. Once I got everything threaded the way I wanted I taped the new up down line to the end and pulled it thru. Mine broke where the metal clip that holds the bungy to the down line attaches, when it was installed originally they accidentally nicked the line when they crimped it, making a weak spot. When I re-did it instead of crimping into the line with the metal clip, I put a small knot in the line at the right spot so the metal clip and bungy now pull against the knot. Seems stronger than before. Keep in mind mine is a TI and the line is much longer than yours with several pulleys in there because it has to come out in two locations (basically a double PITA). Mine is a 2012 TI, I think they used the good spectra in the way back where it exits to the rudder, but used some black cord (not as strong) for the actual up/down line (attached to the handles), If I had been smarter I think I would try to replace the black cord with the more expensive (stronger) spectra line, next time I will. I love that polyethylene line (spectra), and use it wherever I can, with the only down side being you can't tie knots to hold it (it slips thru most any knot except cinch knots, but boy is it strong and it seems to resist chafing really well, someone on here said the stuff Hobie uses is 1000 lb test ( the rudder lines and the up/down lines coming out the back of the boat) , I have no idea if that is true or accurate (don't care either), I just know it's really strong stuff, and holds up to abuse really well.
Hope this helps
FE

Managed to get this sorted after a few failed attempts without removing the cleat. In the end, instead of tying the mono around the cord using an FG styled knot i lashed the mono to the cord with 4lb braid covering the frayed bits that kept developing at the end of the cord.