Jib Traveler Track And Cars

Does anyone have pictures of the current jib traveler track and cars? I'm seriously thinking about a new boat and want to determine what parts are required to set up a barber haul system.

Thanks in advance.

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You don't need any additional parts on the new boats - the barber haulers are standard.

Finally! Thanks.

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They've been standard for about 16 years - ever since the integrated traveler track / Euro corner castings were introduced on the '95 boats.

Matt,

I noticed in the photo that you do not use eye straps on top of the cams on your jib car. Does this cause any problems with aligning your jib sheet back into the cams?

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Tim
84 H16
82 H16
87 H14T
Tortola Sails: 115222
Blue Prism Sails: 88863
Clearwater, FL

Not really. The only time the crew should have the jib cleated is going upwind and the angle is set for that. The crew should be "flying" the jib (trimming uncleated) off the wind since they make frequent adjustments.

If you're just fooling around, it's not that big of a deal to reach over and cleat it. You get used to it.

Matt,

I usually sail solo so I have enough to do with the main sheet and tiller and therefore keep my jib sheet and jib traveler line cleated (except for adjustments). Without the eye strap it would be hard to align the jib sheet above the cam cleats from the back of the boat.

Also when I tack, allowing the jib sheet to remain cleated and then backwinding the jib gives me more time to switch the tiller around, get a drink, arrange things on the tramp, etc.

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Tim
84 H16
82 H16
87 H14T
Tortola Sails: 115222
Blue Prism Sails: 88863
Clearwater, FL

I sail my 2008 H16 solo most times. At first, I did not like not having a fairlead to guide the jib sheet, but I became used to it very quickly. I now kind of snap the sheet while pulling it through the cleat.

Harken does sell a "extreme angle fairlead" for these cleats if think you need it.
http://www.harken.com/hardware/camfairlead.php

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1980 18 foot class A Unicorn catamaran
1977 Super Sunfish (sold)
1979 Hobie (sold)
1983 Hobie 16 Hawiian Sunset (sold)
1981 Hobie 16 Tequilla Sunrise (sold)
2008 Hobie 16 (sold)
2023 Hobie 16
Founding member of the "San Dimas Yacht Club"
John

Actually I have the Lo-profile jib blocks (part # 1075) which comes with the Ronstan fast track fairleads mounted on the cams (see pages 22 & 45 of the Fall 2011 Hobie catalog).

What is interesting is that the parts diagram on page 45 of the same catalog shows an eyestrap on the cross section for the Integrated Track Style cars port/starboard.

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Tim
84 H16
82 H16
87 H14T
Tortola Sails: 115222
Blue Prism Sails: 88863
Clearwater, FL

My last 16 was an early '90's model with the track pop riveted on. I didn't pay any attention to the newer models.

Based on your picture I'd make some modifications to reduce clutter on the tramp:

Route barber haul lines around front of mast

Add a fairlead to keep them below the top of the mast base

Reposition barberhaul cleats to work with rerouted lines

Depending on how jib cars react when barberhaul released, add a bungee to pull them back to close hauled trim position.

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While the barber hauler system has been standard since the mid-90's, the sheet car has changed a few times. The current version (shown in my photo) has been standard since 2004. They do not swivel - the cleat is fixed in that position.

Any cleat that swivels - like the prior version of the jib sheet car - must have an eyestrap so tension on the line aligns the cleat with the line.

Interesting, but I think it would introduce too much friction into the system. I'd like to hear how it turns out for you.

It's there, you just can't see it on the front of the crossbar.

I did the same thing on both of my previous 16s. Instead of the larger cam cleats I used lance cleats. No friction was noticed when either setting the cars to their reaching/outboard position or releasing and having the bungee pulling the cars back to the close hauled/center position.

In thinking about the setup, lance cleats might be better for the barber haul lines. They're smaller, and releasing them just requires pulling the line from under the cleat and releasing. The bungee does the rest letting the crew attend to other matters.

The cam cleats, obviously, will take a lot more strain but may reengage and stop the line from feeding if the crew, in the heat of racing, puts a knee or other body part on the line, pulling in down into the cleat.




It would be interesting to see if Hobie ever considered the lance cleats to reduce their COGS.

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