HELP! stripped rear cross bar bolt

I am taking apart my 1983 Hobie 18 and I am one bolt away and the the hex drive head is stripped.

All the others came out fairly easily considering this boat has been sailing in salt water. To be clear, the threads are not what is stripped, it's the head.

A previous owner butchered it with the wrong tool. I can tighten the bolt but I can't loosen in. It just slips.

Here is the issue - it is up under a flange so I can't get a wrench or vise grip around it. Well. I can get a vie grip around it but I cant turn it because the gap it too narrow. I can't even cut back the hull material to get to the bolt because, even if I did, the bolt is still inside a metal bracket.

Anyone out there work on these old boats and have the same issue?

Any creative ideas welcome!

thanks everyone

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BrooklynSailor
Brooklyn, NY

Try a metric hex socket that may be slightly larger than the SAE
size that stripped or a torx bit. Tap in with hammer and go from there.
JT

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Enjoy every sandwich- Zevon

How about a large diameter easy-out right in the hex head? That would be my first attempt.

Next would probably be a dremmel tool to cut off the head of the bolt. And then a pair of vice grips to remove the stump from the insert.

Remember to re-install all the bolts with anti-seize on the threads.

sm

I feel your pain. That is one of the ugliest of situations you can run into on one of these boats.

Let me throw out a couple of possible solutions.

One thought might be that if you have access to a mig or tig welder, or maybe even an arc welder, put the wrench into the bolt and just give it a "tack" on each side I'd do each side instead of only one, so that it won't be so likely to wobble and break the weld.

Remember, just a couple of "tacks" as you don't want to build heat and damage the getcoat and fiberglass that surround the area.

Another thought would be go down to the Ace Hardware store and buy some J B Weld. Mix up a very small amount, put it into the hole in the head of the bolt, and then insert the tool and LEAVE it there to become one with the bolt. Be sure that you clean up any excess that pushes out as you insert the tool then let it set up for 24 hour period and then spin the bolt out. This is a procedure I have used in the past with a fair degree of success.

BOTH suggestions will possibly cost you a new tool, but the tool will be much less expensive than almost any other option I can think of.

The JB Weld solution will take a day of time while it cures, and the tack welding idea will possibly create some burn marks on the gel coat.

Maybe someone else like Jeremy or Brad or Dog will have a better solution to your problem.

I would avoid compromising the integrity of the surrounding fiberglass by cutting of any sort at all costs. That is an area that bears a fair degree of stress as you are sailing the boat, and once you have damaged it, will forevermore be a weak point subject to catastrophic failure.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Stephen

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If the grass is greener on the other side of the fence, maybe it is time to water your own lawn.

Try a #4 Grabit they work wonders. Or if you gan get a angle grinder in cut two slots in the head and use a big screwdriver.

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Rich Vilvens
F-18 5150
[email protected]
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/f-185150sailing/

These are great ideas, guys. I really appreciate the help. For many years I have struggled with the the dreaded "stripped bolt head" dilemma and I have never thought of these solutions!

Right now, I am considering the JB weld solution as she is sitting out on a beach and I don't have access to power. So, the welder and grinder solutions are out (for now). I don't have access to a weld kit - this is probably a good thing. I think I would be dangerous!

I'm taking her apart and will put her on my roof rack in pieces and take her to my apt where I happen to have a back yard. It should be a challenge to get her through the apartment

thanks again, everyone and if anyone else want to throw out ideas, please do.

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BrooklynSailor
Brooklyn, NY

my #2 son, and his fiance, used to live in Brooklyn, you gotta post pictures of a Hobie 18 being loaded off in the streets of Brooklyn...that's epic!

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Sheet In...Max Out
www.fleet297.org
sailflatlands at gmail dot com

HA! I'll be sure to do that! I have to get the trailer registered. I keep her on the beach at a marina nearby.

I wish I had pictures of me capsized under the Statue of liberty last summer, now that was an experience! I took my eye off the ball to wave and look up (Amazing) as I sailed under the and as soon as I got between the statue and Ellis Island I got hit by a wind gust comming throught the gap and bam! (or should I said "Ba-da-bing!" I went right over.

I have a camera a can bring along this season, I'll definately get some.

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BrooklynSailor
Brooklyn, NY

It's probably stripped because it is corroded into the nut inside of the crossbar. Try the other solutions mentioned above first, but...
I used a 4" angle grinder to get one out like that one time. I ground the head right off the bolt. It wasn't pretty. Let the bolt cool down between grindings so you don't melt/ burn the fiberglass. Once you get the crossbar off you can heat up the bolt with a torch to break the corrosion and grab the nub with a pair of vice grips. You don't want to apply too much force, you can spin the nut right off of the inner cross bar.

Hope that helps!
Good Luck!
J

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Sail Revolution
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Thanks everyone for all your help. I successfully got the bolt out and it was not fused. A tad corroded but not ruined. I used inspected the bolts that came out easily and noticed that the hex tool was not getting fully into the head. So, on the one that was stripped, I WHACKED the tool hard with a hammer to get it set deeply. It worked!

So, someone suggested that I put anti corroding treatment on when I put them back in. Does anyone have a name brand?

I have more questions that I will post under a different thread - like, when painting the hulls, is it standard to paint the decks as well?

Thanks again!

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BrooklynSailor
Brooklyn, NY

You want to put anti-seize on the bolts when you reinstall them. It's a paste (usually silver or bronze color) that lubricates the threads and prevents them from galling and seizing. I believe there are specific marine grade versions available, but I just use the stuff they sell at the auto shop.

sm

anti-seize compound by Permatex

sm is correct...although permatex makes a specific marine grade, the permatex you'll find at any auto parts store will work

ps waiting for those photos ps

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Sheet In...Max Out
www.fleet297.org
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