Broken Idler Cable

Greetings Again Outback Fans / or detractors,

Kepnutz -the answer to this question might be in your library of knowledge.

Intro - Last evening on a return trip of about 7 miles following a 25 mile tour, I was pedaling along at 4.5 mph, minding my own business, watching a great sunset . . . when suddenly a distinctive "Snap" brought my attention to the drive well. Finding no damage, I continued for another mile with little consequense. Then, upon further inspection, I noticed the idler cable had "seemed" to stretch. So I tightened the nut, according to Roadrunner's succinct direction, but that did nothing but cause the plastic covering to shrink. The cable barely clung to the pulley groove. I slowed my return and made it home before dark.

Finally, I looked over the cable tonight and found the plastic cover was the only thing between the pulley and me, miles from home in the dark. (I do carry appropriate lights, tho) That WAS the cable I heard Snap!

At last . . . . question: If I somehow get my hands on a replacement cable (from dealer or Hobie drop-ship . . . this should come under the 2 year warranty, right?), how do I string and attach the sucker to the drum?! I assume the threaded bolt end arrives separate and the loose cable end will feed into the swedge on the bolt; then with crimping tool in hand, the cable is secured. Or not.

Any one hear tell of another snapped idler cable?

I'm learning I'm good at breaking stuff on my "fata Morgana" Drive.


Aside to Roadrunner on "drive-hull slap":

I'm on a slow learning curve with this M-Drive. After paying better attention to what I am doing, I discovered when I apply heavy action to my Turbo fins, the result is increased back-and-forth rocking of the spine in the drive well; which in turn causes added stress on the cam lock knob bolts. These loosen and slowly back out of the shell. Now I keep the appropriate allen wrench handy. . . an easy fix at the time, but if this continues, I forsee the day when I strip a bolt completely. Then I'm down to some loc-tite product . . . or I'm screwed!

"Problem" solved . . . for now.

Thanks for your previous, helpful suggestions on that subject.


I have a kayak event on a local estuary (minus the tide) this coming weekend, of course. Hope to be repaired by then. I'm sure to have the only Hobie (esp. w/ M-Drive) on the water in N MN. . . . . . if I can get there.


Thanks again for your assist, folks from "down under" 40 N,

- Mett
47 N 92 W

Hey ya going Mett
Sorry to hear about your cable snappage troubles. I have not had any problems with ours at all so far. I think Aloha Dan or RoadRunner and Apalach might have more answers to those questions as well as some hands on experience. I would also check the Hobie support link for a mirage drive parts sheet and see if that helps. Here is the link to that page
http://www.hobiecat.com/support/index.html
Im still at the... "If it aint broke dont fix it".... stage when it comes to the cables. Wish I had more help to offer hope this helps and leave a msg for Matt Miller as well and you should get all the answers you need for replacing the cable
...kepnutz

Mett,

The cable is a piece of cake. There are 2 different lengths, so make sure your dealer gets the correct one. It comes complete and ready to install. Here's how it looks next to an existing set-up:



You just insert in through one drum, and into the other. Lay it over the pulley before you tighten.

Fore and aft rocking on your drive is normal, but side to side rocking is not good. Make sure you're hand-tightening the cam locks enough. If the threads are backing out, Hobie has a helicoil kit you that may be available at no charge (ask your dealer to inquire) or you can just glue the bolts in. If so, try to find something that works with poly.

Thanks kepnutz for the reply.

Great pix Roadrunner!

As I stated above, this is a "slow boat" learning curve I'm onto here.

I had removed the nut from the cable end, but not the bolt end of the cable. Not too bright again there mettmann! I assumed the swedge wouldn't fit through the drum hole. Duhhhh! Always have to make things more difficult than designed . . . . Obviously, mechanics is not my forte.

As for the rocking spine, THAT was the annoying sound we discussed in another thread. I've pushed the pedals long and hard enough to cause excessive fore and aft spine rock, which in turn put added stress on the cam locks; and the bolts begin to retract. Loose cams - - - the spine sloppily slaps back and forth in the drive well. Not a good thing - for man nor poly-boat.

Just need a more attentive pilot.

Thanks again for the assists,

- Mett
47 N 92 W