The "old" and "new" H18 rudder castings are totally different designs. The castings are a "matched set" design: upper/lowwer . The only way you could mix the different design is Port/Starb, w/ a different set on either side ... But why would you want to do that??? . The "old' H18 rudder castings were used ONLY on the H18. The "new" H18 rudder castings were introduced at the same time as the H17 was and are the same castings. I do not know if the "tiller arm" extentions are the same, they maybe different lengths for the two boats. (Matt B, would you know the answer to this question?)
Now it has been MANY years since I had to do a conversion (and I have many grey hairs now) but I seem to remember that you had to "flip" the lowwer gudgeon over and "drill/tap" the two new upper holes for the lowwer gudgeon ...
(Stephen or Matt B am I remembering this correctly???)
You are in Florida ? ... Salt Water? ....
Use SS Rudder pins and do not forget the little white plastic BUSHINGS ... very important as it prevents the SS Rudder pin from wearing away the ALUM Rudder Casting. One part costs $15-20's .... the other +$150.00's ... (quess which one wears out!!!) I currently have TWO sets of rudder castings that the previous owners forgot about these $1.00 bushings and the castings are trash unless I can get the en-larged hole filled in and re-drilled or have some sort of "insert/bushing" pressed in.
Ol'Timer Trick: Place a 3/8" SS Washer on top of the upper gudgeon and between the rudder casting, this will act as a "bearing surface" and prevent the SS Gudgeon from wearing into/away at the rudder casting as gravity "pulls down" on the castings and rudder ... it also helps the plastic bushings to last longer.
Harry
_________________ HarryMurphey
H-18 mag/ #9458
Fleet 54 Div 11
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