Traveler problems

I'm having trouble with the mainsail traveler on my '96 Hobie. It's sticking on the track in the outer starboard and port positions. It's really tough to move the boom toward center, making it difficult to get enough speed upwind, which then makes tacking really difficult. I've used WD-40 on the track, but it's only moderately effective. Any ideas?

Stop using WD-40 as a lube. It attracts dirt making your problem worse and also wearing out the track and traveler. Use a dry lube like McLube.

Does the traveler stick along the whole track or just the outer ends?

One thing to keep in mind while tacking is the let the main sheet out about 6-10" as you come through the wind then sheet it back in as you start sailing again.

I'm assuming it's an H16. Check your track to see if it is dented. I don't know if '96's had an integrated track or not. Not sure what to do with the integrated track as it is pretty well protected.

Are any rollers missing from the traveler car?

I'm sure others will have more to say.

Godd luck

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Nick

Current Boat
In the market
Previous boats owned
'74 Pearson 30
'84 H16
'82 H18 Magnum
St. Louis, MO

I have not looked closely at the travelers on the '96 boats but I did spend a large part of this summer working on 16's and one recuriring problem we had was sand getting into the traveler track this causes the traveler to stick so badly that when i started working on them some would not work at all. we often used "white grease" which stays on the track much better than WD40 or something like that but does attract dirt and as time goes by the problem is compounded. if the grit that gets in the track is big enough it will cause the pins that make the traveler slide bend or break off completely in which case the traveler must be replaced by drilling out the two rivets on the starboard side of the track the old traveler can then be slid out of the track and the new one slid in. dont forget to give the track a good cleaning while you have the traveler out. Good luck. Sail fast and dont break anything.

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The pessimist complains about the wind, the optimist expects it to change, the realist adjusts the sails.

Check the rivits too, sometimes they get to sticking out a bit and hold things up.

good point about the rivets, also be sure to watch them closely when you re- rivet the track, i usually have to flatten the top of the rivets back out with a screw driver and hammer after i set them.[/quote]

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The pessimist complains about the wind, the optimist expects it to change, the realist adjusts the sails.

My grandpappy always told me that WD40 invited rust to the party. What do you guys think about using wax? I use a wax when I piece my fly rods together and enjoy how well it sheets water and still provides a slick surface when I need it.
As of yet, I havent used my travelors much so I never had to think about it. Now that I am in San Diego and playing in some swells I am going to be focusing on utilizing the sail trim better.

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"Being grown up isn't half as fun as growing up!" -- The Ataris

Get the silicone spray in the yellow bottle at Lowe's or Home Depot. It rocks.

I`m with the majority here - I would not use any lubrication on the Hobie that would hold grit to the part - especially an aluminum part. I like the silicon sprays because they are cheap and easy to apply. Another product which I`ve used in the past (for similar applications) is liquid Teflon lube. I get it at a bicycle shop. It squirts on as a liquid and drys quickly. I have found that it lubes better and, more importantly, lasts longer than silicon lube. However, I am out of the stuff and have not yet tried it on the Hobie - but I will.

As for WD40 - I dare say that I cannot think of any other product so mis-used and still so popular. I work in healthcare and I know several people who actually rub it into their arthritic joints daily - and swear by it!

As a lubricant, (it was not intended or designed as a lube) it truly sucks - as most of us know. But, do you think I can get my dear old Dad to stop using it as a lube - week after week (on the same damn sqeaky parts). I even bought him the proper spray lube (still unopened after 2 years). I have come to the conclusion that he must enjoy constantly re-lubing the same stuff over and over!

As a water displacement product (hence the WD) it works well - especially on those crackling stereo knobs and sound-board faders. It really is a good product for getting moisture and mild corrosion out of small areas - especially electronics.


Dave

Hmm, to make sure nothng in ur track is actually sticky--- i suggest pulling your traveller off, and washing it down, with some good ol elbow grease, and a water jet, to pull all those flecks of nasty stuff off, then use some good car-wax, or just wax, and do a PROPER job of it, as in buff, and rebuff it!:)

Then actually disassemble ur traveller, and properly lube ur wheels, axels, everything. I know this is a tedious job, but i actually do it on the club boats before a regatta, or on the spring tune-up for the cats.

It really helps my gybes and such when i know my traveller isnt gonna stick half way thru, and push me into a lovely capsize;)

A '96 H16 should have the integrated traveller track - no rivets.

(Integrated travellers were introduced in 1995 in the US.)

Does this happen when you roll the traveller car by hand? (mainsheet not attached)

Don't let the traveller car slam into the end of the track (actually hitting the corner casting) in a jibe. Tie a knot in the traveller line before the cleat to keep it from doing that.

Other than that, I can't think of what would be causing the problem - the integrated travellers are pretty bulletproof - I've still got the original one on my '98.

i like the idea of using car wax, that seems like it would hold less grit than the white grease i have been using.

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The pessimist complains about the wind, the optimist expects it to change, the realist adjusts the sails.