Riviets for tramp channel & righting line length?

What length rivets do I need to reinstall the aluminum tramp channel to the hulls? I have 1/2" long rivets that are to short but I can only find 5/8" length, will this be long enough?

Is there a standard length for the righting line on an 18? My line will attach to holes drilled in the transom deck lip and then the slack is taken up under the front crossbar using some blocks and shock cord. I'd really like to avoid pulling my boat off the trailer to figure this out. Thanks

I was going to recommend that you check the Hobie catalog illustrated parts section for the spec on the proper rivet length for the trampoline track, but I don't see it listed. What I would do would be to drill out one of the rivets. Then take a nail and put it in the hole until it's flush with the bottom of the hole and mark it. Measure the length of your mark and add about 3/16" to get the length for the rivet. If you want to save a few bucks, order from McMaster Carr, they have a good selection of stainless pop rivets. Also don't forget that there is a stainless washer that goes on the bottom end of the rivet (under the deck lip). Without this washer, the rivets are likely to pull out.

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Call Jay at Backyard Boats. (703) 491-3188. He knows. (and will send them to you).

Thanks, I got some from Mcmaster but they didn't have any coutersunk head rivets with a long enough length... I'll call backyard boats.

The tramp rail doesn't use countersunk rivets, it uses domed head rivets.

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Careful, guys. As SRM said... There are wavy washers underneath the lip that the rivets pop into. Without those, the rivets will pull right out and make a big hole.

Definitely get the correct bits. Talk to a pro.

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Im using hardware store 3/16" flat stainless washers. Im hoping the rivet will conform to the underside of the lip... otherwise Ill pre-bend them using some half sections of small pipe.

The countersunk rivets are in the jib block track... I made my own countersunk rivets using 1/4" ID pipe, center punch and a hammer. They seat perfectly in the jib track and since thier not hardened so you dont have to worry about cracking the head when forming it...

I recommend pre-bending the washers.

The best way to do this is to die form them to the correct radius. I use a slightly larger washer than Hobie supplies (see the used one on the left) to help spread the load out. Also check your hull lip hole locations...sometimes these need to be punched slightly offset so the hole in the washer nests up nice to the rivet shank coming through the hull lip. Otherwise you can inadverdantly be placing side loads onto the hull lip, which will result in loose rivets and a loose tramp track again soon.