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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2017 10:52 am 
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Joined: Tue May 02, 2017 10:40 am
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I tried to fit the Mirage 180 drive from my 2017 Outfitter into my 2003 Outback and it simply doesn't fit. I removed the plastic pegs but I the drive is still almost 1/4 inch too wide. I need to figure out how to get 1/8 of an inch on either side to make it fit. I'm considering sanding to protruding bit of the drive and/or the kayak well. Another possibility is to soften the kayak well with heat and jamming the drive in while still hot. I don't really like either option.

Do any of you have a better idea or have solved the same issue?

Bill


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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2017 12:56 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
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Location: Oceanside, California
Likely the fairing is hanging up on the well. Would require trimming the fairing to fit the older boat.

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Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
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Hobie Cat USA
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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2017 1:54 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
Posts: 3017
Location: Escondido
The fairing is a non-essential part of the Drive -- just there to prevent excessive water sloshing in the boat. Feel free to trim away; a file is a lot faster than sandpaper. Once you get it narrow enough, you may find the Drive is also a tad long. I think that's because the older boats shrink slightly over time. If so, you can also feel free to file the ends as well. In any event, I don't recommend messing with the drivewell itself. 8)


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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2017 4:48 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 11, 2016 1:27 am
Posts: 442
I had issues trying to fit a current drive plug in an early model adventure. I think older models often have slightly narrower holes, whether by design or shrinkage. Wouldn't advise forcing anything in as it is only going to increase stress and potential for drivewell cracking.

Be aware also that new bigger blades may cause extra stress on older models which where not designed to withstand.


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PostPosted: Wed May 03, 2017 9:57 am 
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Well, it fits now! I used a Dremel to shave non-essential bits off the drive and managed to get it fully seated. Unfortunately, the barrel for the forward fin was wedged in too tight to rotate. The barrel didn't look like something that should be messed with, so I ended up shaving a 1 1/2 inch x 1/8 inch area off on both sides of the well in order for the front fin to do its thing unencumbered. I'm a little concerned about drive well integrity given my trimming, the age of the Outback, and the aforementioned additional power of the newer drives. Perhaps it would be wise bolster the drive from the inside ...that and fill the inside with closed cell foam for secondary floatation. Suggestions on the former would be appreciated. Adhering a piece of aluminum or stainless would probably do the trick but I'm not sure what adhesive to use. I have some marine-grade construction adhesive that cures very hard but haven't yet tested if it forms a strong bond to plastics.


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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2017 7:30 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
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Location: Escondido
3M Scotchweld DP 8010 (for bonding PE), or DP 8010 NS for more structural support. Use the search feature here and you'll learn how its been used on Hobies. It's not cheap or easy to use, but will get the job done. After checking it out, if you have any more questions, don't hesitate to ask. 8)


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