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 Post subject: Jib Cleat fasteners?
PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 11:53 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2010 3:46 pm
Posts: 2
Hi All - I have a 70's 16 with the really old jib car/cleat all in one. I bought the some newer equip. on ebay that included the trentec cars and swivel cleats, also, jib car outhaul blocks & lance cleats.

I have 2 questions.

1. Where, exactly do I mount the swivel cleat on the front crossbar. I can get an approximation by looking at some of the diagrams but are there exact measurements from the end of the jib car track? Also, exactly where in terms of fore & aft? So the front of plastic mounting block is even with the front of the jib car track?

2. It looks like the swivel cams are attached with screws not rivets?? I can't tell from the Hobie catalog. I can't imagine something with that much load being attached by screws. If rivets, what size? Looks like they would have to be bevel head to countersink them? Thanks for your help.


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 Post subject: Re: Jib Cleat fasteners?
PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 3:26 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 10, 2008 8:15 pm
Posts: 436
Location: Washington DC/Chesapeake Bay
I recently did this on my '79 H16 and pretty much followed the cheesy little drawing on the trentec jib traveler car package to locate the pieces...and a careful survey of boats at the local boat shop...and a conversation with one if their techs who is verrry knowledgeable. !!!!! :wink:

Only difference is I went with swivel cams vice the lance cleats for the travel car outhauler.

First, I recommend you start with the cheek block that you are going to mount on the corner castings. Make sure the rearward side of the sheave is positioned so that the line leaving it will move laterally behind the track unimpeded. The forward side of the sheave should be lined up such that the line attached to the traveler car comes right down the center line of the track.

With that block in place, I made sure the bulls-eye of the outhaul swivel cleat was lined up with the rearward side of the cheek block that I just ensured was positioned to allow free running of the outhaul line behind the track. There really isn't any other place it can go fore and aft relative to the cheek block, they have to be in line. The lateral position will be up to you but will probably be ~midway between the mast step and the end of the track.

For the jib line swivel cleats, laterally I lined up the center line on the swivel (bulls-eye) with the inboard end of the track. The position fore and aft will have to be made to miss the outhauler line coming from the cheek block to the outhauler swivel you just positioned. That way even when the car is all the way inboard on a close reach the swivel cleat will still be in position to work the jib sheet affectively.

Have I thoroughly confused you? Again, study that little drawing on the packaging of the trentec traveler cars and it shows it pretty much exactly as I installed it. Your lance cleats and swivel cams will not be on the same plane, if you are going with this config.

As for rivets vs. screws, go with rivets, definitely. I can't imagine having those pieces rely on two or three little threads and lasting long before pulling out. I don't remember the exact size of rivet I used, and I didn't use flat head rivets either, and it works. That is to say, I used a rivet on the one hole outside the swivel circle on the accessory mounting plate and used the provided screws to mount the swivel cams to the plates.

Also, one upgrade I'm going to do is replace the bulls-eyes on the outhauler swivel cam cleats with roller fairlead kits so that the line can travel to and from the cheek blocks with the least resistance possible. For now I'm going to stick with the bulls-eyes on the jib sheet swivel cam cleats due to the wider range of motion of the jib sheet.

Hope it helps - Good luck!

_________________
'81 H16

If it ain't a blowin', I ain't a goin'


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 Post subject: Re: Jib Cleat fasteners?
PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 4:41 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2009 5:48 pm
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Location: Boston Ma / Newport RI
Very thorough answer!

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Blair T

I love these calm moments before the storm, it reminds me of Beethoven...


'02 Hobie Tiger USA 1152


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 Post subject: Re: Jib Cleat fasteners?
PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 12:21 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2010 3:46 pm
Posts: 2
Yes, thorough indeed. I do appreciate the time people take on this forum to answer questions in a thoughtful and complete manner.

That said, I'm still a little confused. Is there something on the web akin to a blueprint diagram of a H16 that would show exact, scaled dimensions on where everything should be? I know its not a fighter jet but do want to be close to factory specs. I may not have been clear that the jib cars and outhaul components I bought were used, so arrived in a box with no fasteners or instructions. (oh Ebay.) Thanks again.


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 Post subject: Re: Jib Cleat fasteners?
PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 1:26 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2009 5:48 pm
Posts: 276
Location: Boston Ma / Newport RI
http://www.thebeachcats.com/albums2/bea ... _lines.jpg

this guys got some good hi-res deck layout pictures on thebeachcats.com

check out this one and some others too

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Blair T

I love these calm moments before the storm, it reminds me of Beethoven...


'02 Hobie Tiger USA 1152


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 Post subject: Re: Jib Cleat fasteners?
PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 2:28 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 10, 2008 8:15 pm
Posts: 436
Location: Washington DC/Chesapeake Bay
Hey Chicagojon, glad I could help. Since I just did this at the end of last summer the whole approach and experience is still fresh. I'm just recalling it, that's all. :lol:

I appreciate your desire to get it right the first time believe me, I worked hard on mine and took my time. I wasn't about to drill into my cross bar until I was absolutely sure.

I don't think you're going to find a factory spec for the layout you're after, Matt will have to help you with that if they're available. But you probably shouldn't count on it. I asked for a spec at the Hobie boat shop I mentioned and those guys just kind of raised their eyebrows and said, "Uhhh, no. Go check out the yard."

The pic Tallguy shared is a great one and can start to give you an idea of rough locations. But your config is different in that you're using the trentec cars and lance cleats. For what it's worth I was advised that the plastic of the trentec slides much easier than the metal of the swivel. And, as the hole in the car that the jib sheet moves through starts to wear, trentec advises you to simply flip it around and start wearing out the other hole. Taking trentec one step further, I plan to flip them and then switch sides with them, too, port and starboard, so the wear in each of the holes is evened out and extends their life a little more, like cross rotating your tires.

I will be at my boat this weekend and will take some careful snaps of my configuration (with a ruler!) which will illustrate the layout you're after, less the lance cleats. I'll also get one of the trentec drawing I referred to which will really help. I haven't had any luck posting pics to this forum yet because I don't have them already posted elsewhere on the internet to refer to, which is required. If you send me your email addy I'll be glad to forward them to you.

In the meantime check out the two jib traveler layouts on page 22 of the new Hobie catalog. One shows a swivel config and the other shows the lance cleat config. Pretty soon you've have all you need to piece your system together.

_________________
'81 H16

If it ain't a blowin', I ain't a goin'


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 Post subject: Re: Jib Cleat fasteners?
PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 9:06 am 
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Joined: Sat May 10, 2008 8:15 pm
Posts: 436
Location: Washington DC/Chesapeake Bay
Jman6631 wrote:
I recently did this on my '79 H16 and pretty much followed the cheesy little drawing on the trentec jib traveler car package to locate the pieces...and a careful survey of boats at the local boat shop...and a conversation with one if their techs who is verrry knowledgeable. !!!!! :wink:

Only difference is I went with swivel cams vice the lance cleats for the travel car outhauler.

First, I recommend you start with the cheek block that you are going to mount on the corner castings. Make sure the rearward side of the sheave is positioned so that the line leaving it will move laterally behind the track unimpeded. The forward side of the sheave should be lined up such that the line attached to the traveler car comes right down the center line of the track.

With that block in place, I made sure the bulls-eye of the outhaul swivel cleat was lined up with the rearward side of the cheek block that I just ensured was positioned to allow free running of the outhaul line behind the track. There really isn't any other place it can go fore and aft relative to the cheek block, they have to be in line. The lateral position will be up to you but will probably be ~midway between the mast step and the end of the track.

For the jib line swivel cleats, laterally I lined up the center line on the swivel (bulls-eye) with the inboard end of the track. The position fore and aft will have to be made to miss the outhauler line coming from the cheek block to the outhauler swivel you just positioned. That way even when the car is all the way inboard on a close reach the swivel cleat will still be in position to work the jib sheet affectively.

Have I thoroughly confused you? Again, study that little drawing on the packaging of the trentec traveler cars and it shows it pretty much exactly as I installed it. Your lance cleats and swivel cams will not be on the same plane, if you are going with this config.

As for rivets vs. screws, go with rivets, definitely. I can't imagine having those pieces rely on two or three little threads and lasting long before pulling out. I don't remember the exact size of rivet I used, and I didn't use flat head rivets either, and it works. That is to say, I used a rivet on the one hole outside the swivel circle on the accessory mounting plate and used the provided screws to mount the swivel cams to the plates.

Also, one upgrade I'm going to do is replace the bulls-eyes on the outhauler swivel cam cleats with roller fairlead kits so that the line can travel to and from the cheek blocks with the least resistance possible. For now I'm going to stick with the bulls-eyes on the jib sheet swivel cam cleats due to the wider range of motion of the jib sheet.

Hope it helps - Good luck!

_________________
'81 H16

If it ain't a blowin', I ain't a goin'


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