Mast step parts and procedure

I am pasting in an image of the parts which go aft of the mast step.



Can anyone draw or send images of where to put the pins in while stepping the mast? Does the pin stay in throughout the stepping process?

I stepped the mast up yesterday. But the ball wouldn't drop into the cup while the pin was in place. So I took the pin out, and remove the hardware from aft of the cup, and just used my hands to steady the mast into the cup. But I'm sure there was a better way.

Images/drawings definitely appreciated.

-Paris.

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Broward County, FL
1984 Hobie 16, Olympic Edition (kept in NY)

The shorter pin goes in the link to hold it to the base. That is the hole on the right in your diagram The two split rings keep it in place. Leave it there permanently. Tie a line to a hole in the longer pin and tie the other end to something so you don't lose it. There are two holes in the link, marked 14 and 16 respectively. Use the 16 hole for a Hobie 16 and pin the link to the hole in the bottom of the mast. That is the hole in the link on the left in the diagram. The pin stays in place until the mast is up and the forestay fastened, then removed for sailing. You might want to have someone push back on the base of the mast as you raise it to get the link to toggle. If it doesn't toggle back, it won't go down into the base. I used to give the mast a little extra "flip" as I raised it to get it to toggle but have been having trouble doing that lately.

In your diagram there appears to be a spring (bottom of the mast step link diagram). I don't believe I have that but it looks like a spring to hold the link down and clear of the mast after you pull out the pin.

Remember to put the pin in before releasing the forestay to lower the mast. Everyone forgets one time but seldom more than once. Sorry I can't put in sketches but it isn't very complicated.

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Howard

Re: the mast base not fitting into the step -

It's a matter of technique. When the mast is nearly up (at about a 60 degree angle), but before the mast base starts to hit the step either:

1) Have a helper standing near the front crossbar (NOT directly in front of the mast) give the bottom of mast a good shove aft while the person stepping the mast brings the mast vertical. This is similar to your "guiding it with your hands," but with the safety of the mast step link.

2) When you're stepping the mast yourself, when you reach that same point in the hoist (~60 degrees), briefly stop pushing forward and let the mast drop down into the step before continuing to raise the mast. Like I said, it's a matter of technique.

I'm plagued my a really finicky step pin too and I've got to find a solution that works. MBounds, do you have a clue why there is now an H16 specific hinge kit rather than the same "pins always seem to bend so easily" 2 hole system that's been around forever? Check out the $4 more pricey 16 only: http://www.murrays.com/mm5/merchant.mvc ... de=01-3021 Could anyone with this heavy duty(?) part kindly chime in?

For me, only the 14 hole works on my '81 and my crew is only an 80 lb enthusiast that just doesn't have the swift kick techniqe power needed. I don't like the danger aspect of body parts anywhere near the mast base at that critical moment either...but boy it would be nice to rig up some "enforcer" gadget. Lately, I've taken to the bounce technique but it's hit or miss too. It's seems silly to go on about this topic which should be utterly simple, but often is not. Please post if you have a snappy trick that might help.

JR

I don't have a snappy trick - other than what I do on mine - and 35+ years of stepping masts on Hobie 16s.

The mast step has had many subtle changes over the years. Small changes in geometry can have large undesirable effects.

Original 14s didn't even use a mast step link.

Original 16s used a hook on the mast base that engaged a rivet that went through the hole in the mast step that the current pin runs through. The hooks broke off and had a nasty habit of disengaging before the mast was stable = out of control mast.

The original mast step link looked like the one in the Murray's catalog - but it was a retrofit solution for the hook problem.

By the late 70s, the basic mast step link as we now know it was OEM equipment. But even it has gone through iterations of reinforcing and improvement since then.

I suggest using smaller pins (Phillips head screwdrivers work well) - that will give you some extra slop in the system to help it work. Don't forget to pull the pins while the mast is still being held forward (before it rakes back and is supported by the forestay).

If you are using the older step hinge I would throw it out. Without a person standing in front of crossbar to guide the mast base into the step you take a chance of breaking something. I broke my mast base out twice using this hinge before I realized the mast was overshooting the step base. Buy the newer design that limits forward mast travel. I don't think they sell the older one anymore so Murrays will send you the correct hinge (linked above).

Thanks for the input gentlemen.



Single hole heavy duty kit enroute. I'll revive this thread when it arrives (and hopefully works great!) just in case there might be someone else like me out there with an older or bent up step hinge that doesn't want to co-operate.

Cheers,

JR

I found a nice pin which attaches the mast to the base with a bonus feature: a Coupler Safety Pin, which is the gizmo normally used to make sure the trailer hitch stays in the down position... the kind with the heavy wire guard to hold it in place. It slips nicely into the mast base/mast linkage and when your done with it you can withdraw it, pull the mast link out of place, then re-insert it into the base using the heavy medal wire to hold it in place. This way you always know where it is and it is available to you should for some unforeseen reason you need it out on the water or someplace other than back at the ramp. It's corrosion resistant and costs about two bucks. It's worked well for me.

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Mims, FL

Greetings,

I promised to revive this thread with a review of Murrays H16 only "heavy duty" step hinge.

In a word: Superior

Comes with a pair of different sized pins that facilitate the extra play needed. I must have had and struggled with a vintage 2 hole design I robbed from my old 79 or maybe from the spare parts box I keep. Never knew the design had been improved and that the subtle design change would make such a difference. I even chatted with some Murrays tech folk and they are pretty proud of the better product. If your step hinge is finicky...go for it!

HMMMM, never had a problem with Hobie one myself.

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'88 Nationals Blue
Hobie Alter Signature Model
Sail #11

Hobie Mirage Classic

I looked at the Murray's heavy duty hinge and have a couple of questions. Does it really eliminate the "toggling" problem? Does it fit an '85 H-16? I read their literature that it must be completely removed for sailing. Is that correct or can it be left on the mast base while sailing?

I was always able to raise the mast alone with a hesitation part way up then a quick push which would cause the link to toggle down. I don't quite have the upper body strength to do that any more and need a better system. I am happy to still be sailing at my age.

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Howard

Yes (I own one)
Yes (both castings overall physical dimensions haven't changed)
Yes (remove it or bend it)

I always remove the Hobie link (as an insurance policy) once they get bent they're a booger to straighten out

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Sheet In...Max Out
www.fleet297.org
sailflatlands at gmail dot com

Thanks for the reply. I have always left the link on the mast base and have had to straighten it out or replace it several times. I plan to order that new link.

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Howard