H18 righting system consensus

Do you have speaker phone?

in the future put a line on the port lid and clip it tp your dry bag. then you can't loose the ld or the bag. the proceding was a public service from the "i can't believe i just did that file".

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Rich Vilvens
F-18 5150
[email protected]
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/f-185150sailing/

Alright, I think I can solve my phone problem. Tipping the boat on it's side and tilting it forward should do the trick. After all, that's how it got back there.

Now let's talk righting technique. I gather you should let the wind move the boat until the wind is coming at it kinda between the bow and the mast top, ~45 degrees to each. Then with the rope over the top hull I thought you were supposed to stand near the rear xbar and lean back. Is that too far back? Should I be closer to the front xbar? also I uncleated both sails but left the jib unfurled. I figured the wind catching these would help me.

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The ox is slow but the earth is patient

when pulling it back on the 18 you should be right about the dagger maybe a little forward. hulls flat front to back.

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Rich Vilvens
F-18 5150
[email protected]
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/f-185150sailing/

Rich is correct, you need to be in front of the dagger board. I usually stand at the front cross bar but after reading Rich's suggestion next time (and there will be a next time) I am going to try moving back closer to the dagger. Be aware, that in the event of a full turtle (boat completly upside down) you should start at the back corner of the boat until it is on its side and then move forward.

I really liked the shop vac idea for retrieving the phone. Thats good thinking.

Collin

I just put a bob on the top to prevent the full turtle.

A vacuum would work if it were in a bag but it's a hard box about 3x5x6. I think tipping it is the trick.

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The ox is slow but the earth is patient

Well just be sure to call us before you break out the chain saw....oh wait, you don't your phone. Hey I have another thought. How about a stick with a clob of jb weld or some other epoxy on the end, stick it to the box, wait for it to set, and retrieve.

I always furl the jib, with the thought that as the boat starts to come up the wind can more easily flow between the surface of the water and the mast, helping to lift the sail and the mast free of the water.
I think that it is very important to release the main cleat AND the traveler before begining to attempt to right the boat. That allows the sail to "fall free" as the boat starts to come up and prevents you from trying to lift a sail full of water. Another real benefit from having everything uncleated is the boat is much less likely to take off sailing on its own before you have a chance to climb aboard. The only thing worse than trolling along behind your boat as it tries to sail off without you is actually watching it sail off without you.

Stephen

I'm glad someone said it. The most important thing about righting your boat is making sure you have hold off it when it hits the water on its legs again. Release all sheet lines, jib, main and traveler. No need to furl the jib. I like the bungee system that goes around the outside off the boat, white and blue. It also serves as a chicken line for crew while trapping out. Get out on your righting line, as captain I take the first lean on the line. I get out to about 45 degrees to the water, with the line wrapped around one hand and the other locked above it. And I've found the simpleist thing and fastest thing is to have my crew simply lean back onto me. If we still need more leverage the crew can back up me and lean back over my head. It never fails for me. As the boat is coming over grab the dolphin striker or the lacing of the tramp. In strong wind the boat may try to cartwheel and by holding onto it you must be pulled out of the water in order for it to continue rolling. Add the waves in the ocean and timing becomes a factor, if you pull as the mast is lifted in a wave it takes much less to get her back upright. I love the ocean, what a wonderful playground.
Later

Got a good one for you.I just attatched a carbon fiber wakeboarding handle to 3ft of spectre/deema line and attached to dolphin striker.The line is so small and 0 stretch it all tucks in tramp pocket nicely and boy is it easy to hold on with 4 hands and as boat comes back over in a big blow one of you can put a foot in handle for more leverage. weighs 18 oz.
shawn
82 H18 #8211
Div3

I way 170# and if the seas are not narly, I can right my h18 with Rick White's righting pole. It makes it easier that I have a Hobie Bob on the masthead. I did have my own homemade pole (a windsurfing mast that I salvaged), but I cracked it when I was doing some repair work on the hulls and stepped on it. Trying to find a replacement mast was difficult, so we just bought the righting pole and machined a fitting for the dolphin striker to avoid drilling into the crossbar.

Carry an extra righting line on board, just in case. You can flip it over the upper hull and it's really not in the way if you stow it directly; I have it weaved through the center lacings.

Wyatt

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Sails off Angola, NY, Lake Erie.

I’ve sailed my HC-18 magnum for 1-1/2 season without flipping it. This past weekend took it out with my son and deliberately knocked down to practice righting an 18. I’ve righted 14’s and 16’s but never an 18. All the advice here helped a lot. I have a Hawaiian righting system under the tramp. Combined skipper & crew weight is about 340. Wind about 10mph. After turn the boat 45 degrees into the wind with the wind helping on the tramp the boat came right over.

My question: Is it advisable to stand on the extended dagger-board to help right the boat? (Like you would on a mono-hull). I’m a little cautious about damaging the dagger-boards or trunk.

My advice to anyone sailing a 18 that has not flipped. Take the time to practice it when you can, and can have help if needed. I certainly feel much better knowing that I’ve successfully righted this boat.

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John Latimer
'79 Hobie18 - Magnum
Sail#4854

be careful standing on the boards,I have tried that and about the time i was leaning back hard with the righting rope in my hand the board shot out of the
trunk and did my shin in.You really want to be in front of them anyway.
shawn
82 h18 #8211
div 3

I have had the big bag and pulley system from Murry and sail a H18M solo (210 lbs) and you need to take time to get the bag as full as possible for it to be effective in righting the boat with little wind (practiced it a few times). Store the righting bag, pulley and line in a zippered bag on the front of trap where I can reach it from the hull. Currently getting ready to install the Power Righting system because I want something easier, quicker and more effective for myself. BTW, will probably sell the the big Murry bag, pulley and line if you are interested.

Lots of useful information in this thread. I dumped my boat yesterday while sailing solo and couldn't manage to right it with the simple dolphin striker line (I go 5-10 225#). Thankfully a passing motorboat pulled me up. I was standing on the daggerboard but it sounds like I need to be further forward next time. I'm definitely planning on buying the largest righting bag I can find and I also like the idea of the water ski handle. A humbling experience to say the least. One thing I didn't anticipate is how slippery the hulls and boards are when you're standing on them barefooted trying to right the boat! I guess I should consider adding some booties to the shopping cart as well (or wear sneakers).