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PostPosted: Wed Oct 02, 2024 9:42 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Wed Jul 17, 2024 11:59 am
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Don't see much on this topic, or didn't find it. Does anyone have any advise to remove the screw?
Thank you!


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 04, 2024 9:24 am 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
Posts: 4250
Location: Jersey Shore
I would start by trying to get it out using a manual impact driver. These can work quite well and reduce the possibility of stripping out the screw head.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_driver

sm


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 04, 2024 10:28 am 
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Sorry I neglected to mention the wd 40 and 3 days of impact driver hammering prior to posting the original post. I have also failed to remove the boom cleat screws with the impact driver. I also tried a vice, small torch and vice grips on the screw. I only managed to snap the screw. I was nervous about applying too much heat and it's possible I didn't apply enough. Not sure.

I spoke to a dealer about the bearing screw, they haven't done it but suggested cutting off the bearing, then torching the screw and turn it with vice grips but that reminds me of the cleat incident above and the end of my season. If that is the only way can anyone describe how much torch heat is appropriate, so I don't hurt anything.
Does the screw thread into the center post of the dolphin striker? Is that where the electrolysis is?

Thanks!!


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2025 12:43 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2018 4:06 pm
Posts: 126
Location: Sydney, Australia
Hi Sand Lubber, the screw for the mast bearing is actually a bolt, not a screw. The stainless steel dolphin striker post (the vertical post) comes up through the beam and up through the middle of the casting on the top of the beam and it protrudes (just) through the top of the casting. The post has a thread tapped into it and the bolt is screwed into that. The bolt would have originally be dipped in LocTite so it doesn't come undone. It will be the LocTite that is making the bolt difficult to remove. It is not electrolysis and therefore applying heat will not have any positive effect on the metals as they are both stainless. Heat will however help in deteriorating the LocTite. I would recommend using a heat gun as opposed to a blow torch as you want to melt the LocTite and not necessarily bake it to a crisp.

My suggestion is to break away the old black or white plastic mast bearing (half moon) until the bolt is exposed. There is often a large diameter delrin washer under the plastic mast bearing (half moon). This can often be saved and re-used.

Once the old mast bearing has been removed and the bolt is exposed, apply heat to melt the LocTite and grip the head of the bolt with Vice-Grips and try and remove the bolt without breaking the bolt head off.

Once the bolt is removed, clean out the thread in the dolphin striker post with (I think) a 1/4" UNC or 5/16" UNC tap ready for the new bolt.

The correct assembly sequence is:
- large OD delrin washer, add a smear of grease onto the top of the washer.
- mast bearing
- stainless washer
- stainless bolt with a dab of LocTite
Tighten the bolt but not too tight. The mast bearing should still be able to just rotate. The bolt can be 'firm' with just enough allowance for the mast bearing to spin, taking into account that it will marginally 'wear in' after a couple of sails and therefore give you some slack for easier rotation in a short period.

Let the LocTite dry overnight and avoid doing any "fiddling spins" until the LocTite has dried.

Every couple of months add a drop or two of 3in1 oil into the top of the mast bearing and that oil will settle into between the mast bearing and the delrin washer and you will have a nice free spinning mast bearing.

Enjoy!

_________________
John Forbes
Hobie 18 Reimagined
Sail # 490
Boat name: 18@heart
http://www.hobie18.fun
https://www.facebook.com/Hobie18catamaran/


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