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PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 4:50 pm 
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Location: Hamden, CT
Heyall

I have a 1979 Hobie, and Am trying to add a bit here and there, want to race it sometime:

I may have the option to upgrade the crossbars (fore and aft), to an 89 frame, which I believe has upgraded track rails and such, but am not sure, can someone clarify to me any differences?, I also thought they were better suited to having Greater mast rake? I wouldn't know for sure. Clarification ?

I know this is gonna sound ridiculous, but i think it might be a good idea: Essentially rebuilidng the entire boat. I've got a new comptip (got for cheap) to install, rudders are good, hulls are old, and had soft spots etc. Would it be crazy to slowly just replace everthing with newer parts? (should cost less than buying an entire boat of the same year as teh parts being replaced)

thanks alL!

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 5:51 pm 
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The crossbars did not change to the integrated tracks until 1995, so '89 crossbars will get you nothing. There is no difference.

If you want to race, you are best advised to save your money for a new(er) - a much new(er) - boat.

Just like you can't fix stupid, you can't fix a heavy boat. Your boat is heavy - I don't even have to weigh it to know that. (The age and repaired soft spots are a dead give away.)

The things that affect boat speed the most (other than the nut at the end of the tiller) are sails and boat weight. Sails are expensive, and like I said, weight can't be fixed.

Now, if you said you had a pair of '85 redline hulls to put under your existing frame, we'd be having a different conversation.

Another thing to remember - just like a car and a house, do not fall in love with your boat. It will never, ever, love you back.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 6:46 pm 
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Thanks!

I"m thinking about upgrading to an 89', no soft spots, except it got some damage under a pilon. I can fix it, I think, with the injection method. Probably adding up to 10 pounds of weight to the 89'.

I could also opt to just buy the hulls, would that be worthwhile?

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 7:17 pm 
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I'd be careful with the '89 - I owned one and it was a complete dog - heavy. The boat weights did not get reliably close to minimum until the early 90's.

10 lbs is a lot (that's like a gallon of resin). You could be adding weight to an already heavy boat.

I suggest you wait until you you can afford something that's less than 15 years old.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 7:18 pm 
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thanks, i'll do that

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 10:55 pm 
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Location: Marietta, Georgia
Not to thread hi-jack or sound like an ass but.....

i completely understand this weight issue being the utmost important to race....*however*

i added 5 quarts of git rot to both my hulls to fix everything.....thats some good weight....aside from that, all my blocks are harken carbo (nelgiblie weight difference) and sails are being re-resin'd....

my crew weighs in at 200lbs...i weigh 180......we both need to shed some weight because ive got a kinda beer belly, and he has man-boobs...

IMOH, weight of the crew is more important then a 10lb hull difference between years.....

Now if you and your crew are already at the minimum race weight (i believe its 300lbs total?) then by all means, you want the lightest boat out there.....

but i'd focus more on loosing some weight yourself (as well as your crew) to get a good weight loss.....10lbs by the both of you is 20lbs saved!

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 3:32 am 
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You've got it backwards.

You want a light boat especially if you're crew heavy.

My point to him was, "Why spend the money if it's really not going to get you anything?"

His '79 boat is heavy - and by heavy, we're talking 30-40# over current minimum weight. An '89 boat is probably heavy - before he repairs the soft spots (I won't even go into why you should never buy a boat with soft spots). An '89 is not a significant "upgrade" from a '79. It's just 21 years old, not 31. The only things that changed on the boats in that time period were the rake-adjustable rudder castings, the style of the jib sheet cleats/travellers and the addition of the Comptip.

Minimum crew weight for racing is 285#. There are very few racing teams that are two adult guys. Usually it's guy/girl or guy/child.

Save your money, learn on the old boat (it's like running w/ ankle weights) and when the right boat (newer than a '95) comes along, you'll be ready.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 5:30 am 
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He said "man boobs", That always makes me chuckle...

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 6:00 am 
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What are these redline hulls you speak of?


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 7:00 am 
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Thanks for the advice

I've read, and discovered all the reasons not to get soft spot hulls. My 79 was full of them when I bought it (added about 3 quarts of resin to repair it all, took forever, looks great now tho!)...

I'll start looking for a 95 or newer..

Redline was a boat made in 198_ that was especially light and had red glue i believe

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 9:46 am 
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Location: Marietta, Georgia
redline hulls are ones with a red strip at the seam of the decklid and the sides.....its a red epoxy, aparently those are the lightest (correct if wrong mbounds)


also, i was saying (like in my case) i have a "heavy boat" (compared to new) and a "heavy crew". Since i cant shave off weight from the boat, i can tone the crew down and both of us lose some weight......i need to get down to 170lbs....thats a good 15lbs off the weight.....Yotam could loose 20lbs and he'd be awesome.....thats a savings of almost 40lbs off the rig!

To sum it up : if you are fit and in shape, get a lighter boat
If you're a tubby with love handels and man boobs, it doesnt matter which boat you have- LOSE WEIGHT! (my case) then after you do, sell the heavy boat, take out loans or rob a bank, and purchase a new hobie that will last 25 years! (just keep it in the garage)

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 10:43 am 
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Haha
I agrea

But our total weight on board is someunder 300. so ya, need new boat. I'll start saving!

Man boobs must be great for in super heavy wind Tho!

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