Yakass' video is excellent and you can use it with the older Drives as well -- just ignore the roller bearing parts since you won't have them on the pre-GT Drives. Notice he serviced all three shafts -- you should do the same.
Here are a few additional tips:
1. Examine your shafts for wear. If re-using the originals, you can reverse them to expose a fresh, unworn side, especially if replacing with new parts.
2. Older sprocket shafts are not marked, unlike the one shown in the video. Use a Sharpie to draw a vertical line so you will know where the flat spot is when locking it in with the Allenhead screw.
3. Don't over tighten the Allenhead lock screws or you can crack the spine. Tighten them snug only and use Locktite Blue to keep them from backing out later.
4. When reinstalling the chain cables, pre mark (Sharpie) the center link. This is the one that will fit over the master cog. Press this one first and make sure it is fully seated before proceeding further. Then the rest of the links will (almost) fall into place. It's a tight fit!
5. When doing your final cable adjustments, go from front to back -- idler first, then front then rear. Otherwise one affects the others and you have to do it over again. The "just right" tension is about 1/8" squeeze between the fingers at midpoint for the idler and front cable, about 3/16 for the rear cable. Too tight accelerates wear by causing unnecessary friction; too loose and you get cable slack which is mostly harmless but inefficient .
It's a lot easier after the first time!
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