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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2016 6:49 pm 
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I hope that this one is easy--I am sure it has been covered--just couldn't find it.

I need to rotate the end cap on my H16 1984 Tiller Cross Bar since it is mounted "upside down" (go figure). The end cap/screw/bolt appears to be frozen. My flat head screw driver for the screw head was too small to get the right leverage. The end cap looks pretty happy in there (corroded?), and I think I will need some product or something to jar it loose.

My plan is to get a stronger screw driver (bigger head--not sure of the size of the standard screw top size). I will apply some WD40 or other product to try to loosen the end cap in the tube. It looks like I could get some leverage on the end cap but do not want to bend the cross bar. I figure I will mark the end cap so I can put it back at roughly the same spot since my rudders seem to work well...

1) Best size screw driver?
2) Best product to loosen the end cap?
3) Best way to knock it loose (fire wood? Screw driver through the end cap bolt hole?)?
4) Best way to ensure that putting it all back together leaves the rudders as is?
5) How tight should the tiller attachment kit (rubbber, cones, spring, bolts washers) need to be tightened down?

Advice welcome--I have usually found from reading the forums that what seems difficult can be rather simple with good advice and the right tools..


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2016 2:56 pm 
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You can usually get a set of vise grips to grab the screw head then just a short twist should break it free. The best to soak it in? There is a perfectly named product called "Break Free"... if the WD-40 does not work.

A flay head screw driver laid laterally in the slot might get you enough leverage too.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2016 7:18 am 
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Thank you. Helpful--will get the tools and product and make it happen. Appreciate the advice!


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2016 9:09 am 
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Another option might be to just flip the whole crossbar over. You would have to swap the tiller extension yoke to the other side of the crossbar, but those are generally easy to remove.

sm


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2016 7:43 pm 
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srm wrote:
Another option might be to just flip the whole crossbar over. You would have to swap the tiller extension yoke to the other side of the crossbar, but those are generally easy to remove.

The problem with this is that the tiller arm / tiller crossbar attachment axis and the tiller extension yoke axis don't line up. When the tiller crossbar is properly installed, the tiller extension yoke tilts forward. By flipping the crossbar over, it will tilt aft, which doesn't let the tiller extension lie flat on the trampoline and puts strain on the tiller connectors.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 2:23 am 
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MBounds wrote:
The problem with this is that the tiller arm / tiller crossbar attachment axis and the tiller extension yoke axis don't line up. When the tiller crossbar is properly installed, the tiller extension yoke tilts forward. By flipping the crossbar over, it will tilt aft, which doesn't let the tiller extension lie flat on the trampoline and puts strain on the tiller connectors.


I think if you flip the crossbar over top to bottom and then spin it 180 degrees about the axis of the yoke (i.e., the starboard end of the crossbar becomes the port end and vice versa) it would keep the yoke axis pointing forward.

The only issue would be that the adjustment screws for the crossbar end fittings would now be on the top of the bar instead of the bottom. But that is really just a cosmetic issue and probably better than trying to free up the frozen end fittings.

sm


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 10:16 am 
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Good point? Maybe the original issue is the hinge yoke was installed upside down? The didn't occur to me, but then both end fittings would have to be upside down?

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 1:54 pm 
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I like the way you all are thinking.

I will check to see if the other end cap is also frozen--if it is then rotating or flipping will only transfer the problem to the other side. Hard to describe in words but the end caps are diametrically opposite in their orientation.

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 2:53 pm 
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Lets also be sure you understand the proper orientation...

The end caps have a rounded convex side and the other is a cup / concave? The rounded side of the caps faces the rounded side of the tiller arm end cap. The tiller crossbar sits on top of the tiller arms.

The assembly manual shows these connections: http://static.hobiecat.com/digital_asse ... 201503.pdf

Page 16 standard tiller crossbar should be what we are talking about.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 7:45 pm 
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srm wrote:
I think if you flip the crossbar over top to bottom and then spin it 180 degrees about the axis of the yoke (i.e., the starboard end of the crossbar becomes the port end and vice versa) it would keep the yoke axis pointing forward.

That it would - important thing is to maintain that forward angle on the yoke.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 13, 2016 9:29 pm 
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I know its eight days later, and you may already have them out, but here is my tips, maybe someone can use this info in the future.

When you get those adjusting screws/bolts out, don't use them again. Replace them with SS Hex headed bolts, and when you reinstall the new ones, use some anti- sieze on the threads. They will be a lot easier to loosen if you have to, in the future, with a box end wrench, than using the original flat bladed screw type.

PB Blaster has worked well for me in the past as a penetrating oil to loosen frozen bolts, it works better if you put it on, then let it sit a bit, before attempting to break it loose.

Taking that crossbar off, wrapping it in a small rag, putting a piece of wood under it, between the slide bar on the vise and bar, then clamping it down just enough so it won't move, will make it easier to work with. Just do not tighten the vise to much or you will risk crushing the bar on to the adjuster fitting. If you have one, an impact driver is a good tool to use on this,or a stout screw driver with a hammer ( turn as you smack the end of the screw driver, make sure the wood spacer underneath supports the bar, while it is tightened down in the vise, so that when you smack it, it does not push down and is supported underneath where you are hitting it) as M.M. said "vise grips" works good too. but they are going to have to be real tight, on the flat headed bolt to get a good bite. If at all possible, someone help you. if they are frozen on there that bad. In my case, I just got mean with them, one, I snapped the head off, the other came out, but had to work it. ( I may have used a propane torch to heat them up a bit, but did not get them to hot, out of fear of melting/ deforming the aluminuim)

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2016 12:40 pm 
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Similar to what you did, I replaced mine with Allen head screws. You can tighten them down really well. I did get stainless. One season in, and they work well. My problem had been that I couldn't tighten them enough to hold the adjustment. When sailing, they used to pull out of the end to the stops, and that really slows down the boat.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2016 9:38 pm 
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Add lock and flat SS washers to your bolts if you don't already have them, also etch/ or mark both end adjusters, so that if either one comes loose. its just a quick line them back up, and tigthen the bolt(s). Those allen head bolts would work, just as good as what I use.


I had that issue come up once before.

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