mast rake

First time poster here. Used to race a 16 a couple of decades ago, but with work and marriage and family............

I'm setting up my 1981 Hobie 18 (not an SX) and am struggling with finding a starting point for mast rake. I've searched all the past posts and have found good general info regarding the forestay/shrouds and holes/adjusters. Problem is, I'm not sure my forestay or shrouds are stock length: they don't seem to match the measurements I got from Hobie.

Which leads me to my real question. Does anyone have a way checking the position of the mast (fore and aft) that is not related to holes visible in adjusters? Something like, "add a short piece of line to the main halyard and stretch it up to the front bow. Note the point at which it touches the bow tang, then stretch it back to top of rear rudder casting and it should be "x" number of inches longer." I'm just looking for a starting point reference. I've got the forestay down all the way into the adjuster, and with the shrouds tight, the mast looks to my untrained eyes to be still raked back quite a bit.

Any help would be appreciated. Heading up to a regatta this weekend and if I can get the mast close before it hits the water it will allow more time on the water for fine tuning. I don't remember having unusual weather or lee helm last time I sailed her (over 2 years ago) but I also just found out I have been rigging it wrong by tensioning the rig via the jib halyard like on my old 16.

Anyway, thanks for the help,

Mike Bennett
1981 hobie 18
Madera, CA

Hey Mike ,Like you I had 16's forever and just got an 82 h18 in oct. last year.I know that mast rake on the 18 is not an issue like the 16 is.I run mine
with four holes showing through the top of the furler and five down on the chainplates in heavy wind and four down on chainplates in light air.This is about right according to petersons sailing guide and it works well for me.If you rake the mast too far back on the 18 it really plays havoc with the jib slot and loads the helm up.Thats my experience anyway ,hope it helps.Maybe we will run into each other at woodward res. or at huntington lake.If you can trailer we are having a regatta at whiskeytown lake first weekend in sept.whiskeytownsailing.org.
Shawn
82 h18#8211
Div.3

Mike,

I add a short piece of line to one of the trapeze wires, take it forward and while pulling it taunt, I use my thumb to "mark" the line where it touches the pin that holds the bridle to the bow tang.

Then, while holding the "mark" I made I walk it back and once again, while pulling it taunt, I touch it to the outer curve of the deck where it rolles over to the lip.

My rule of thumb is it should be about 4 to 6 inches behind the back of the rear crossbar.

All things are relative, and with lighter crew weight, and heavier wind, I sometimes rake it further back than that, but that is a good ballpark setting that should allow you to be comptetive in all but extreme conditions. If nothing else, it is a good "starting point.

Everything in life is a compromise, pick your poison if you want to rake it further forward or further aft

Raking it further forward will reduce your pointing ability, but give you superior performance downwind.

Raking it further back will improve your pointing ability but reduce your downwind performance.

_________________
If the grass is greener on the other side of the fence, maybe it is time to water your own lawn.

MUST5429

Thank you very much, that is exactly what I was looking for!

mike bennett
madera, ca

Hmmmmm, very interesting. Went out to check the boat and found the measurement in the rear to be about 1 inch in front of the rear crossmember instead of 4-6 inches behind it. That's with the forestay as low as it can be in the adjuster. Looks like the forestay needs to come up a couple of holes, but to get the shrouds tight (with the current forestay position) they are already in the lowest hole in their adjusters. Looks like I may need shorter shrouds. My existing shrouds measure 2 inches longer than stock Hobie 18 shrouds. Hmmm, starting to make sense. New shorter shrouds on the way.

Thanks again,

mike bennett
madera, ca

I'm new to hobies, in fact I just bought one. How tight are the shroud lines supposed to be? Is there a trick to getting them tighter? I have one person push on the mast while i hook the forestay as low as i can get it and the shroud lines still have some slack.

TIA

You are tensioning in reverse. Attach your forestay and tension the shrouds by either hanging on the trap wire or tensioning the boom. I run my rig quite tight and tension with the boom. Also, always remember to remove the step pin before tensioning or it can be quite a bear to remove. Too much forward rake will limit pointing ability and make the boat want to pitchpole. Too much rear rake and the rudder will get very heavy and hard to control. Some rear rake is preferred but no where near what the 16 racers like.

Mast Rake guidelines from the Phil Berman Hobie 18 Performance Manual: tension the shrouds… then measure up from the base of the mast for feet and mark the mast. Measure the distance from the center of either one of the bridle tang pins on the bows up to the 4 ft mark (I measure both) . The distance should be between 105 to 107 inches.

Distance should be 106-3/4â€

_________________
John Latimer
'79 Hobie18 - Magnum
Sail#4854

Hey Brandon,
I usually leave my port shroud 3 holes loose and starboard 2 holes up just so my girlfriend can pin the bridles to the bows easier.Once I get my boat off the trailer and get the main sail up with the traveller assm. all hooked up,I pull the traveller to port side all the way over and sheet in the main tight.That takes all pressure off the shroud and you can unpin it and move shroud down the chainplate to the desired hole.If I am single handing in light to med wind I will leave my rig a hole on the loose side,if it's really blow'n then I drop it to the tight side.Repeat the same thing with the traveller slid the other way to the starboard end of the track.While you have your main sheeted in tight pay attention to wind shifts and make sure you are pointed dead into the wind.You can also check your jib luff tension at this time as full tension on main sail puts way more tension on your jib halyard tension.If you tighten down 3 and two holes you will have to reverse the process to dis mast the boat but if you leave it med. to loose you can get away with pulling the bow flange pins without loosening it again but you will have to move them up to setup again.(assuming you trailer your boat)
Shawn
82 H18 #8211
Div.3

Thanks for the input people. I'll try it out later today!